General: North (Thailand)

Chaing Mai is the capital of the Northern Thailand province of Chaing Mai. With a population of just over 160,000 people it is the perfect urban getaway from the strangling density of Bangkok. The weather is also a little cooler than the capital and its centre is beautifully contained within a square moat.

There are a range of options available in getting to Chaing Mai from the capital. We took an overnight train which left Bangkok ...
...at 12 noon the next day. You can also bus it which takes around 12 hours. Many of the agencies on the Khao San road offer a VIP bus to Chaing Mai. The last alternative is to fly which would probably be best for those with limited time. Our single train journey cost us 500 Baht each (12 Euro).


ACCOMMODATION

We stayed in 2 guesthouses while in Chaing Mai. The first, SK house was chosen for us by our trekking ... more

Chaing Mai is the capital of the Northern Thailand province of Chaing Mai. With a population of just over 160,000 people it is the perfect urban getaway from the strangling density of Bangkok. The weather is also a little cooler than the capital and its centre is beautifully contained within a square moat.

There are a range of options available in getting to Chaing Mai from the capital. We took an overnight train which left Bangkok at 10 in the evening and arrived in Chaing Mai at 12 noon the next day. You can also bus it which takes around 12 hours. Many of the agencies on the Khao San road offer a VIP bus to Chaing Mai. The last alternative is to fly which would probably be best for those with limited time. Our single train journey cost us 500 Baht each (12 Euro).

ACCOMMODATION

We stayed in 2 guesthouses while in Chaing Mai. The first, SK house was chosen for us by our trekking agency. As part of our trek we would get the night we arrived in Chaing Mai and the night after the trek for free.

SK house is centrally located just off Thanon Moon Muang down a small soi. It boasts about the garden on its premises but on inspection the garden turned out to be nothing other than a tree in the centre of a small courtyard.

The room we were given was a very basic double with bathroom attached. The walls of the room badly needed painting and the ensuite layout was cramped to say the least. That said the restaurant was cheap and cheerful and its central location (near the Irish pub) did add to its attractiveness.

We spent the majority of our stay in Chaing Mai in the Royal guest house. An inexpensive jewel this one as it has a pool and a large selection of spacious air-con rooms for 350 baht (10 euro). The guest house is based in a lane just of Kot-Cha-Sarn road and is within easy reach of the Night Bazaar.

There is a free security room for valuables and the Chinese styled restaurant is wonderful if a little pricey. The hotel has a tour information desk which is well staffed. The hotel offers a visa service and can arrange transport to many of the main cities and towns in Thailand. They also have a deal with one of the local motorbike rental companies. At 200 baht for a days rental (petrol not included but in Thailand it is dirt cheap) you can choose from a large selection of bikes.

NIGHTLIFE

The Rooftop Bar

The Rooftop Bar was as chilled out a pub as you could get. You have to remove your shoes at the entrance and then climb 5 floors to get to the small bar. There is nightly entertainment provided by a sunglasses adorning, bandana wearing dude. The house special is a litre of whiskey and 4 cokes for 200 baht. Sam Sung whisky is absolutely lethal but it tastes nice in the open air feel that the rooftop bar creates. You'll find it on Thanon Ratchason which runs parallel to the moat.

Kafe

Our favourite bar was Kafe which is on Thanon Moon Muang which has contemporary wooden furnishings and a unique homely feel. The cheapest beer available is the Amstel they have on draft (slightly unusual as the Thai's tend to prefer bottled beer). Kafe shows Premiership games at weekends and don't normally abide by Chaing Mai's loosely applied curfew of 12 o'clock.

Irish Pub

As plastic as they come. This so called Oirish pub was actually opened by an Irish woman and her Thai husband in 1994. They have long since departed leaving the current Thai owners to carry the flag. Inside the pub there is all the usual paraphernalia you would expect, they even sell Guinness (in a can!) that is allegedly imported from Dublin. Worth a laugh.

EATING OUT

You are spoilt for choice for food in Chaing Mai. Rice is the speciality with hundreds of different types available.

Phonnon Cafe

This small restaurant is situated near the Phae gate and manages to match good value for money with quality. You can watch the busy vehicles race up and down Chaing Mai's busiest street while basking in the comfort of the soft wooden furniture. We had a breakfast fry up with coffee for 50 Baht each. Service was efficient and courteous and there is a tour service available at the front desk.

Bierstube

Bierstube right in the middle of the night Bazaar caters for German tourists. Although it has some comfortable seating outside it is quite expensive. If you just want a coffee you'd be better served going to Starbuck's Coffee next door.

Art Cafe

This air-conditioned restaurant on a corner facing the Tha Phae Gate. Serving mostly western dishes it affords an alternative to the fried rice/noodle dishes which so predominate Thai food. Prices are a little above average but the standard of the food they serve is quite high. Art Cafe is nearly always busy which is a good measure of its quality.

Galare Food Centre

Ok, this place is a little bit of a tourist trap but it's a nice one. There are free dance shows and Muay Thai (Thai Boxing - show fights only) every night and the huge choice of food available is inexpensive and tasty. The Galare food centre is smack bang in the middle of the Night Bazaar.

Red Lion English Pub

If you pine for a little bit of western European food then this is the place to go. It might be a little bit more expensive than other restaurants but the Shepherd's pie was a nice break from the customary noodle/rice dishes.

ATTRACTIONS

Trekking

This is the premier activity that Chaing Mai has to offer. Most guesthouses lay on deals and there are innumerable trekking agencies spread throughout the town. There is a huge range of choices available ranging from single day treks to week long ones. Most offer free elephant rides and bamboo rafting.

The trek we chose cost us 4000 Baht each for a 3 day/2 nighter and was affiliated to the SK guesthouse. It was a great experience overall even if the guide was totally disinterested. Comfort is one thing you will not be getting on a trek, the sleeping quarters are bamboo huts without mattresses but it all adds to the authenticity. Food was included in the deal although by the third day we were staring menacingly at the village hens.

The hill tribes in the mountains surrounding Chaing Mai are slowly being usurped by modern ways and it is predicted that 20 years from now they may have vanished altogether. While large-scale trekking could be blamed for this situation a lot of tribes depend on the income generated from trekkers to survive and attain a better standard of living. One tribe we visited had recently opened a school as a direct result of donations from trekkers.

Wats (temples inhabited by monks)

Chaing Mai has almost as many temples as Bangkok which gives the city a colourful facade. Wat Buppharam on Thanon Tha Phae has strong links with Chaing Mai royalty. It was built in 1496 by King Phra Muang Kaeo and is characterised by the tinkling bells that adorn its various buildings. One of the more interesting ones is the octagonal room where entry is prohibited to women. The library/museum is lavishly styled in teak and provides a useful resource to the dozens of monks that study there.

Thai Massage

Chaing Mai is well know for its array of Thai Massage establishments. On the whole the prices are much lower than Bangkok (150 Baht for a one and a half hour full body workover) and there are many schools that provide training courses. We went to Jumjim on a small lane off Thanon Changklan which gave a mildly aggressive but ultimately relaxing massage.

Huay Teung Tao Reservoir

We decided to make our way to this lake by motorbike as it is only 12 km out of town. Three and a half hours later we has an extremely kind local man driving in front of us showing us the way. Getting to the reservoir sounds easy but you really do need a local map. Nancy Chandler's map of Chaing Mai is considered about the best.

The reservoir itself is a pleasant way to spend a day. There is authentic seating and a good selection of food is served. The views around the lake are spectacular. You can hire paddle boats for a nominal fee but I wouldn't fall in as the water is dark brown.

Doi Suthep

This national park is 16 kilometres out of town and boasts a summit peak, waterfalls and plenty of places to picnic and hike.

SHOPPING

The Night Bazaar

There is something more interesting about shopping at night than during the day. Perhaps it's the fact that if you get bored you can always nip into a pub for a pint. For those who think this way the Night Bazaar is a godsend. Stretching on both sides of Thannon Chang Klang between Thanon Tha Phae. & Thanon Si Donchai it contains just about every item imaginable. You have to bargain and aim low. Department stores, fixed prices..

There are several good bookshops in Chaing Mai. The best we came across was Gecko books just off Thanon Tha Phae. As well as selling second hand books the shop offers good prices for anyone willing to sell their own books. There are huge fiction and non-fiction sections in several languages. The shop did seem to lack a comprehensive travel section however.

You are spoilt for choice for internet options in Chaing Mai. Most places offer a standard 1 hour for 30 baht. Our favourite cafe was My Corner.com which you can find in the outdoor pavilion that has a huge climbing wall on Thannon Tha Phae. The cafe is very well run, friendly, air conditioned and for your 30 baht you also get a free coffee.

Chaing Mai is a smaller, better laid out version of Bangkok. It's got the nightlife, the vice (at least half a dozen go go bars), the shopping and lots of attractions. Where Chaing Mai excels however is in the natural charm of its people and the relative tranquility that you can find all over town. As the Thai's readily admit themselves, you haven't seen Thailand until you've seen Chaing Mai.
 

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