Stunning scenery and enough adventure to last a lifetime
Disadvantages:
Huge distances and the developing transport system
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
As a volunteer English teacher in the very depths of Patgonia here I managed to explore the region fully, experiencing the culture and seeing the lives that enfolded before me each day. It was only by spending so long in this beautiful region that I fully discovered what Chilean Patagonia, let alone the rest of Chile, was about. As it is such a huge country that I can only begin to describe the beauty of this part of the country and what amazing things there are to do here. I start my review with Coyhaique, the capital of the XI Region, about half way from between Santiago and the end of the world, Tierra del Fuego...
Coyhaique: this town, of population 40,000, is a bustling centre of all activities in the XI Region. With easy access from Santiago Airport to Balmaceda Airport (1 hour drive - taxi buses are cheap and easy to find in the airport), Coyhaique is experiencing the tourist explosion. Its advantages are more than obvious:
- a whole host of different tourist shopping areas - a huge selection of restaurants, each with their 'menu del dia', a cheaper option for travellers on a budget - a selection of bars and clubs for the willing traveller - information kiosks on adventure tours to nearby areas - up-to-date technology (internet and phone access is becoming cheaper by the day!!!) - a friendly and welcoming people that genuinely care about your wellbeing
This town is often used as the gateway to other towns further south, and as a base for many adventure expeditions. The great Rivers Simpson and Baker provide numerous opportunities for excellent rafting (rapids up to Class IV can be found), while the abundance of national parks, each no more than an hours drive from the town centre, host hundreds of beautiful, scenic walking trails. The scenery is really so impressive, and cannot be done true justice in words - oftentimes gushing rivers and waterfalls are juxtaposed with the great expanse of 'cordilleras' (mountain ranges) that soar up to 4000m into the sky. Each Park has an information centre for people to pick up trail guides, and the entry is always cheap (this provides extra funding in order to maintain the natural beauty). The difficulty is always varied, so that half-day to week-long treks can be found. For the more intrepid explorer, there are also numerous climbing routes (although other routes up volcanoes in different areas are often even more spectacular).
Hot Springs: 2 hours drive north of Coyhaique brings you to Puyhapei natural hot springs, an impressive selction of natural hot baths in a luxurious hotel that is a definite must-see. Off-peak times are often quieter, and when cheaper deals are available. This is one of the few luxurious places in southern Chile: the hotel is beautifully fitted out, and its baths are all carved out of the natural rocks. Very romantic!!
Horse Trekking: the Patagonian 'caballo' is more of a working horse than its european coutnerpart, but locals are always willing to provide their horses (and often guides) to see various parts of the surroundings. (Although established companies are often a safer way to ensure a better trip.) Some companies offer beginners classes before you set off into the mountains, although the treks are never usually too difficult for beginners.
Skiing: Chile is rapidly becoming the source of summer skiing for us Brits! Some resorts are not as developed as European ones at the moment, but watch this space...! I'm sure within the next few years most of Chile's ski resorts will be packed with tourists! Look into Argentinian resorts as well in this region of Patagonia (although I never managed to visit any).
Carretera Austral: this is the oftentimes dirt road that leads south from Coyhaique, taking you to the very depths of Patagonia. The towns Cerro Castillo and Puerto Ibañez are the two that you encounter first. Cerro Castillo (pop. 300) is a beautiful town at the foot of the mountain Castillo, which can also be climbed. Puerto Ibañez (pop. 500 - also at the foot of another climbable mountain) is the gateway to southern Chile: this is where the boat departs to cross Lake General Carrera, the second biggest lake in South America. The towns are quiet, but persistance always finds suitable family-run residences and hostals that provide an excellent stay. All the locals are extremely welcoming.
Transport: The roads around Patagonia are generally pretty dire - a 'main' road can often be no more than a gravel track. 4x4 and high clearance cars are therefore essential if travelling by car in this region. Often renting a car is the best way to explore the best hidden trreasures, allowing you to travel slightly further away from the baten track. In terms of public transport, Chileans are always willing to alter bus shedules to fit in with other travellers!! Buses are generally well fitted out, run to schedule and cost about 1000 pesos for every hour of travelling. Trains are nonexistant in the south of chile. Ferries are often used as a good alternative, although some can become pricey, especially for foreign travellers in cars.
Cost: Chile is probably the most expensive South American country, although it is still cheap compared to most of Europe. In Patagonia, I survived on about 10 to 20 pounds a day, depending on where I stayed. There are always cheaper hostals or camping sites available. Food is a good bargain too: the 'menu del dia' in restauarants at luch times is an excellent alternative (a set 3 course meal for a fraction of the price).
Well, all that's left is for you budding travellers to go and explore!! Patagonia really is a great source of beauty and adventure, in pretty much every part that can be visited! I can't wait to return!!
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