Author's product rating: 
| Advantages: |
cheap, friendly and interesting |
| Disadvantages: |
fare away, expensive ticket |
| Recommend to potential buyers: |
yes |
Places to visit
There are a lot of things to do in Nepal. In the surrounding of 250 kilometers you have excellent opportunities for trekking in the Himalayas, in the lowlands of the Terai there is the tropical Chitwan National Park, where you can ferret rhinos in reed, feed happy crocodiles by falling in the river and see many other animals.
The Kathmandu Valley is full of cultural highlights. There are three king palaces, many Hindu Temples, Buddhist Temples, Stupas, and the gorgeous mediaeval town of Bhaktapur. Nine places are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sights.
Nepali people are gentle, honest and helpful. Travelling is safe and prices are very low.
When to go?
The monsoon is from June to end of September. The best time for trekking is October to November. In winter it is very dry and you can see the mountain very clear, but in upper regions there is snow and it is very, very cold during the night. Good trekking conditions are form March to May, the best time to climb the Mt. Everest.
How much time you need?
Two weeks (without time to go and leave) are enough to do the Jonsom Trek, the Chitwan National Park and the Kathmandu Valley in a fast way. You have more time to relax and enjoy the sights, if you have one or two more weeks. Add one more week, if you think to do the Annapurna Circuit. If you have more than a month you can try the Mt. Everest trek, without fear to miss your plane in Kathmandu. The time depends on your luck to get a flight to and from Lukla.
Budget:
The air ticket from Frankfort to Kathmandu via Bahrain was 650 Dollar. The Nepal government charge another app. 100 Dollar for Visa, trekking permit, departure tax etc. On a low budget you can calculate only with added 10 to 20 Dollars a day.
Trekking, which Trek?
I mention only the main treks, which are important for first time visitors to Nepal.
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek:
This treks needs more than three weeks and you must be in good physical condition to master all the ups and downs. You can't see the Mt. Everest from the Mt. Everest Base camp, but from Kala Patar (5.550m) nearby. You must consider problems with the altitude sickness (look under the health section). The area is more remote than the Annapurna region; therefore they charge double the prices for accommodation and food (which is still affordable). Going to and get away by plane or helicopter from Lukla is difficult, because of the changing weather conditions and the high demand of flights also from organized groups mainly in the peak season. You must calculate more than 8 days to start from and return to Jiri, the last reachable place by car or bus.
Helambu-Langtang Trek
starts near Kathmandu, offers many variations where to go and is not as overcrowded as the treks in the Annapurna region. It is also suitable for beginners, but the scenery and the Tibetan culture should be slightly better in the Annapurna region.
Annapurna Region
The favourite of first visitors to Nepal. The treks are easy accessible, developed, not difficult but also a little crowded in peak season (but not in late November 2002).
Jonsom-Muktinah Trek 7-10 days
This was my trek I described. Easy. The favourite trek if you have less than three weeks time.
Annapurna Circuit 2-3 weeks
The crossing of the pass Thorung La (5.416 m) could be difficult. Because of the dangers of altitude sickness you go anti-clockwise. Its last part follows the Jonsom-Muktinah-Trek, also this trek more strenuous.
Annapurna Base Camp Trek 10 days
You can go this trek before the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek (start is Phedi) or afterwards the Annapurna Circuit (branch off for and at Gorepani)
Short treks 3-6 days
There are some short treks from Pokhara. You can go from Naya Pool to Gorepani (see Jonsom Muktinah trek) in one long day. You need one more long day from Gorepani to Gandruk and one more long day from Gandruk to Phedi. Add one more day in Gorepani to relax. You can also walk in one day from Phedi to Gandruk and in one day back to Naya Pool. Think of recovery time!
Organized or individual?
To go at your own saves money and you have no trouble. Most Nepali speak at least some English, communication is not a problem, going around is cheaper and easier as in Europe.
If you book an organized trip from Europe, you could be sure that all goes well. You may have more fun in a group, than travelling alone, but you have to pay more than twice. You learn more of the way things happen in Nepal, if you have to organize your trip for yourself, but in a package tour you have a guide who could explain a lot of things you wouldn't hear, if you go alone.
If you book an organized tour in Kathmandu, you cant be sure that you have a serious company. It's possible that the guide has to ask the local people for the way. I booked a sight seeing tour in Kathmandu and was disappointed. The tour started at eleven, they skipped important sights (Boudha) and there was only half an hour to visit Pagan Square or Swayambuh. The guide takes the money for the admission fee, but smuggled me without ticket (which was valid for one week) into the sight.
Every hotel manager tries to sell you organized trips (because of the commission). Don't do this, don't believe information there is no bus and don't believe faked mails. If you want independent information, ask other travellers or the waiter in the restaurant. Hotel Manager offered a trip to Nargakot and Bhaktapur for 50 Dollar. I paid less than 1 Dollar to the bus stop by Rikshah, less than 1 Dollar to go to and return from Nargakot and Bhaktapur and less than 5 Dollars a night to stay in a Hotel in Nargakot. I spent with food and beverage less than 10 Dollars.
Visa, arriving and leaving at Kathmandu Airport:
You need a passport, which is valid more than six months. You buy your visa at the airport (30 Dollar) and have to give a pass photo (thumbnail). People told, that a photograph make photos for 5 Dollar. Consider that you need one more photo for the trekking permit. You can change money at the visa desk. Taxi drivers take also Dollar to a reasonable exchange rate; you can change money also in Thamel at an exchange booth in Thamel. If not, you can change money in the departure hall of the Airport (only some meters from the exit). There are no ATMs.
Toots are waiting for you in front of the airport to bring you to a Hotel to Thamel. I paid 6 dollars for the Hotel and 1 dollar for the taxi; it is a good idea to bargain the taxi fare, if you don't like the hotel. They also take you to your hotel of your choice for 2 Dollars. I think it is not worth to mention other means to get to your Hotel for the first day. After that the hotel manager invites you to a tea and he tries to offer you organized trips (see the chapter there).
You have to pay a departure tax only in Rupees of 1.100 RS (December 02) for international flights. Ask in Kathmandu before you leave. If you have a receipt you can change Rupees back to Dollars at the Airport. Batteries in the hand luggage are confiscated at the check in.
If you have left Nepal to India your visa expires. You have to pay an entrance visa fee of 50 Dollars, when you return to Nepal within one year. You have to consider this if you want to visit India via Kathmandu.
Money:
1 Euro or 1 Dollar was 77 Rupees in December 2002.
There are a lot of exchange booths in Thamel, Pokhara and in Tourist areas, but only a few ATMs. I didn't see any ATMs for EC-cards; I saw only Visa or American Express. Traveller Checks in Dollars are the best choice; they gave the same exchange rate as for cash. I keep my dollar traveller checks always for the next holiday. You can buy also one half of your money in your currency, so you don't loose (or win) if the money of your country gain or loose to the Dollar.
Accommodation
Low Budget hotels in Thamel charged 3-6 Dollars in late November, when there was an oversupply of rooms. More known hotels like the "Tibetan Guest House" charge more. The rooms are simple, mostly clean but often haywire especially in the bathroom. You have to bring your own towels and loo-paper, it is not included in the cheap hotels and they donut change sheets. Bring your own lightweight sleeping bag with you.
On the Jonsom Muktinah Trek I paid only 1-2 Dollar, but there were much more capacity as demand, sometimes I was the only guest. You eat usually in your hotel and include food and beverage it was 8-12 Dollar (without beer). In the Mt. Everest area calculate with double the price.
Transport:
Busses:
Tourist buses to Pokhara (around 4 Dollar) leave at 7-8 at Kantipath on the opposite side of the King Palace in the morning at 6 to 8 a.m. At the crossing "Durbar Marg/ Bagbazar" near the water monument "Rani Pokhri" local buses leave for Bhaktapur every ten to thirty minutes. Pay in the bus! Fare is 9 Rupees (12 cent). The ride takes one hour. If you want to go to Nargakot you have to change the bus at the terminal in Bhaktapur (one more hour, 10 Rupees). Be aware of theft of luggage, which is on the roof of the bus, especially to Jiri.
Taxi
Is also cheap. Fare to the airport from Thamel (7 km) is 200 Rupees (2,70 Dollar). You have to negotiate the price, the use of taximeter is not common or the taximeter could be fudged. Rikshas are only slightly cheaper; use them only for small distances.
Rental cars
Forget it! Hiring a taxi for a day is cheaper.
Dangers
Nepal is a safe country for travelling. As everywhere you have to be careful for your belongings. Nepal people are in general honest. Though people are poor, there is no enhanced risk of theft like in The Americas or Eastern Europe. Violent crimes are very rare. I have not heard any problems of harassment from women travellers.
There is a civil war in Nepal. People who call themselves "Maoists" want to bear down the King and the government. They fight for more justice and want that all the people are equal. They commit terror acts on governmental institutions to reach their goal, but menace also teachers of private schools (because they teach rich people) and local people who refuse to cooperate. Some thousand peoples are killed by terror acts of the Maoists up to now. The Maoists control already some western parts of the country; you shouldn't visit this part, because there it is too dangerous. The Annapurna Region, Kathmandu Valley and the Chitwan National Park are relative safe. Like the IRA in Northern Ireland the Maoists donut fight tourism, what they have declared assertively. There are no clues that they will change their minds in future. But some robberies in remote areas are reported committed by people who pretend to be Maoists.
Sometimes there are strikes in Nepal. Nothing happens on a strike. You hardly find a bus or taxi, because it is dangerous for the drivers to point out as a strikebreaker.
In remote areas - also at the Jonsom Trek - the only way to get to a hospital is by plane or helicopter, which could be difficult and it is very expensive at all events. Health insurance, which covers rescue work, is very recommendable. If you have serious health problems you can visit the Kathmandu Valley, but trekking is not recommendable. In Kathmandu there are hospitals on European standards, which may be better as some hospitals in the European Province. You will find medical help also on the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek. The trek leads mainly through inhabited areas, telephone is available (but not for sure in other remote areas of Nepal) and you won't be the lonely trekker on the Himalayan trekking racecourse. Nepali people and certainly other trekkers will help you for sure. In peak season there are thousands of European trekkers, who run the Jonsom-Muktinah Trek or the Annapurna Circuit.
Your embassy cares only in special political situations, not if you have health problems, even if the health problems are serious. I think it is not their duty to chaperone ordinary trekking tourism. Like travellers in Britain and Germany you have to arrange with the conditions of the country you visit without help of the embassy.
Food
The Nepal cuisine is simple, but tasty. The traditional dish is "Daal Bhat"; a plate of rice with a cup of lentil soup mostly served with Achar spicy tomato chutney and/or curried vegetables. It is traditional that you can eat as much "Daal bhat" as you like, the best if you are hungry. Nepalese eat meat only on special occasions; on the treks meat was rarely served. It is often sinewy and they use sometimes all parts of the animal includes skin, entrails etc. Otherwise you can eat Pizza, Pasta, Mousakka or Tortilla from Chapati all in Nepal fancy stile. "Momos" are with rice and vegetable filled steamed dumplings. In the cook shops at the roadside they sell fried vegetables, potatoes, pastry and other specialties. A typical Nepali dessert is Sikarni, yoghurt with cinnamon, raisins and nuts.
For breakfast you eat eggs, omelettes, pancakes, toast or "Tibetan bread" (fried rolls).
Beer is comparatively expensive (2 Dollar a bottle), soft drinks like Coke very cheap (30 cent). The price in the shop is the same as in the restaurant. You have a choice of teas always served with milk, if you do not order "black" (the same for coffee). Mustang coffee is coffee made with brandy.
Language
Many Nepali speak and understand some English. Communication is no problem. Apart from Nepali there are some other local languages like Newar.
Health
Vaccination/Malaria
You need a Hepatitis-A vaccination, and standard European immunization (Tetanus etc.) but not Hepatitis-B (you get only by exchange of blood, contaminated needles and unprotected sex). There is no Malaria in the Kathmandu Valley or in the Himalayas. The risk in the Chitwan National Park is very low, especially in the dry season. You have to consider that the side effects of malaria prophylactics could be serious by adverse reactions, especially for a foetus.
Germs
Donut use tab water (nor for cleaning teeth). Nepal has not solved the sewage disposal; stool in water can cause Hepatitis, Diarrhoea and other diseases. Boiling the water or purification with iodine is safe. No ice cubes or ice cream! If you eat vegetable or fruits: "Peal it, cook it or forget it!" Drinking the yoghurt drink " Lassi " should cause Diarrhoea, be careful that meals are not reheated. Be careful but you have always to calculate with some days of mild sickness of diarrhoea, which varies in the intensity. You get loose stool at first and you feel unwell. Untreated the nausea disappears normally after some days. Use antibiotics only if the problems are serious and ask a doctor before.
Be careful and sensitive but there is no reason to be overanxious.
Altitude Sickness
please read the health chapter of the Jonsom-
Muktinath-Trek
Email
There are plenty of Internet Cafés in Kathmandu and Pokhara. In Kathmandu you pay 30 Rupees per hour, in Pokhara common pricing is 120 Rupees per hour. Speed is low because of the telephone connection. There was no Internet on the Jonsom Muktinah Trek or at Sauhara (Chitwan National Park).
Shopping
Slow down your shopping frenzy. You are in good holiday mood and you may regret buying too much things you donut need at home. There are many handicraft articles, statues of Buddha or Hindu deities, gold and silver jewellery, carpets, wool and other clothes, bags, trekking and mountaineering gear etc. Branded articles are mostly counterfeit. Bargaining is essential, but light-hearted and not so pushy as in Northern Africa. Nepali can accept, that you don’t buy. If you want to buy something, don’t show any interest, walking away cuts the price dramatically. It is better to buy at the end of the journey.
CDs from international pop stars cost 200 RS (3 Dollar). Test the CD and ask for a trial run.
There are a lot of second hand bookshops in Thamel and Pokhara, where you can buy cheap all the top sellers trekkers have sold after reading. You can also buy Lonely Planet Books, Rough Guides, maps of the treks etc.
I bought two jeans for ten dollars each and a big bag pack Lowe imitation (80 liters) for 25 Dollars. The imitations have not the quality of the brand products, but are worth the money. You can buy all your trekking gear in Nepal.
A special discount is to buy glasses, the optician measure your eyesight very thoroughly and you pay for glasses 30 to 50 Dollars with (more expensive as glass) plastic lenses. An optician is at the crossing Kantipath/ Jamal
Famous are the Buddhist paintings "Thangkas"; a main production center is Bhaktapur. Tibetan artists, but also other Nepali workers paint the pictures en detail at canvas. The paintings depict Buddha's life, the wheel of life or they are "Mandalas" mystical diagrams for meditation. The paintings fall in classes of "masterpieces" and other. "Masterpieces" are very expensive Thangkas from very experienced artists, who use gold and better colours for painting. Because it takes a lot of time (the statements of the dealers are exaggerated) to produce a painting, Thangkas are not cheap. Expect more than 100 Dollar for a small "Masterpiece", but if it is a Masterpiece only an expert can distinguish. Cheap colours usually bleach after some time.
Travel guidebooks
There is no travel guidebook I could really recommend. In Thamel you can buy all kind of new guidebooks (especially lonely planet Nepal) but also cheaper second hand Lonely Planets or Rough Guides.
Lonely Planet - "Nepal"(1999 edition) :
the most popular, good but not excellent, to expensive for the content.
Rough Guide - "Nepal" (1996 edition) :
better maps, better presented as the lonely Planet, cheaper, but poor Trekking information
Lonely planet - "Trekking in the Nepal Himalayas" (1997 edition) : bad maps of the trails, slightly more Information as in the Lonely Planet "Nepal", to expensive
There are some photos on my website http://home.freiepresse.de/uwdel
Note: Because English is not my native language; there are mistakes in writing and grammar. It would be kind to mail me 1-5 mistakes you found, if you think this side is helpful for your trip. Thanks!
If things has changed, are not correct or if you have questions inform me!!
Mail me: kambodschajoe@hotmail.com
