General: Austria

~ ~ One of the problems of going on holiday is you can never be 100% sure that the accommodation you have booked is going to live up to expectations.
The Internet has improved things, because now you can log on and check out your selected hotel or guesthouse before you actually part with any hard earned dosh. (Well, most of the time anyway)

~ ~ But even then you can be caught out, if the hotel is slightly less than ethical, ...
...different to the reality.
We got badly caught out in 2001, when a hotel we booked as part of a package holiday in Tuscany, Italy, turned out to be only slightly better than a pokey wee bedsitter.
So the mad cabbie was determined that the same mistake would not reoccur in 2002, on the family holiday to Kitzbuhel in the Austrian Tyrol.
We checked out all the travel agents, and eventually decided on Inghams, a UK based company. ... more

~ ~ One of the problems of going on holiday is you can never be 100% sure that the accommodation you have booked is going to live up to expectations.
The Internet has improved things, because now you can log on and check out your selected hotel or guesthouse before you actually part with any hard earned dosh. (Well, most of the time anyway)

~ ~ But even then you can be caught out, if the hotel is slightly less than ethical, and portrays itself online in a way that is entirely different to the reality.
We got badly caught out in 2001, when a hotel we booked as part of a package holiday in Tuscany, Italy, turned out to be only slightly better than a pokey wee bedsitter.
So the mad cabbie was determined that the same mistake would not reoccur in 2002, on the family holiday to Kitzbuhel in the Austrian Tyrol.
We checked out all the travel agents, and eventually decided on Inghams, a UK based company.

~ ~ Next up was to check out the different hotels, and after extensive and exhaustive investigation on the old WWW, we eventually plumped for a week’s holiday at a hotel called the Alpenhotel in Kitzbuhel.
Next on the agenda was an email to my very good Austrian friend, Herbert, (herbb here at Ciao) to find out if he could give me any further information.
He was more than helpful, (as he always is; thanks mate) although the directions he gave us for finding the hotel were slightly less than accurate. (He had us driving around the wrong end of the town. Heh, heh)

~ ~ Anyway, my concern was to prove unfounded, as the hotel turned out to be even better than we expected.
The Alpenhotel is located on the outskirts of the ski-resort town of Kitzbuhel. And what a location! It sits on the shores of Lake Schwarzsee, a very large freshwater lake, and is surrounded on all sides by the towering and majestic Austrian Alps.
It’s very easy to find, as Kitzbuhel has a “route” system of coloured discs to point you in the right direction. You simply follow the “blue” signs, or the “red” signs, and eventually you will arrive at your desired destination.

~ ~ We were driving a hired Renault Scenic diesel for the duration of our trip, and it took us about 3 hours to reach Kitzbuhel from Salzburg airport. This was leisurely driving, and we made the return journey (very early morning) in just over two hours.
I knew as soon as we approached the hotel up the half-mile driveway that it was going to be a cracker. It’s built in traditional Austrian style, with large balconies with overhanging roofs, and looks just like something that you see on all those Swiss and Austrian picture postcards.
There was plenty parking facilities the day we arrived, but I was later to discover that this wasn’t always the case. The rain was coming down in sheets, so the large leisure and swimming complex that is part of the hotel wasn’t too busy that particular day. (In fact, it was practically empty) But when the sun comes out (which it did for the rest of our week’s holiday, thank God!) it can get extremely busy and crowded. We later discovered that the hotel has a resident’s only car park, access to which is gained by using the electronic pass card that doubles as a key for your room. So no parking problems.

~ ~ Check in was smooth and easy, and after I had struggled into reception with our first suitcase, a porter was quickly despatched to help me with the rest of our luggage. As I had my tournament golf bag with me, as well as an array of suitcases, (my wife and wee lass DON’T believe in travelling lightly!) his assistance was very welcome. We were up on the second floor, (it has three floors) and there is a lift to make life easier.
Our room was wonderful. Entry was gained by using an electronic pass card, (one for each of us, although the wee lass kept losing hers) which automatically turned on the main lights in the room on entry. (And vice-versa on the way out)
The room was long and fairly narrow, but had everything you would need for a comfortable stay. A comfortable double bed for myself and my wife, and a fold down bed, which doubled as a couch during the day, for the wee lass. By the way, if you are feeling flush, then you can book one of their “suites”, which has separate sleeping and living quarters, and four-poster beds to boot!

~ ~ The separate bathroom and shower room was totally spotless, with two walls mirrored, and white tiles everywhere else. (Including the floor) A full range of complimentary toiletries was supplied (soap, shampoo, etc) and topped up on a daily basis. And the cubicle shower was efficient and powerful, with constant hot water day and night. (Have you ever noticed how you can sometimes get either scalded or turned into a human icicle in some hotels if someone in another room adjacent to yours turns on a tap?)
There was a large built in wardrobe, and plenty of drawer space for clothes and all our bits and pieces.
There was a direct dial telephone, but this was never used, (except for incoming calls or to ring room service) as I have discovered to my cost in the past just how expensive this can be. Instead I relied on my trusty old mobile (Nokia 6210) for making any calls. (Only about €60 extra on my monthly mobile bill, and we were ringing home to Ireland a couple of times a day at least!)
A wee portable TV in one corner, but the only English language station was Eurosport, which gets a bit wearing after a while, especially since they rarely show any golf these days. But the wee lass enjoyed the cartoons, and we got an English language film one night. (Subtitled in Austrian, heh, heh)
What was particularly nice was the large balcony, which had a table and four chairs. It had a lovely view out over the mountains, and got the sun in the early morning. We used it constantly for eating snacks, having a cuppa, and generally soaking up the sunshine. Another advantage was that I could slip out at anytime for a wee fag, without having to actually leave the room, as my wife is vehemently anti-smoking.
One drawback was that there was no kettle supplied for making your own cuppa, as seemingly this is considered a fire hazard (???) in Austria, and is illegal.
But we NEVER travel anywhere without our own wee portable electric kettle, so we weren’t too put out. (We hid it in a drawer during the day, heh, heh)

~ ~ We had a minor disaster our first night though!
The bedroom had no air-conditioning, which is probably not too much of a drawback most of the year, as Austria doesn’t have as hot a climate as some other European countries, especially in the Alpine region.
But it was still a lot hotter than we were used to at home in Ireland, and we like to sleep with a window open in the bedroom at all times.
So on our first night we threw open the balcony doors to give ourselves a bit of air.
I’m lying on the bed reading, look up at one of the overhead wall lights, and am confronted by about six million wee midges all over the place.
Arghhhh!! I hate bloody midges, so I do. So there was nothing else for it but to roll up an old newspaper and go into my exterminator mode! About an hour it took me before I had managed to get the unwanted plague down to manageable proportions! The Lord only knows what the chambermaids made of all the little black marks that were left on the walls the morning after.
We solved the problem after that by not opening the balcony doors until AFTER we had turned out the lights in the room, as that was what was attracting the little blighters.

~ ~ The rest of the hotel was a delight.
There was a small bar in the reception area, and loads of comfortable seating (couches and chairs) scattered around the place, as the main hall doubled as the bar and lounge. (Open plan) Prices in the bar seemed reasonable, but as we are all non-drinkers I can’t really comment on the price of alcohol. The prices for soft drinks and mineral water were about comparable with Ireland though, at around the €2 mark.
These were all put on our bill as extras, and we settled at the end of the week. You could either go up to the bar to get served, or wait for a waiter to come to your table. (tips obligatory, if you want fast service the next time)
At the front of the hotel, facing the lake, there are loads of wooden tables, (all with sun shades) where you can sit and have a drink. This also doubles as a dining area for non-residents during the day, and for people using the hotels swimming and leisure complex.
One of our evening meals during the week was an outside barbeque, and this was the dining area they used. A few long tables were set up for all the barbeque equipment, and the meal was cooked on the spot, and then served buffet style.
Totally delicious, and great fun.

~ ~ Talking about food, that leads me nicely to the hotel restaurant.
Our deal included breakfast and evening meal, and both were superb.
The restaurant is large and beautifully appointed, with old tables and chairs and gleaming cutlery, and is situated in a kind of large side room off the main reception and lounge area.
On our day of arrival we were met at the door by the proprietor, Anne Marie Hirschhuber, who personally greeted us and showed us to what was to be our own table for the duration of our stay. Sparkling white linen tablecloths, and personalised name tags (on china napkin holders) completed the personal touch that was prevalent throughout the whole time we stayed.
Anne Marie’s husband (I’ve forgotten his name off the top of my head) also doubles up as the chef, and the cuisine is absolutely top drawer, and simply couldn’t be faulted.
A four-course dinner every evening, with a choice of various dishes for each course, promptly served on immaculate tableware, with a waiter or waitress only covering about four tables each.
You were presented with a dinner menu each morning at breakfast, and simply ticked off what you wanted to eat that evening. The food was varied. There was always a traditional meat dish, (like steak or fish) and then a typically Austrian dish (like sausage) to choose from. The sweets were all home made, and again, totally scrumptious.

~ ~ Breakfast was a gastronomic experience in itself!
You could “load up” for the day with no problem, as there was a HUGE selection of different foods, all served from a self-service buffet.
There were about a dozen different varieties of bread, and as many different varieties of cold meats. Fruit by the basketful, and you could choose from a dozen cereals. And for the British and Irish visitors, they even had a grill where you could fry your morning rashers (yes, actual bacon!!) and eggs, and make yourself some toast.
The coffee was good and strong, just the way I like it, and came in a big pot, which there was no problem getting refilled.

~ ~ If swimming and lounging in the sun is your thing, then you were spoilt for choice.
The hotel is located right on Lake Schwarzsee, and full use is made of the amenity. A large building down by the lakeside doubles as a café (ground floor) serving light meals, snacks, and drinks, and as an annexe to the main hotel where you can rent a large chalet for family use.
Jutting out into the lake itself the hotel has built a series of wooden jetties, where you can hire a sun bed, (or take a free chair) and go for a swift dip in the lake itself. By the way, you’d want to make it a VERY quick dip, because the water is absolutely freezing, the lake being filled with melted snow from the surrounding Alps! Mind you, it didn’t seem to bother my wee lass, who was in and out of it constantly, and never even seemed to notice the temperature. But it was a wee bit on the chilly side for her old dad’s bones.
On the other side of the lake from the hotel is another leisure and swimming complex, where they have flues and slides, and where you can hire a rowing or motorboat, either for a leisurely trip around the lake, or to do a spot of fishing.
Talking about fish, I was astounded on our first day there to see a little girl throwing bread into the water. Further investigation revealed that not only was she feeding the plentiful ducks, but also some of the strangest looking fish I’ve ever seen! Big fat beggars they were, with big, rubbery Mick Jagger type lips, and they were coming up to the surface and practically begging for the bread. (I never did find out what they were called!)

~ ~ Other facilities at the hotel included a sauna, steam bath, (lovely) and a jacuzzi in the leisure centre.
The hotel ran a daily shuttle bus down to the town if required, and they have a wide selection of different push-bikes that you can borrow free of charge. (For residents) We used them on one occasion to visit the town but the wife and wee lass got tired, and I had to cycle back on my own (uphill, bah) to collect the car to go and fetch them. (Bloody chauffeur, so I am. I can’t even get away from it on holiday. Heh, heh)
The hotel has no actual Internet facilities, but they allowed me to use their own computer (in the reception area) on a couple of occasions to have a wee peek at my emails. (And my Ciao homepage, naturally) I wasn’t charged anything for this, which I thought was very generous.
By the way, the Austrian Tourist Board ranks the Alpenhotel as only three stars, but seemingly the only reason it lacks another star is that you automatically lose one if you don’t have an indoor swimming pool. It was certainly well up to what you would expect from a (good) 4-star hotel in the UK or Ireland, and a lot better than even some 5-star hotels I’ve frequented.

~ ~ OK. What will all this luxury cost you.
Well, we paid as part of a package, which came to just over €2,000 for the week, but obviously this included flights, car hire, and hotel.
I’ve investigated their homepage on the Web, (http://www.alpenhotel-kitzbuehel.at/index.htm) and prices start from around the €47.50 mark per night. This is in low season, and obviously they are more expensive at peak holiday times. Discounts are given for kids, (up to 80%) and it’s cheaper still to stay in one of their self-catering chalets.
But the prices vary so much depending on what time of the year you intend visiting, and what sort of accommodation you require, that the best thing I can advise is for you to visit their homepage yourself if you are interested.
In fact, if we were visiting again, I wouldn’t go on a package tour. Instead I would book a budget flight to Munich in Germany, hire a car separately at the airport and drive down to Kitzbuhel, and book the hotel direct via the Internet. I reckon I would save a good few hundred Euros this way.

~ ~ One last thing.
The Austrian people are VERY friendly and accommodating, and Anne Marie and her husband, who own the Alpenhotel, simply couldn’t do enough for you to make sure you enjoyed your holiday.
On the morning we were leaving, we had to be in the airport for a 7AM flight, which meant leaving the hotel at around 3AM.
When we opened our hotel door in the morning (well, the middle of the night) to leave, imagine our surprise when we discovered that she had left a packed breakfast for us to eat on the way. (With their compliments)
And we got a lovely Christmas card from them last year, with a wee bar of Austrian chocolate thrown in, wishing us well, and hoping we would come and stay with them again.
Where else would you get service like that, I ask you!

~ ~ This Austrian hotel comes with the highest possible recommendation from the mad cabbie.

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PS. If you are interested in reading about the town of Kitzbuhel itself, then both “Sexy Kay” and myself have written opinions about our stay there.

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PPS. I’ve just discovered that Ciao have “deactivated” the link they emailed me for this Category. (I requested it over a year ago) So I’ve posted it in “General – Austria” until I can get Ciao to place it properly for me.

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Copyright KenJ October 2003

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