General: Norway

In January of this year we set off to Norway in search of the ethereal Northern Lights. Tromso is known as an execllent place for viewing the lights - you have a 50% chance of seeing them on a clear night - but make sure you go in the winter when there's a lot more night time in which to see them!

We flew to Oslo first and then changed to take internal flights to Tromso itself - a mere 150km journey between the 2 airports!

Tromso is a small university town surrounded by mountains that lies in the Arctic Circle. It has several 'most northern' claims including brewery and Burger King! We stayed in a log cabin across the bridge from the town centre. It was a peaceful setting, the thick layer of snow on the ground muffled all sounds, even cars seemed to purr along the roads. Coupled with the dominating mountains the town had a magical feel to it.

The rivers were for the most part totally frozen over, creating abstract patterns and formations.

We came prepared with theraml underwear and boots. The temperature stayed at around -5 degrees for our stay, but our cabin was well insulated and heated. You could see the steam rise off it from the outside!

We had hoped to eat out most nights, but the astronomical costs of, well everything really, meant supermarket food cooked in our little kitchen. Fortunately our cabin and flights had been fairly cheap. We still took the opportunity to enjoy the many local bars and pubs and sample the local beer (£6 a pint anyone?). The trick is to completely erase your knowledge of the exchange rate when you're out and to get into the party spirit (or else bring lots of duty free).

We visited several museums which were intersting although not for the squeamish, as much of the regions history as a settlement comes from hunting. We also went on a husky sleigh ride up in the mountains. I've never experienced cold like it. We were given thick padded jump suits and fur hats and mittens to wear but still the cold was biting - apparently the equivalent of -20 with wind chill factor. The huskies were noisy but very sweet and we were given delicious hot reindeer stew when we got back.

As for the Northern Lights, well none on the first or second night sadly, you have to be in the right place at the right time, as they can appear in one part of the sky for as little as a few minutes before disappearing. But on the third night the heavens really did seem to smile down on us. We looked up as we did every night on our way back from town and the Northern lights covered the sky with wisps of green and blue, constantly changing above us. They looked as though they were painted on for us to enjoy. We went deeper into the country away from the town lights in hope of getting a better view and the display continued for around 30-45 minutes. Nothing prepared me for how animated the lights were, they really twist, turn and transform in the sky. The sky seemed vast and empty when they were finally gone.

It isn't an experience I'll forget in a hurry, although I'd love to see them or the Aurora Australis (in the southern hemisphere) again.