if you're javanese, when I say that after much consideration and thought, not to mention time here, I say that I don't like Java very much. This is not to say that there are not spectacular things here to do and see, or that the ancient and colourful Javanese cultures are not fascinating. It is, if anything, simply because I think that other areas of Indonesia have more to offer and are nicer places to visit.
First, the basics. Java is a long, thin island to the north west of Australia, between Sumatra and Bali. It is the central of Indonesia, whose capital Jakarta is to be found near the Western tip. It is divided into three main provinces - West, Central and Eastern Java and is almost completely muslim. Three main local languages are spoken here of which the oldest, classical Javanese, is one of the most complex in existence.
Okay, time to justify my opinion, especially as visitors to Indonesia will have a hard job avoiding this island - the vast majority fly into the capital Jakarta and from there Java must be crossed to get anywhere else. It's the centre of Indonesia in more ways than simple geography though. The Javanese run Indonesia and have done since it became independent 56 years ago, in fact you could justifiably describe them as a colonial power. The political system, army and police are all dominated by Javanese - in the army, you'd be hard pressed to find anyone from the other 16,999 islands in the top ranks. It is thus by the Javanese and in Java that the rules of this country are both made and enforced, and no-one should be surprised if that means things are often arranged largely to benefit the Javanese.
But none of this is why I don't like Java. I think the first reason is that there are just so many people here. I think I'm right in saying that West Java is the most overpopulated place in the world, run close only by East Java. This doesn't mean there aren't beautiful, islolated places here, there are - even national parks - but it does mean that it's incredibly hard to escape crowds. And this brings with it all the attendent problems of a high population, in particular pollution. For reasons I do not understand, the Indonesians are possibly the worst litter bugs in the world. They themselves are always immaculate, and their houses are spotless, yet this pride in appearances does not extend to their beautiful surroundings. You will find litter everywhere you go, it will guide you along trails in national parks, it will slide beneath your feet as you climb remote mountains, you'll see monkeys trying to eat it, flies buzzing around it and it really isn't a pretty sight. It ruins some of the most beautiful locations here, even sacred mountains like Gunung Lawu have litter all over them right up to the peak. I dread to think what the polluting effect is.
The pollution is another reason to avoid Java, and Javanese cities in particular. I spent a month last year in the central city of Yogya, one of the nicest places here, cycling around with bare arms. I failed to get a tan. I then went to Bali and within a day, my arms were burned. Why? Javanese cities are so polluted that not enough sun gets through to affect your skin. If you ever fly into Jakarta - the worst culprit - you'll see a great brownish yellowish grey cloud over the city that has nothing to do with the weather: it's the trapped fumes of the cities millions of buses, cars and motorbikes. I have never seen anything like the exhaust these things can produce: speaking as one who's had a mouthful as a result of being behind a bus at traffic lights, I can tell you that it's black, can be impossible to see through, hurts to breath in and has a gritty consistency that will embed itself in your skin so that every night in these places, when you wash, you will find the water goes black. Yuk.
Both these problems apply to other areas of INdonesia too, it's just the population numbers that make them intolerable. But what also seems to happen here is the amount of hassle tourists get, especially in rural areas. Now, most of this I don't mind: in Indonesia, it's polite to chat to people and they are a friendly lot. You'll get asked where you're from, where you're going, whether you're married (and get lots of sympathy if you're not) etc etc, and generally I don't mind. But on Java I have much more of a problem than anywhere else with Javanese men. These guys will talk to you not out of politeness but because they want their mates to see them talking to a white girl. Frequently, they will proposition you. If you try and make it clear you don't want to chat or ignore them, on a bus, say, they will frequently poke your arm to make you respond, which I find very irritating. Despite this, they consider themselves a very polite people and within their own society they are, they just tend to regard foreigners a bit like you or I would regard an animal at a zoo. This means that they will never contradict you or fail to answer a question, even if they don't know the answer. Don't ever ask a Javanese for directions or information cos they'll make it up if they don't know. They might think it's polite, but it drives me crazy.
Okay, now the good stuff. Java has some sights that are unparalleled in my experience, and make all the hassle worthwhile. In Eastern Java, watching the sun rise over Gunung Bromo, a clutch of extinct and not-so-extinct volcanoes, is a sight I will never forget. Nor is climbing the central volcano of Merapi, one of the most active in the world. The ancient city of Yogyakarta, the island's cultural and intellectual capital, is probably the nicest place in the whole island with its ancient palace, colourful trishaws and supreme skill at batik painting, not to mention the extraordinary ancient Buddhist temple of Borobodur or the Hindu ruins of Prambanan. All these things are strange and wonderful and beautiful experiences, it is just that they are the exceptions here, whereas strange and beautiful things seem to be more the norm on the other islands.
So my advice would be, unless you have a Javanese friend or especial reason to be here, to leave as soon as possible. Head for the glorious mountains and culture of Bali, the unexplored islands of Nusa Tengarra, the deeply underrated island of Sulawesi, the vast jungles of Borneo or Sumatra's massive volcanic lakes. My experience is that it is here you will find the true magic and beauty of indonesia that, for all Java's ancient mysticism and culture, is lost beneath the noise and dirt of millions of people on this ancient island
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