I'm BACK!!! OK, so you didn't miss me, didn't even know I was gone probably, but nevertheless I'm going to use this opportunity to tell you what I've been up to and give you the run down on Hong Kong… Asia's world city…
Back in May, I fled the country to go and work for a couple of months in a place that is renowned as one of the world's most vibrant cultural cities. In my time there I got to see a lot of Hong Kong and experience the culture from the viewpoint of both someone living there and of being a tourist, so I should have plenty of experiences to share with you….and thus begins my novel….
The first thing that strikes you when you land in Hong Kong, is the heat and humidity. The heat at a pleasant 30 degrees is nice. The humidity however was at 96 per cent when I landed so to a typical Brit like me, it meant profuse sweating for the first couple of weeks of getting used to it. After landing I took a trip on the Airport Express train from the airport to Central Hong Kong. This has got to be one of the most impressive ways of arriving in the big city. The train is immaculately clean, with aeroplane style TV in the back of the seat in front of you. Considering the distance you travel, its probably a reasonable bargain at $90, about £9.
That's when you realise you've arrived. Skyscraper after skyscraper 100 storey's tall… even I, being a countryside loving sort of person, was absolutely awe struck and impressed by the tremendous skyline. No two building look this same in central HK - each has been built to show off the architects imagination, and its not difficult to see the artistic intentions. One of the most impressive buildings is the Bank of China, which stands tall and proud, although it has to be said it looks like a preying mantis. The Feng Shui of the building is supposed to be very negative and is disliked by the local people, however it is definitely a sight to be seen.
One of the best ways to get a view of the city is the Peak - this is a hill overlooking Central Hong Kong, the harbour and Kowloon on the other side. This is very popular
with tourists and locals alike. To get to the Peak, a Tram ride is the most memorable route. This starts off at the bottom of the hill and ascends at about a 50 degree angle. When travelling on the tram, try to get a seat or the 10 minute journey seems like half an hour. The view from the tram is in itself amazing. As it goes past skyscrapers you start to feel as though the skyscrapers were built at 45 degrees… a strange mind-bending feeling. The view though, is best from the top where there are plenty of look-out points and places to eat. The ride on the tram costs about £2.50 return. If you find yourself in HK, try and spend a full day at the Peak. The views in the day and at night are both stunning, and there's plenty to keep you occupied, including Madame Tussauds, Ripley's Believe It or Not, and lots of souvenir shops. Madame Tussauds is a little overpriced at about £14, but still worth the visit.
There are numerous ways to get around HK - with 6 million people living in a city which doesn't cover a very large area, public transport has to be good. But its also very cheap. The fastest way of getting about is using the Mass Transit Railway (MTR). This is the underground system, which runs very smoothly, quickly and efficiently… Most journeys on the MTR will cost less that £1 depending on how far you travel. One stop to the next is about 40p generally. The trains are incredibly clean and, of course, very busy around the main shopping areas…namely Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Jordan, Kowloon Tong, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. The MTR usually closes at about 1am and starts at 6am. Trains are very regular and run like clockwork.
The best way to get from Hong Kong island to the Kowloon side though has got to be on a Star Ferry. These ferries take you on an 8 minute journey through the busy harbour, again with amazing views of the skyscrapers. They were built some time ago and have their own atmosphere about them, it feels like a traditionally Chinese experience. Its also very cheap at about 22p for one of the best ferry rides you will ever experience.
Buses are the best bet for getting you to the more rural areas of Hong Kong though, yes there are some rural areas - about 60 per cent of Hong Kong is actually rural. Get the number 23bus from the Tung Chung MTR station and you will find yourself going on a winding narrow road to the worlds largest bronze Buddha. The Buddha stands at 34 metres tall and was constructed about 5 years ago on Lantau Island. This is one magnificent piece of religious architecture. I'm not a religious person, however this statue and the monastery situated next door are definitely worth a visit. From the base of the statue you have a wonderful view of countryside, sea and small islands. The monastery itself is also very colourful and a sight to be believed. You can even get served up tea and vegetarian dishes from the monks who live there.
So, when you've done the sightseeing, no doubt the next thing on your mind will be, wait for it, SHOPPING. HK is a shopping Mecca. For your Gucci, Armani and Versace I'd recommend Pacific Place - this is a huge shopping centre just two minutes underground walk from the Admiralty MTR station. Yes its luxury, yes its all the big names and yes, its expensive… but surely a bit of window shopping isn't going to damage the bank balance so badly.
If you're more into your typical high street shops, then perhaps Times Square at Causeway Bay offers good quality items at prices that are more affordable. Causeway Bay is where a lot of the locals do their shopping and for all you 'net' freaks (like me), then its also a good place to catch up on your e-mail because there are lots of free ADSL internet points dotted about the place. Another good place is Festival Walk, just above the Kowloon Tong MTR station… don't miss the Rainforest Café here.. its excellent for children (and big kids like me).
If you're looking for a bargain, then you have to do the markets. There are two big market areas that most tourists visit… these being at Stanley (on the south of HK island), and at Temple Street in Tsim Sha Tsui. To get to Stanley market, the best bet is to take the number 6, 6a or 6x bus from Central or Admiralty. It costs about 90p one way and is about a 30-40 minute journey which ends right at the entrance to the market. Here you will find cheap leather goods, clothing, copied works of art (oil paintings of course), fake designer watches and lots of other stuff. Most of it is the Chinese version of what you might find in novelty shops at the UK seaside though. To get a good price, you can haggle down to about 70 per cent of the original asking price… sometimes lower. Do haggle though, or you will find your suitcase filled with expensive junk.
Temple Street Market is the other great place to drop in at… this is just a minute's walk from the Jordan MTR station. Again there's lots of bargains to be had, but you have to haggle to get a good deal. Walking through the market you will be hot and sticky and in big crowds of people, but its well worth it. In all, the market is about a mile long and is a great place to get your fortune told if you're into that sort of thing. Keep walking North and you will find yourself experiencing all sorts of aroma's.
And this is a good time for me to switch to HK's bad points.
As you reach the street sellers with their woks and buckets full of 'food', you will be overcome by the stench and, if you're anything like me, will want to wretch. I took a friend to this area and we both decided that 'boiling diarrhoea' was an accurate description of the aroma… mmm… lovely. Seriously it was revolting.
In fact, I was disappointed as a whole with the food in HK. I'm a strong stomached lad who can eat just about anything, but Hong Kong gave me the worst upset tum I've had in my life… hence I know that boiling diarrhoea is an accurate description.
I tried lots of the local Chinese restaurants, as you do, and tried some of the more exotic dishes to be had, as well as the sweet and sour pork. I've tried frog's ovaries, sea snails, chicken feet and lots of things off menus without an English translation. Some were nice, in fact the stranger things were the nicer they were…
After two weeks of eating in restaurants and hotels I was ill. Everything I ate from that point on didn't have time to digest before it was either thrown up and straight through… I don't mean to be disgusting here, but I want to give a picture of my situation. Stuck in Hong Kong and unable to eat without being really ill… needless to say, work was a problem but I had to keep going.
I mentioned sweet and sour pork as a basic dish. In HK it was sweet and sour bones which you'd have to suck at to find any meat content.
HK is also famous for its seafood, and I was treated to a meal in Sai Kung in the New Territories, renowned for excellent dishes. I wasn't put off my choosing my own food fresh from buckets at the entrance to the restaurant. Some of it looked like it was not of this planet, but not being fluent in Cantonese I just pointed and said 'one'. My selections were picked out of their little habitats and thrown into plastic bags for me, tied with some string. The street was a fish slaughter yard so I tiptoed past the blood stained sea view with my crawling bags of dinner.
Once in the restaurant, the bags are quickly taken to the kitchen and five minutes later, delicacies arrive at the less than hygienic dining tables. My instinct was to leave quickly, but the nice people who took me assured me that this was a really good restaurant. I picked at the food for an hour or so then finally got to go back to the sanitation of my hotel. Needless to say I was up all night… you get the picture. I haven't been able to eat fish or seafood since.
Anyway, moving away from the topic of food (I'm beginning to feel nauseous), and onto the other bad points of Hong Kong.
I touched on sanitation earlier… Hong Kong is the dirtiest, least hygienic city I've ever been to… you can't step outside for more than 10 minutes without getting that urge for a shower. This isn't helped by the humidity of course.
Then there's the pollution and boy is HK polluted. Clouds of haze cover the city areas as soon as the afternoon arrives. Still the hustle bustle and manic driving goes on until very late.
Anyway, I've just realised how long this review is getting, so I'll wrap up with a summary for you…
Hong Kong has sights to see that are worth a visit. They can be done in four days if you know where you want to go. Its an ideal weekend break on the way to somewhere else… unfortunately that's not altogether practical when you fly for 12 hours to get there.
If you are going to stay longer, then be very careful what you eat and where you eat it. Stick to the more Western places like Planet Hollywood and Hard Rock Café on Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui - they are actually cheaper than the average Chinese restaurant.
Be prepared for seeing tower block after tower block of dirty flats. I haven't even mentioned the shops that sell dogs in small cages, or the snakes and lizards on the street corners for sale as medicine. Be prepared for the humidity and the pollution. Together they will make you feel yuk all the time you aren't in an air conditioned place… oh and prepare to be dripped on by the air conditioning systems as you walk down the street.
In all, expect something very different to the UK… and if you're a countryside lover like me, then just don't go… you're not missing much.
To end on a good note, I went to Borneo for a fortnight after I was in Hong Kong… much nicer… that'll have to be the subject of another novel though.
Wishing you happy and safe travelling, wherever you go.
Si
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Hotel - 308 Des Voeux Road West, Hong Kong, Hong Kong, 73 - 75 Chatham Road South, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, Hong Kong - 4 Stars, 3 Stars - 308, 205 Rooms
I know i will get abuse from other reviewers however i feel i must say what ifeel about your review.My mother is Chinese and my father Scottish. For me you represent the typical english tourist who is unwilling to adapt to other cultures. Have you ever visited a city??Pollution is high however no different to London or new york. You claimed that streets are dirty. Most parts of Hong Kong are EXTREMELY clean. i understand different parts are dirtier such as new terrotries however you have to compare hong kong to other cities. some areas of england and scotland which i have visited are the biggest dumps i have ever seen eg glasgow manchester parts of london. Hong Kong already has lots of laws against spitting chewing gum so you need to look at the wider picture.and as for the food. Mate i have been to thailand and i stomach prblems the whole of my stay. Chinese food is not like your fish and chips pal. the food in hong kong isnt like your chinese takeaway(sweet and sour pork???). There are some fantastic restaurants in hong kong i just feel you went to a really bad area. i do feel this is quite a good review however some of the cons are a misintepretation. im 15 and ive been to hong kong 4 times and i dont like people having a go about my mothers homeland especially if there slagging it off for no reason. get a grip mate!!!
Delicate_Orchid 08.07.2006 16:08
A very-balanced review... the pros and cons are clearly delineated. x
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Aug 5th, 2001
(Mar 20th, 2008)
very helpful by (100%):
