General: France

I'm disabled and I wanted to go to Paris to see the sights. Easy ? Not as easy as I thought !

Since ending up in a wheelchair a few years ago, things have been a little bit trickier in just getting around. Not enough drop pavements, doors not wide enough, stuff left in the way in the isles in shops - it all adds up to a bit of a frustrating time. Beverly (my wife) & I had managed a few good holidays recently, including Barcelona, Jersey ...
...gave us such a glowing report of Paris, I decided that would be our next short break.

I did some internet research, found out roughly where we needed to stay to be close to all my sightseeing targets, and went to Expedia online to book. Piece of cake and quite low priced : just over 500 quid fully inclusive for 4 nights B&B in a Timhotel not far from the Louvre. I booked it, checked our passports, got the E111 ready and got the taxi ... more

I'm disabled and I wanted to go to Paris to see the sights. Easy ? Not as easy as I thought !

Since ending up in a wheelchair a few years ago, things have been a little bit trickier in just getting around. Not enough drop pavements, doors not wide enough, stuff left in the way in the isles in shops - it all adds up to a bit of a frustrating time. Beverly (my wife) & I had managed a few good holidays recently, including Barcelona, Jersey and a few UK city breaks, but since my son gave us such a glowing report of Paris, I decided that would be our next short break.

I did some internet research, found out roughly where we needed to stay to be close to all my sightseeing targets, and went to Expedia online to book. Piece of cake and quite low priced : just over 500 quid fully inclusive for 4 nights B&B in a Timhotel not far from the Louvre. I booked it, checked our passports, got the E111 ready and got the taxi on Saturday 11th Sept 2004 to Telford Central to get one of 2 trains to Birmingham International to catch our 12:10 flight to Paris.

There were no trains.

Buses were waiting to carry us to Wolverhampton or Birmingham. We got on the bus to Wolverhampton as it was easier to swap platforms in a wheelchair there than at New Street. Upon arriving at Wolverhampton we were told that there were no trains from here either - Bridge repair work. We should have got the bus direct to New Street, but no-one told us, even though we asked. Panic ! Time was passing and now the bus to New Street had to change at another station on the way, and we would miss the plane if we took it.

The Wolves Tram came to our rescue. A short walk and roll away, we boarded the Tram and got to Snow Hill station 34 mins later, walked across town to New Street and caught the train to Birmingham International, in time to get the plane. Phew !!

One, otherwise fairly uneventful, flight later (although I hate flying), and we landed on time at Charles De Gaulle airport near Paris. There was a language misunderstanding (by Air France cabin crew) regarding my wheelchair, and we were herded onto a coach and left at the bottom of an escalator with no other route out. I had to get out of my wheelchair and with Bev’s help, manhandle it, and me, up the escalator, collect our cases and get out through passport control. 3/10 for disability awareness to Air France cabin crew on AF3005 !!

Outside Paris airport and we were told by very helpful airport staff that the Roissybus would take us to the Opera House in the centre of Paris (about ¾ of a mile from our hotel) for a mere €8-50 each. MUCH cheaper than the taxi quote of €45 !

The ride was uneventful, I remembered to collect all of my bits and pieces, wheelchair, plus swingaway legs and cushion, my walking sticks, my luggage, and my wife, and we enjoyed a pleasant stroll to our hotel. Paris isn’t very hot on wheelchair access yet, and we had to make several 30 to 50 metre detours to use the drop pavements - it was either that or I would have had to struggle to get out & back into the chair every time we crossed a road. We noticed that Paris is very clean, no litter, no dog doo, and very wide roads. We were also impressed by the number of offers of assistance, very nice indeed.

We were looking out for restaurants for later, but needn’t have bothered - there are HUNDREDS of small bars, bistrots, take-aways, cafes and restaurants all over the place. The difficult thing was going to be which ones to choose ! My French language skills were needed on several occasions, and I was surprised how much I could remember (just as well, as Bev doesn’t speak a word (OK, she can say Bonjour)). My pre-downloaded map off the net was invaluable, but a much more detailed map was given to us at the Hotel.

The Timhotel room was a disappointment - VERY small, not really even cat swinging space. But it was clean, quiet and warm, three very important aspects for me at any rate.

After settling in on Saturday afternoon, we took a walk down the Rue des Petits Champs to eat a very late lunch. And guess what ? We got the only duff café in Paris. A burnt Panini which was supposed to have saussicon, jambon & fromage Brie (sausage, ham and Brie), just had chevre (Goats Cheese), which I hate. Bev ate mine and I ate some of her non burnt bread. On the way back to the hotel it peed down and we got soaked to the skin. Time for the emergency Mars Bars.

After a change of clothes and a short kip, we headed out at around 7:30 for a real meal. I had already spotted a place I fancied, a nondescript sort of place, but full of people, always a good sign. We luckily got a couple of seats and ordered two entrecote bordelaise. Delicious ! I had learned the trick during my last trip to France of ordering a steak bien cuit (well done) if I really wanted it medium, and it was spot on. With a bottle of the same wine that the steak was cooked in at €24, the total bill came to €60. Not too shabby for an excellent pair of steaks.

Hotel, Cognac, bed by 10:30, totally worn out. Sunday - Coffee & croissant buffet breakfast, and very good coffee it was too !!

Sunday was our planned day for the Louvre. As I was in a wheelchair, not just I, but Bev also, got in free, a very pleasant surprise. The Louvre is HUGE and it really does need at least one full day to explore. As you can imagine, it has been a major feat of engineering to install lifts for total accessibility in this ancient monument, and my hat certainly goes off to the staff who did everything they could to make it easy for us to get around. They even ploughed a path through to the Mona Lisa for us, and, as it was surrounded by around 500 folk at the time, this was no mean feat. Then disaster really did strike.

There was a total electrical blackout.

No lights, no tills, and most importantly for us, no lifts, and we were stuck on the second floor. The staff tried their very best, taking us to several different lifts in various parts of the building, just in case it was a localised failure, but no luck. It took us 3 hours to get out, and 2 of those were after the power came back on, and then only in some parts. Bev was close to panic as she doesn’t like confined spaces at the best of times. After an hour or so, most lifts were working but the prospect of getting into a lift and THEN to have it lose power was very frightening for her, and she was very brave to actually get into the lift on the 2nd floor. We eventually got out, but not before experiencing some close calls. The last lift arrived at the ground floor, we got out, and then the power failed again. We were very close to Bev’s worst nightmare, but that was it, we were out by then.

Back to the Hotel, a very large Cognac for both of us, a short kip and change of clothes and then out for another gastronomic adventure - Chinese food. Yep, believe it or not, we just fancied some noodles and beansprouts. Madame Wong’s was another 30m on from our Bistro of the previous night, and so that did it for us. Three course set menu for €13 each including ¼ bottle of red wine ! Bingo, we had struck gold, albeit Chinese gold. Very pleasant company too, my very limited Chinese language held us in good stead (hello, thank you, good bye).

Hotel, Cognac, kip. Monday - croissant & coffee breakfast.

Monday was to be our long walk day. Hotel to the Louvre, through the Tuillerie gardens and up the Champs Elysses to the Arc de Triomphe. A very nice day out, lunch at a French version of MacDonald’s and the afternoon along the Rue Hausmann, where all the posh expensive shops are. Bev had a great time there just window shopping. We did about 8 miles that day and Bev was almost on her knees by the time we got back. I found a cheap supermarket and bought my Calvados, 2 litres for 15 quid. I would have bought more, but carrying it would have been awkward. Shame.....
A return trip to Mme Wongs was in order. We really do like Chinese food ... and the second visit was “a la carte”. Some excellent dim sum, ribs, soup, beef noodles, lemon chicken, superb Cantonese fried rice and another old friend, some Tsing Tao beer. Hotel, Cognac & Calvados, kip.

On Monday afternoon, Bev had got really worn out, what with pushing me up the Champs Elysses, and she felt that she hadn’t really had enough shopping time. So, Tuesday morning, back up to Rue Hausmann to the shops again. This time Bev had much more fun, while I just sat in total admiration of the building of the Lafayette Centre - the ceiling is a work of art to rival anything else in Paris, and is thoroughly recommended as a sightseeing target itself !

Funds were starting to suffer by this time, so instead of a restaurant lunch we partook of a couple of sarnies, and later, we were back on our feet, this time headed for Notre Dame and the Left Bank.

Another good walk along Rue de Rivoli took us down to Pont Neuf, but Bev insisted on carrying on a little further as she had seen good old C&A !!!!! One quick visit to “Coats & ‘Ats” later, and we crossed on of the lower bridges onto L’Ile de Cite and on to Notre Dame. A quick photo call for Bev in front of the Rose window and the twin towers, then over to the Left Bank for some crepes and a coffee (the most expensive coffee we have ever drunk at €9-50 each !!!). More difficulties with pavements and crossing roads, but after all the exercise I was feeling quite good and was able to get up and take the few steps needed to cross safely without the detour to the drop kerbs.

As we passed the central courts area, we were quite amazed to see the very large number of armed police and army personnel. They certainly take security more seriously then we do in England. However, they were not threatening in any way, and two policemen even posed for photos with Bev, one on each arm :-)

After the exorbitantly priced coffee and banana & choc sauce crepes (total cost €33 !), we took a short walk down the famous Blvd St Michel (as in the Peter Sarsted song, “Where do you go to my lovely”), and through a small maze of alleyways with wonderfully quaint shops and even more cafes. Out onto the Left Bank and along the Seine back to the Louvre bridge, through the Louvre courtyards and back to the Hotel. After an hour or two to recouperate, we were off out again to yet another bistrot where we had another really good steak and yet more really good cheap plonk. This was probably my most enjoyable day, even though it was also the most tiring (due to all those blasted cobblestones and even more “no drop kerb” street corners).

Late Tuesday night, packing, finishing the paperback books we had brought along to make room in the luggage for the booze. A good nights kip, then we were off. But even our trip home was not without its hiccups.

The Hotel had been booked on the basis of B&B. They still managed to charge me for the breakfasts - it appears that they work to a different definition of B&B to us ! When we got home, I discovered that out itinerary had been changed to room only, but I still had my original receipts, so I am claiming my breakfasts back !

We managed to get the Roissybus with no problem, but I managed to leave both of my walking sticks on the bus, never to be seen again. Another £35 for a new pair of sticks when we got home.

More language barriers at the airport - it looked like I was supposed to hand my chair over at the baggage counter and walk to the plane. Ridiculous, I tried to explain, but she wasn’t having any of it. Until a very nice lady who spoke fluent English and French came and took charge. She told the counter clerk in no uncertain terms that of course I could not walk, could she not see my wheelchair ?

From then on it was plainer sailing. We were boarded before all the rest of the passengers, with good seats and the cabin crew on this flight (AF3004) were much better English speakers than the flight out, so I had no problems upon arriving at Birmingham.

In fact, it was almost as if my guardian angel had just arrived, as there were no delays on any trains, we got all of our connections, good seats, help at all three stations with the wheelchair, and a taxi waiting at the bottom of the ramp at Telford.

Main points for disabled travellers to Paris to note :

* French speaking cabin crew have to have it spelled out very clearly as to what you can or cannot do. Draw a picture if necessary, or at least, try and learn some basic French phrases for “I cannot walk”.

* Paris has very few drop kerbs ! You may have to take a long detour or get out of the wheelchair to cross a road.

* Hotels do not always cater well for wheelchair users. Ring the Hotel first and ask if there is a lift AND how big it is !! My chair only just fitted inside the lift, and then I had to take the leg rests off.

* Generally, people in Paris were very helpful. Accept the help if it is offered, what’s the point of wearing yourself out.

* The Champs Elysses is a long hill, leading UP from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe.

* The Louvre, whilst making an effort, is still VERY difficult to negotiate in a wheelchair.

Other points to note :

* Cafes charge a lot if they are on a main street. Take your time and have a peek just around that corner, it could save you pounds.

* Watch it on those streets, the reputation of French drivers is not undeserved.

OVERALL : I had a great time, with a few minor niggles.
 

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