General: Canary Islands

Think of the Canary Islands, and what do they say to you? English breakfasts served all day, large groups of sunburnt English chavs wearing too little and drinking too much, timeshare touts and mass tourism? And yes, it's true, far too many of the larger resorts on the Canary Islands are buried under a mass of towering hotel blocks, KFC signs and loud flashing neon lighting. However, it's not all bad. What you do have is almost year round sunshine ...
...Large swathes of the Canary Islands remain charming and well worth a visit. My first visit to the Canary Islands was back in 1981, and since then I have visited all three of the main islands (Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote) more times than I can count on both hands. I've stayed in some of major built up resorts of the islands, as well as the quieter calmer areas, and all in all, I thoroughly recommend any or all of the islands as a year round ... more

Think of the Canary Islands, and what do they say to you? English breakfasts served all day, large groups of sunburnt English chavs wearing too little and drinking too much, timeshare touts and mass tourism? And yes, it's true, far too many of the larger resorts on the Canary Islands are buried under a mass of towering hotel blocks, KFC signs and loud flashing neon lighting. However, it's not all bad. What you do have is almost year round sunshine located only 4 hours away from cold and draughty Blighty. Large swathes of the Canary Islands remain charming and well worth a visit. My first visit to the Canary Islands was back in 1981, and since then I have visited all three of the main islands (Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote) more times than I can count on both hands. I've stayed in some of major built up resorts of the islands, as well as the quieter calmer areas, and all in all, I thoroughly recommend any or all of the islands as a year round resort well worth visiting.

~~ HISTORY ~~
The Canary Islands are situated in the Atlantic Ocean, south west of Spain and north-west of Africa (just by Morocco). Seven islands make up the Canary Islands archipelago. All of them are the tips of hundreds of volcanoes that first erupted from the Atlantic 14 million years ago. Originally inhabited by Guanches, Spanish explorers discovered and claimed the islands for Spain back in the 14th/15th centuries. Nowadays, the islands are home to a population of around 1.84 million and remain part of Spain. The Canaries are divided in two main provinces:- The Western Islands are known as the province of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and are made up of the islands of Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro and La Gomera. Tenerife is the capital and the biggest of the four. The remaining three islands are small and mostly undeveloped as regards tourism. The Eastern Islands are known as the province of Las Palmas and are made up of Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. Gran Canaria is the largest and the capital, Lanzarote is known for its volcanic appearance and Fuerteventura for its golden beaches.

~~ GETTING THERE ~~
All seven of the islands have airports. However, most of the air traffic goes to either Gran Canaria, Tenerife and Lanzarote. You can fly to the Canaries from most European cities, with or without stopovers in Spain. Some airlines do daily scheduled flights to the bigger islands, but you can usually pick up something cheaper by looking for a charter flight. A direct flight from the UK will set you back around anything from £120 upwards, dependent on the time of year. In the last couple of years, some of the smaller regional airports have started selling direct flights to the Canaries, so you are really spoilt for choice, and are not just limited to flights from the bigger airports. It's really not worth me listing any tour operators or airlines that specialize in the Canaries in this review, as all the major ones operate packages and flights there, all at competitive prices.

~~ WEATHER ~~
The weather in the Canaries is nearly always sunny - it's like an eternal springtime. The average monthly temperatures are from 18ºC to 24º C. Temperatures remain high throughout the winter as well as the summer. It does, of course, get cooler in the winter, but compared to temperatures back home, it's no contest. The resorts are busy all year, but high season in the Canaries is usually around Christmas time, and in January and February. You can sunbath and swim in the sea all year round. You will experience the occasional tropical rainstorm - but they tend to go as quickly as they come.

~~ CURRENCY/SHOPPING ~~
Although the official language of the Canary Islands is Spanish, English and all the other major European languages are well catered for. The currency here is the Euro, but all the major credit cards are widely accepted in most shops and restaurants. You can even use your UK bank cash point card in some of the Spanish banks. All the islands remain tax free so you can pick up really cheap cigarettes and booze. When I first used to go to the Canary Islands you could buy 200 Benson & Hedges for under £10. Nowadays, they are closer to £16, but that's still a huge saving compared to the UK. Don't leave it until you get to the airports, bottles of quality spirits and liqueurs are much cheaper purchased in the supermarkets throughout the islands. Alcohol, cigarettes, cameras, perfumes, watches and electrical goods are all very reasonably priced in the Canaries - much cheaper than you'd pay at home.

~~ FOOD & DRINK ~~
The food on all the Canary Islands is cheap and plentiful; cooking is simple but tasty. It's not unusual to be presented with an enormous heavy book like menu with choices listed in 9 or 10 languages. This often makes amusing reading as some the translations are rather colloquial. And how is it the waiters always know what nationality you are before you've even spoken? They always hand me the menu turned to the English section…..without fail. And there's me thinking I've dressed with enough European panache to confound them….must be my partner's lobster tan and beer belly.

The cuisine of Canary Islands combines traditional Spanish recipes with African and Latin-American influences. Most menus offer a huge amount of choice, but with the usual Spanish favourites like gazpacho (cold tomato soup), paella and tapas. There is plenty of fresh seafood and fish on offer caught locally off the islands. Do try the gambas, huge king prawns panfried in garlic - they're delicious and half the price you'd pay elsewhere (6 or 8 huge juicy king prawns for under £10). Lots of dishes are served with a local speciality called papas arrugadas or Canarian potatoes. These are small potatoes still in their skins boiled in heavily salted water and served with two types of mojo sauce - a milder green sauce blended from garlic, coriander and vinegar and the fierier red sauce of oil, garlic, chili-peppers and paprika. The potatoes do look a bit unappetizing, as they are rather small and wrinkled and very salty to taste, but they are definitely worth a try. Other local specialities include roast baby goat. Small and sweet tasting bananas are readily available, as there are a good few banana plantations on the islands. Banana and other flavoured liqueurs are often served to you as a complimentary aperitif or liqueur at many restaurants as a thank you from the proprietor for dining with them. Prices are very reasonable - a delicious dinner with starters, main courses and drinks will cost you less than £20 to £30 for two. And, of course, if you don't like foreign food, there are the legions of fish and chip shops, outlets serving all day English breakfasts, Sunday roasts, Kentucky Fried Chicken and those god awful twin golden arches that signify yet another McDonalds has landed.

Although there are many local wines and beers, all the restaurants serve huge ranges of the better known wines, beers and spirits all at extremely reasonable prices and overly generous measures (optic measurements are alien to most venues and a quadruple brandy is a "usual" measure). Oh and don't forget to try the Sangria - red wine, brandy and lemonade served with pieces of fruit and ice in a large jug. It doesn't taste particularly alcoholic, but believe you me it is.

~~~ THE ISLANDS & THEIR MAIN ATTRACTIONS ~~~

~ TENERIFE ~
It's said of Tenerife "for sun, sea, pub and club - go to the south; for green, scene, Spain and rain, go to the north". This is the largest of the Canary Islands, and the second most popular tourist destination of all of them. The most striking feature of Tenerife is the huge dormant volcano called El Teide, which can be viewed from almost anywhere on the island. To the north, the island is more lush and damp, and home to the popular resorts of Puerto de la Cruz and Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Puerto de la Cruz is the oldest resort on Tenerife and has more character and prettier buildings. To the south, the island is a lot more built up with lots of high rise buildings, nightclubs and restaurants. The most popular southern resort is Playa de las Americas, and it is teaming with nightclubs, high rise hotels and apartments, as well as the ubiquitous KFC and McDonalds signage. Close on it's heels is the newer resort of Los Cristianos….its memories of being a quiet and sleepy fishing village firmly banished to the pages of history. Both of these resorts are loud, brash and overcrowded. Playa de la Americas is rather seedy and used looking in places - it's seen better days to be honest. Too many late night tourists heaving their dinners and Malibu cocktails into its streets and beaches. Los Cristianos is in the process of going the same way, but everything there is still newer and shinier, so it doesn't look as run down and seedy yet. However, if it's sunshine you are after, then the south of Tenerife is your best bet. To avoid nightclubs and noise pollution, quieter resorts can be found further up the coast in Los Gigantes/Puerto de Santiago (my favourite bit of the island and a popular destination for ex pats moving out to the sun). Other popular and developing areas are situated in Golf del Sur/Costa Del Silencio (NB: not very silent as very near the airport) or Callao Salvaje.

~~~ Worth a visit ~~~
[1] Parque Nacional del Teide - Home to Mount Teide (see photo below), a dormant volcano set in a lunar looking landscape. A full day out as it involves a steep climb up to the park by car or coach. Once in the park you can take an eight minute cable car ride almost to the summit of Mount Teide (the peak is 3,718m above sea level). A climb on foot will take closer to four hours…so no contest really. Beware though, the queues for the cable car are horrendous, especially at peak season, and it's not cheap (€20 for adults). Any variations in weather or the slightest hint of wind and the cable car stops running.

[2] The Dragon Tree at Icod de los Vinos - This tree is allegedly the oldest tree in the world (see photo below), and rumoured to have magical powers. Icod de los Vinos is a quietish town with Spanish colonial style buildings and is well known for its wine production (which can be tasted and purchased at various outlets).

~ LA PALMA ~ LA GOMERA ~ EL HIERRO ~
All three islands are largely undeveloped with no large resorts; there is little organised entertainment or sightseeing. They are very mountainous, so they are particularly popular with ramblers and lovers of wildlife. They do all have hotels, but few sandy beaches. They are best reached by ferry, hydrofoil or by flights from the larger Canary Islands. La Gomera is best known for its strange and ancient whistling language known as El Silbo. El Hierro is the smallest of the Canary Islands and La Palma is the worlds' steepest island.

~ GRAN CANARIA ~
This is the most popular Canary Island tourism wise, with over 3 million holiday makers visiting its shores every year. Playa del Inglés is the most popular resort, again incredibly built up with high rise hotels and restaurants. Maspalomas is famed for its long golden beaches and lovely sand dunes. Quieter resorts can be found at Mogan or Puerto Rico. All the resorts have golden sandy beaches, making them more popular with beach lovers than the blacker sands of resorts in Tenerife and Lanzarote.

~~~ Worth a visit ~~~
[1] Teror - A village which "seems to be floating in the air" as it is located at 575 meters above sea level and surrounded by breath-taking mountain ranges. Definitely worth a visit with your camera.

~ LANZAROTE ~
My favourite of all the Canary Islands, although some complain it is too windy here. This island is dominated by a mainly volcanic landscape which is virtually treeless. The weather is warmer and drier than on some of the other islands. Despite, the stark landscape, Lanzarote is the prettiest of the islands. It is dominated by unusual sculptures and tastefully decorated white houses with bright green paintwork. The islanders pride themselves on the way their island has been preserved from the worst aspects of tourism. There are few high rise buildings and garish billboards. The influence of César Manrique (1920-1992) is felt throughout the island. He was an island born artist who campaigned tirelessly for an environmentally friendly development of the island, which resulted in strict building height limits and colour restrictions. The main resort is Puerto del Carmen, and more than 60% of tourists to Lanzarote stay here. It is quite built up, but the lack of high rise development make it seem less oppressive and dense. Other popular resorts are Costa Teguise, which is newer, smarter and less developed than Puerto del Carmen. A much quieter resort can be found in the south at Playa Blanca, and this is where I like to stay when I go to Lanzarote. There are a nice selection of restaurants and shops, but it lacks nightlife thus making it a much quieter resort. If you hire a four wheel drive vehicle, you can drive a short distance (4 miles) to the golden beaches of Playa Papagayo, where swimsuits are optional.

~~~ Worth a visit ~~~
[1] Parque Nacional de Timanfaya (Cost €8 per person)
Between 1730-36 Lanzarote suffered a number of volcanic eruptions resulting in surrounding villages being buried under thick black lava. Nowadays, this entire area has been given over to parkland (Parque Nacional de Timanfaya), and it's well worth a visit. The volcanic landscape is stark and desolate and winds up at the Montanas del Fuego (Fire mountains), which are still hot enough in the core to ignite a branch. The guides will demonstrate that the volcano is not extinct, just dormant, by shoving a branch into a crevice and shortly holding the flaming stick aloft. Similarly, water poured into a sunken pipe results in a scorching jet of steam. If you're mad enough, you can also take a 15 minute ride up the side of the old volcano on a camel.

[2] La Cueva de los Verdes (Cost €8 per person) and nearby Los Jameos del Agua (Cost €8 per person)
La Cueva de los Verdes (Green caves) are a series of caves formed from a tube of solidified lava stretching 4 miles underground. Guided tours are a must as they are quite beautiful. Nearby is Los Jameos del Agua, which is again a series of old lava caves which were landscaped by César Manrique into what must be one of the most unusual underground developments in the world. The complex contains a restaurant, nightclub and swimming pool. There is also a shallow seawater lagoon which is home to a rare species of blind white crab, which half glow in the dim lighting.

[3] Fundacion César Manrique (Cost €5 per person)
The former home of the artist is well worth a visit as his house is modelled around five lava caves, all decorated with his own and other contemporary pieces of artwork from artists like Picasso and Guerrero. A stunning and rather clever piece of architecture.

~ FUERTEVENTURA ~
This island lies just 60 miles off the coast of Morocco. It's the second largest of the Canary Islands, but less developed than the other islands in the eastern province. It's home to over 150 golden sandy beaches, and incredibly popular with the windsurfing fraternity. The most popular resorts are Corralejo and Caleta de Fuste.

~~ RECOMMENDATION ~~
The Canary Islands offer something for everyone. There are legions of hotels, private villas and self catering apartments to choose from - accommodation to suit every budget. Car or bike hire are easily arranged at any of the resorts on all the islands, plus the larger ones have regular and well run bus services. Year round sunshine, cheap "duty frees" and only 4 or so hours away from England. The busier resorts are teaming with nightlife and every conceivable type of restaurant. However, there are quieter areas to spend a couple of weeks soaking up the sun, enjoying the scenery and just relaxing. My favourite island is Lanzarote, for sheer individualism and quaintness, but all of the islands offer something different. And all this, only four hours away by plane. Recommended.

~~ MORE INFORMATION ~~
Spanish Tourist Office in UK
PO Box 4009
London
W1A 6NB

Tel: 0207-486-8077

~~ WEBSITES ~~
www.in-spain.info/spain-regions/canary-islands.htm
www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g187466-Canary_Islands-Vacations.html
www.re d2000.com/spain/canarias/ 

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