I've been away from civilisation for a LONG time and had some of the greatest experiences of my life...
I've been away from civilisation for a LONG time and had some of the greatest experiences of my life travelling in Ecuador. Now, finally, I'm back on the internet.
Member since:02.06.2002
Reviews:16
Members who trust:5
Cyprus is one of the very few countries in the world that is between two continents - in this case, Europe and Asia. For thousands of years this island in the eastern Mediterranean has absorbed influences from many different cultures, from Hellenic to Byzantine. With such a rich history, blue skies, varied scenery and large choice of resorts, it's no wonder that this is such a popular destination for holidaymakers.
During our introduction meeting with our rep, she said something to us that I think pretty much sums up holidaying in Cyprus. 'If all you want to do is lie around all day and sunbathe, then you should save yourself two hours’ flight and go to Spain.' Why was she telling us this? Because quite frankly it's absolutely true - Cypriot culture is so rich, and there's so much to see, that there is no point coming to the island if you're not going to have enough respect to get to know the place rather than just its sunloungers.
Of course, everyone needs to relax on holiday! But we also managed to pack so much into our two weeks here that we all agreed (my family and our friends) it was one of the best holidays we'd had in a long time. This is a VERY long opinion but then this is an island that deserves to have a lot written about it. I hope it’s helpful to anyone going there or trying to decide where to go!
AT A GLANCE
Language: Greek Currency: Cypriot Pounds Flight time: About 4 and a half hours from the UK Time difference: 2 hours ahead of British Summer Time
INTRODUCTION
Firstly, a little background information. Not only does Cyprus have a proud ancient history etc. etc., but it has a more tragic modern one that it is essential for visitors to be aware of. It's all very complicated, and much I don't know or don't understand, but I'll try to explain what I do. Due to its position, Cyprus has always been inhabited by both Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots, with different cultures and religions. These groups had always co-existed very amicably. Cyprus was part of Britain's colonial empire from the 19th Century until the mid 20th Century, after Britain did its usual unscrupulous thing when it came to taking over other people's countries. After a fight for independence supported by the Cypriot church, the island was finally recognised as its own country, led by one of the leaders of the church. However, the terms of the agreement Britain laid out were unworkable, and felt by the Greek Cypriots to give too much power to the Turkish minority. Hard feelings between the ethnic groups arose, and after a complicated political struggle, including the military junta-ruled Greece pledging to help Greek Cypriots fight for their rights, Turkey launched two invasions. The first was unsuccessful, but the second succeeded in capturing the Northern 33% of the island. The Turkish army set about destroying all traces of the Greek culture, including churches and monasteries, and the war created thousands of refugees, forced to flee to either the north or the south depending on their ethnicity. Today the border is patrolled by the UN, and Turkey is still the only country in the world to recognise the northern Turkish
state of Cyprus.
It is very important for visitors to know about this, as the situation is a very delicate one especially for older Cypriots. A few tips - never call that sweet gooey stuff 'Turkish delight', always Greek/Cypriot delight. And never refer to the dividing line as 'the border' in front of Greek Cypriots, as this implies you recognise the rule of the Turks in the north. Call it 'the green line' or 'the buffer zone' instead. Since the invasion, tourism has been practically non-existant in the north. While it is staging a gradual comeback, almost all brochures you will see will only consider the southern half as a potential destination. Since this is the part I visited, this is what my opinion is really about.
GENERAL OVERVIEW
Phew, serious stuff! So why would you want to go to such a troubled country in the first place? Well, the weather is just that little bit more summery than Southend, that's for sure. The sea is very warm and clear, the interior has a wide variety of scenery, and there are many chances to see native wildlife, the food is delicious and excellent value for money and the people are wonderfully friendly and helpful. There are literally hundreds of beautiful churches and monasteries to visit, ancient ruins and old towns and cities. Of course, there is also the nightlife! Ayia Napa needs no introduction save to say that if you want traditional commercial clubs (house, garage, etc.) it's the place to go and has possibly the best beach on the island. This is really NOT my domain though so I can't truthfully write any more on the subject.
WEATHER
Hot! Very, very hot. I visited in August, and the land is as dry as a bone. It’s usually too hot to even walk very far, apart from in the mountains. If I went again, I would go in spring, when it is warm, but not too hot to do things. The sea is pleasantly warm almost all year round, and apart from in the winter months it hardly ever rains.
Paphos - the ancient capital situated in the south- west. Most of the old town is a World Heritage Site, and there is a beautiful harbour - packed with things to see and do. The 'tourist area' as the signs call it, was awful from what we saw - all Irish pubs and places advertising full English breakfasts and Eastenders every Sunday. Not that I hate these things especially and I know that people like their creature comforts, but to come all this way to watch soaps and eat the food you would at home? It seems a little crazy to me. I'm sure the nightlife here is very busy though, with lots of pubs, bars and clubs. The apartments and hotels are all very closely packed in the town - cramped even - but stretching out along the coast are more spacious complexes. Good if you want to be in the heart of things and with some taste of the real Cyprus, but very, very tourist-orientated. There is also a waterpark nearby.
Ayia Napa - right on the east coast of the island, I didn't visit here, so I can't say much, except that there is a new waterpark in the area and that if you don't like early nights this is probably the place for you! While the more commercial side of the clubbing world is very well-represented here, from what I've heard the more cutting-edge fashions take a little longer to take hold out here, which is fair enough, so don't go expecting the electro-disco-indie-NRR-no/new-wave type stuff that London and New York are going crazy for.
Protaras - Again, I didn't visit here, but it has award-winning beaches, is not far from Ayia Napa and boats Cyprus' oldest fig tree! (Wowee...) Apparently very lively in high season.
Limassol - now Cyprus' major port, in the south of the island, Limassol is a very large resort with lots of attractions for families. Again it would be too tourist orientated for me, but that's just personal preference. All the cruise ships seem to arrive and leave from here, so if you go on a cruise you'll see it that way. (Short cruises are available to Egypt and the Holy Land by many tour operators, although sadly due to the Middle East situation I would stick to Egypt at the moment.)
Polis/Latchi - in the north of Cyprus, this is where I stayed. (The two towns are so close as to be practically one.) The mountains of the interior keep this resort out of easy access to tourists from the two airports in the south or east, although it's not exactly difficult to get to - there just isn't a VERY major road there. Consequently this is a comparatively small and personal resort. There are more than enough restaurants and bars, but they are more traditional than in the larger resorts. The beaches are decent enough, but nothing special. The people are very friendly here, and all the accomodation is relatively small and often family-owned. However, if you happen to be stinking rich, there is one of the world’s most luxurious hotels along the coast here, where rock stars and Hollywood stars come to play. Obviously, we considered staying here, but in the end we didn’t decide on it and took some 3* apartments instead…!
Nicosia – not really a resort, but the capital city – the last divided capital in the world. We didn’t actually go here, sadly, but I’m sure it would be a real experience. The shopping must be good as well! You can cross the border into the occupied territory if you take your passport with you – just make sure you return at the designated time. This would give you the chance to see some of the Turkish culture, as well as the Greek, and get a feel for a proper Cypriot city.
MAJOR ATTRACTIONS
As the mythical birthplace of the Greek Goddess of love, beauty and fertility, Aphrodite, the island has at least two major attractions related to this myth. First there is the birthplace of the goddess (from the foam of the waves) near Paphos. If you swim around the rock 3 times anti-clockwise at midnight under a full moon in your birthday suit, it is said to give you eternal beauty. No, I didn't try it - nothing could induce me to suffer that much for my looks! Then there are the Baths of Aphrodite near to Polis where the goddess was supposed to have bathed to maintain her beauty. Again, you are supposed to be able to do the same (it requires you to be naked again - what IS it with these people?!) if you swim there at night, but that's officially prohibited.
Paphos has a million and one things to see, but I would especially recommend these next few attractions. The Tombs of the Kings is the massive cemetery of the important in society in ancient Cypriot culture (but not actually the royal family, funnily enough). Elaborate tombs have been carved out of the rocks, with pillars, wells, stepped entrances and burial shafts. They are fascinating to look round, especially since you are free simply to clamber in and out of the courtyards and passages as you please (play at being Indiana Jones? Me? Never…) Also, the World Heritage enclosure has stunning mosaics, villas and temples spread over a vast area, so allow yourself plenty of time there.
The Troodos Mountains are such a welcome change from the stifling summer heat on the coasts, and they remain fairly green all year round. They are covered in forest and are incredibly beautiful. Hidden here are tiny hilltop villages, ancient churches, shrines and fortresses and a lot of wildlife if you come at the right time! Kykkos Monastery is the most famous, wealthy and powerful on the island, and that is to be found here, too. The Cypriot church is basically Greek Orthodox, and in the Orthodox religion great veneration is given to paintings of Jesus, the Virgin and the saints by specially trained masters of the arts. These ‘icons’ line the front of churches, and the congregation/those stopping by will queue to kiss each picture in turn, crossing themselves as they do so. Kykkos’ claim to fame is its possession of an icon of the Mother of God said to have been painted by Saint Luke from life. You can see it here, but it is covered with a velvet cloth. An old Cypriot man just in front of me in the line explained in hushed terms that the picture is so holy that you cannot look upon it. Those who try to lift the cloth – he looked grim, and made a motion of someone’s arm being chopped off. Apparently if you touch it, your arm will simply drop off. Whether you believe this or not, it is absolutely fascinating to wonder at, and the church itself is a riot of colour and wealth, decorated with over 3 tonnes of gold.
I forgot to add this at first, but make sure you are suitably dressed when visiting any religious establishments. This means covering your knees and shoulders. In some places if you don't you will just get disapproving looks, but in Kykkos you will be prevented from entering by the security guards, so bring something to put on over your normal clothes to make sure you don't waste your time having to hire clothes from the stall nearby.
If you want to go to Kykkos or any other mountain site, there are many excursions, or you could hire a car and drive there at your own pace (much recommended). However a proper tour of the mountains is good in addition to this, as you can take in the scenery without worrying about driving over a 500 ft cliff on a dirt track! (We got pretty lost when we tried to find our own way there – the maps are very unreliable due to the green line running through the mountains, meaning that the military keep a lot of things secret.) If you plan your route properly, along the more main roads, you ought to be fine. Take a tip from me – don’t attempt to do 3 hours of off-roading in a Peugeot 306!
BEACHES
The best beaches on the island are in the south, where natural sand is found. In the north the beaches are quite thin and shingly. On the west coast, Coral Bay is an artificial man-made beach that is great for families with a wide variety of watersports. It does get very busy though, so arrive early! Lara Bay is a beach especially reserved for the endangered turtles, so no sunbathing here! If you’re lucky, you might see some eggs hatching if you visit on a night with a full or nearly full moon (the babies follow the moonlight to the water).
FOOD
Cypriot food is basically Greek food, and it is wonderful. Kebabs are a favourite, but make sure you try as much as possible! Slow-cooked, casserole-like meat dishes are the best things we discovered, as well as home-made, herb-flavoured sausages with a name I’m afraid I've forgotten! The Greek dips you’d usually find in a supermarket are popular here too, but much, much tastier here than the imitations you get at home! The best thing to do it to have a meze on one of your first nights. This incorporates starters and main courses in a huge series of traditional dishes shared between however many people you want. It gives you a chance to try everything, and you can always leave something you don’t like. As there are usually upwards of 8 courses, always order for one less person than you actually need to save wasting food. You can have a 3-course meal for around CP£8 (about Sterling £8-10). It’s well worth exploring and finding small, local tavernas in the little villages – we had a fantastic meal with three huge courses for CP£35 (about Sterling £35-40) for 7 people! Any restaurant near the coast will offer a great range of seafood dishes.
THE PEOPLE
You'll find that the Cypriot people are so friendly, and many of them speak near-perfect English. They will often have children in England, or have studied there, or have family there, or something, since Cyprus still seems to have strong links with Britain. If you can, talk to someone about the war, as it's so interesting to get a real perspective on the issues. Don't bring it up too quickly though, as it is a sensitive subject.
To sum up, this is a brilliant destination for families, couples, singles, friends…everyone! If you want beautiful beaches and scenery, then you can find it here. If you want a good dose of culture, you can find it here. If you love shopping, there’s plenty to be found. If you’re a gourmet, your taste buds will thank you for your visit. There is something for everyone on this island, despite the many problems it has encountered in its past and even now.
I definitely want to live in Cyprus for a while, although not permanently because I'm planning on moving to Hong Kong! Fantastic review. xx
danzo 26.03.2004 21:29
i lived in cyprus for 2 years and i loved it. it was the best place in the world.
danni
xxx
thebattler 08.12.2003 22:44
This review gave me a view of all the key places in cyprus, plus handy hints about avoiding upsetting the locals with certain conversation topics. The review is balanced as it describes both the touristy and more cultured aspects and is clear about the downpoints of certain areas.
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