Some people like all-inclusive breaks. They're safe, reliable and often cheaper than travelling independently. But do you really want to spend every day on the same sunlounger, eating from the same tired buffet every night, while a jaded steel pan band trills out the theme from Titanic? If you're the type who enjoys quantity rather than quality (does anyone really need TWO lobsters for dinner?), perhaps the sanitised paradise experience is right up your street, and it's there to be had in Antigua. But for the independent traveller, there's a much more authentic and magical experience to be had.
Hire a car, first of all. It will get you out of your own hotel or resort and let you visit great places like Nelson's Dockyard (a sweet little heritage port) and Shirley Heights. The latter's Sunday Night Jump-Up is legendary for hot reggae, cheap barbeque and lethal rum punch, but what the tourist guides won't tell you is that you need to arrive at about 8pm, when the cruise ship brigade filters away and the locals start to arrive. If you're lucky, Curtley Ambrose might even be playing in the house band (I kid you not).
Another not-to-be-missed experience is the Eco-tour, an all-day boat trip which takes you up to the unspoilt northeast part of the island. You might see hawksbill turtles or nesting baby pelicans, but you'll definitely see some of Antigua's most spectacular natural scenery, learn about its eco-systems, get the chance to snorkel on a coral reef through a rainbow of tropical fish, and taste the best rum punch on Antigua. Eli Fuller, who runs the tours, is a mine of information which he's keen to share, and his staff are helpful and enthusiastic.
Of course, if you're not chowing down each night on the all-inclusive "Caribbean-style" buffet, you can get out and experience the real thing. Try Cocos, a charming restaurant jutting out over Jolly Harbour , where the setting is romantic and the food is excellent. Coconut Grove is great for seafood (big breakfasts and cheap lunches!), and Papa Zouk's is about the only thing worth visiting St John (Antigua's rather gritty capital) for - a rum shop vibe, funky music, and delicious, reasonably priced seafood. Try the Carnival Platter and the stuffed clams - excellent.
Great places to stay? The Inn at English Harbour is very pretty, though not cheap - genteel, colonial country house vibe. Also pricey but fabulous is Carlisle Bay - basically a boutique hotel on the beach. We stayed here in July, and it's hard to put your finger on what makes it so wonderful - is it the acres of well-designed space, both in the public areas and in your room? The staff who will do anything for you, and make you feel so pampered and well looked after? The pretty, secluded beach where you'll be dive-bombed by pelicans as you take your morning swim? The gorgeous breakfasts? The ultra-chic feel of the whole place? It's all this, and more. But at the price, it ought to be.
Another lovely place to stay is the Copper and Lumber Store Hotel. Right in the historic Nelson's Dockyard, the rooms are charming, they have kitchenettes, and some are even suites. There's also a cheerful pub on-site, and a slew of local restaurants nearby.
Nightlife is good at any of the beach bars. Again, Coconut Grove makes a worthwhile stop, and OJs is great at sundown.
The downsides of independent travel in Antigua? Well, the roads are appalling, and there are hardly any roadsigns - take a good map. And when driving around the island, you can't so easily shut out the poverty of the people. But you'll see a side of island life that you'll never experience inside the locked gates of a resort, and perhaps gain some respect for these people who are living cheek-by-jowl with luxury, yet fill their buckets at a standpipe each morning. You might even find yourself, as we did, giving an impromptu lift to a couple of footballers late for their match, and chatting to them about the recent elections. It's real island life, and we wouldn't have missed it.
Give it a try. Antigua is beautiful, friendly and truly unforgettable - but if you never leave your resort, you'll only see a tiny fraction of what the place has to offer.
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