General: Ecuador

This is my first review....please be gentle with me!

How am I qualified to review Ecuador? I spent over 4 fantastic months there in 2004 travelling and doing voluntary work and 1 month there in March/April 2005 when I got married there and now have a beautiful Ecuadorian wife! OK, maybe that makes me a little biased, but I can't wait to go back there for a month in Jan 2006...there is so much to see and do. Obviously I can't review ...
...book, but I'l try and cover the parts that maybe concern first time travellers to Ecuador and a little more.

Ecuador was my first taste of South America and it has given me the desire to know more and more. In such a tiny country there is so much to see and experience that in all honesty 6 months would not be enough to do everything and really experience the culture. I suppose the general culture could be described as slightly crazy, ... more

This is my first review....please be gentle with me!

How am I qualified to review Ecuador? I spent over 4 fantastic months there in 2004 travelling and doing voluntary work and 1 month there in March/April 2005 when I got married there and now have a beautiful Ecuadorian wife! OK, maybe that makes me a little biased, but I can't wait to go back there for a month in Jan 2006...there is so much to see and do. Obviously I can't review every little detail or I will end up writing a book, but I'l try and cover the parts that maybe concern first time travellers to Ecuador and a little more.

Ecuador was my first taste of South America and it has given me the desire to know more and more. In such a tiny country there is so much to see and experience that in all honesty 6 months would not be enough to do everything and really experience the culture. I suppose the general culture could be described as slightly crazy, but in a friendly way. This country is generally as safe as any other country you travel too as long as you are careful with your belongings and sensible as a traveller. For example, if you advertise to the world you are rich with jewellery hanging off every part of your body then you will unfortunately make yourself a target. If you dress down a little and don't carry valuables unless really necessary you should not have any problems. Always be aware of where your valuables are on your person and be aware of those around you. In crowded areas tourists are a target (this applies to almost any country) so if you are carrying a bag, hold it in front of you, do not attach it to your back and presume it will be OK. Petty thieves are adept at making a quick steal using a small cut in your back and taking what they can. Also, I would always advise that you get yourself clued up about which areas are safe and at what time of day to avoid areas. The lonely planet and rough guide books are usually the best reference places if you don't know anyone who has been (or you can always contact me!). And do read these before you travel! They will also give you some information re the main attractions, but there is always more to see than that. Really, if you would like further advice or information from someone who has experienced much of Ecuador then don't be afraid to contact me, I will help all I can as I have a lot of enthusiasm for the country!

The Country:
It boasts the highest biodiversity per square metre than any other country, or so I was told, due to the fact it is located on the Equator (i.e. Ecuador) and that is has three distinct regions to it...The low-lying coastal areas, the Andes and Andean valley, and the gateway to the Amazon...the rainforest (la selva) which starts in the east of Ecuador. It really is incredible the number and variety of species this country has and if you are interested in such things what a place to visit....and of course, lest we forget, Ecuador boasts the uniquely beautiful Galapagos Islands. All of these regions are completely different and if you have the time try and spend some time in each one. Although in general Ecuador is a very cheap country to visit and stay in, the Galapagos are the exception. They are a national park and therefore you have to pay a fee of $100 (at last count) to enter. Also the all-inclusive boat trips and flights will generally set you back at least $1000 so if this is a place you want to see, be financially prepared...but in saying that it will be an excursion that you will NEVER forget. One point to note about the Andes. They are very high in altitude...most of the developed portion of the countryis located in this Andean region...and you will feel affected by the lack of oxygen to some extent. you are likely to need a couple of days to adjust yourself so you should take it very easy and certainly not drink alcohol if you can avoid it.

The Tourist Attractions:
Well, apart from the Galapagos, I would recommend you at least visit the following to experience the best of Ecuador
- Otavalo (an Indian market...already reviewed on Ciao) where you can haggle for traditional and fun clothing and products. They expect you to barter so do not disappoint. And often if you start to walk away they will call you back and agree your price (assuming it was a fair one) so don't be detered by their apparent intransigence!
- The Devil's Nose is the only working part of Ecuador's decrepit railway network, damaged by natural disasters and poor infrastructure. This part of the network runs down steep valley sides from Riobamba to Alausi and is so called for the apparent shape of nose you can view at the bottom of the ride. Whilst it is not as terrifying as some guide books make out it is certainly an experience you should prepare yourself for, as there are often derailments (we had three...and they were repairing parts of the track as we went along!) and it is great fun to ride on the roof. You must get to Riobamba station early if you want the best positions on the roof.
- Tena/Puyo - where the jungle really starts. Trips to the jungle can be arranged from these locations as well as fun activities such as white-water rafting (which we did and was a superb experience). The jungle itself is naturally amazing. If you can spend at least a week there to get a real feel for it you can't fail to enjoy it, unless you do have a huge fear of creepy crawlies! But it is truly amazing to watch leaf-cutter ants carrying vegetation larger than their own bodies; it is fantastic to see so many different types of tree and plant with huge leaves; it is an unforgetable experience to see colourful birds, snakes, frogs, spiders, and if you are lucky, some of the larger animals that try to keep themselves hidden! It probably sounds silly, but this really is the natural world...live at your feet...and it makes you realise just how prescious this world is.
- Canoa is a quiet Pacific beach town with breathtaking views of sunsets, endless white sandy beach, and the perfect place to unwind for a few days if you just want to chill out. There is a hotel called Hotel Bambu and although it is more expensive than normal in Ecuador, it has a fab cocktail bar with happy hour coinciding with the sunsets! A coincidence? I think not!
If you want more lively resorts then seek out Atacames and Esmeraldes, where the nightlife is plentiful, but do be careful with your personal belongings as lots of tourists equals lot of opportunity for the poor in this country, and sadly there is a lot of financial poverty.
- The Galapagos islands speak for themselves really. tehir uniqueness is world renowned and if you can afford it you must make time to visit them. They are still relatively unspoiled but I do fear for their future as the financial benfits of tourism must be very tempting to some. I do believe though that there is also a general awareness that the country should try and preserve these islands so hopefully they will remain generally unspoiled. Maybe this explains the high prices charged for visiting them.
- The Scenery - Trips up some volcanoes are possible as are mountain climbing expeditions, so if this is your thing, then Ecuador offers you opportunity to do it. It's not personally my thing so I can't really say more than that, but the guide books give you more than enough information on the subjects and there are lots of agencies in the main cities who can help you, although do cover yourself by choosing reputable ones.
- Banos is a small town which is threatened by an active volcano Tungurahua which is a fascinating smouldering vision as you enter the town. It is recommended you do not stay in the town overnight (although many tourists often do) for the expected threat this volcano poses! However, you should visit Banos if you can for the hot springs, spas and waterfalls that make banos such an idyllic place to view. Many tourists hire bicycles and take known tourist routes in order to view some of the best waterfalls in the area.
- Quito is the cosmopolitan capital of Ecuador. Normally full of back-packing tourists, especially the more modern Mariscal district, there are lots of museums and historic monuments and buildings to see, notable the Panecillo. This is a statue of the Virgin Mary which overlooks the city and from there you have some fabulous views of Quito. It is advisbale to take a taxi to and from the Panecillo as it is located in a poor area and unfortunately there is a history of travellers being robbed. However, a return taxi ride from the Old Town should not cost you more than $10.

Food & Accommodation:
Don't drink the water in Ecuador. Use bottled water even to brush your teeth. With this in mind do be aware when eating out with regards to ice in drinks and freshly washed salads. The Ecuadorians themselves often boil their water for drinking so that should tell you something! Saying this, most good restaurants thoroughly cook their delicious food and will wash fruit and veg with boiled water. I suppose though it is probably advisable to take some kind of rememdy for bad stomachs as most travellers are affected if not by the water, by the climate (strong sunshine, hot and humid on the coast and in the jungle...not in the Andes as they are so high up).

Accommodaiton is generally very cheap with reasonable quality hostals and small hotels charging rates no more than $20 a room for the night. You can of course go for more expense if you wish or you can go for extreme budget and pay $3-4 for a bed for the night. Be warned though that such extreme budget acommodation will not have hot running water all the time and you will probably have to share bathrooms. Also, do not expect to find hot running water in all parts of the country you visit, especially in some of the coastal regios and the jungle. It is a developing country afterall, although to be honest after a day in the heat you may even prefer a nice cool shower. Most of the main cities and towns however will have accommodation that offers warm running water.

Getting from A to B
OK, in Ecuador everything is by bus or coach - between towns and cities - or by taxi - within towns and cities. this is entertaining to say the least especially if you are not used to it. Except for the special, higher class buses, most buses/coaches will stop anywhere to pick someone up and will stop almost anywhere to let you off...you have to ask the driver to stop first of course! This system works really well and there are so many buses it is usually very easy to get around the country. However for longer journeys to mopre remote parts of the country you are likely to have to use more than one bus or coach via the main transit points in Ecuador (such as Santo Domingo, Quito, Ambato, Cuenca) in order to arrive at your final destination. many buses entertain you with local music...well it's starts off as very entertaining but can sometimes become quite loud, but once you get used to it it is fun! You will also encounter persons trying to make a living and sell you things on the bus. It is perfectly normal so don't be offended and if you don't want anything just say no gracias.
taxis are generally cheap away from Quito, but even in the capital city, compared to other tourist destinations around the world a typical $5 fare is not expensive (depends on the length of your journey).

Flights:
From the UK there are no direct flights to Ecuador and unfortunately flght fares will probably be the most expensive part of your trip. You have to transit the USA (American Airlines/Virgin/Continental) or Europe (Amsterday - KLM; Madrid - Iberia; Paris - Air France). Average fares I would suggest are approximately £625 at the moment, however they can be slightly cheaper if you transit the States.

So i hope this review has encouraged you to visit Ecuador even if only as part of a general trip to South America. It is an amazing country and I cannot recommend it highly enough. I hope you have a great time! I will come back and edit this in the future with more information re my experiences. I hope you like the review. 

...less