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I left my heart in Oman

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5 Apr 1st, 2003 

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patriciat

patriciat

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Member since:22.04.2002

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Whilst this horrendous war that we're currently involved in is going on I find my thoughts drawn back to my stay in the Middle East.

The country I resided in for three months was Oman, where the family joined hubby who was working there.

My visit made such a lasting impression that I thought I'd share it.

Firstly, the reason for us being there was my husband was involved in building a tunnel through a mountain at Muscat, the capital of Oman. This was the first its kind ever ventured. This was to allow the Sultan to drive directly from his palace to his waiting yacht at the port. So if you ever get invited to visit the Sultan, you'll know who to thank for the direct journey you take, cutting out the town centre.

We lived in a small multi national compound where I learned so much about different cultures before I even began exploring the country itself.

My next door neighbour was a brilliant Greek lady who introduced me to their cuisine. A lovely lady fromthe Seychelles taught me how to cook some amazing dishes and another from Africa introduced me to the art of sugaring ("hair removal"). The list of nationalities is endless as is what I learned from each of them. All this learned before I even started exploring Oman itself.

The first thing you notice when you get there is the heat. Such as I have never experienced before or since. Imagine walking into an open oven of Sunday dinner temperature and that's what it felt like.

The country is predominently of the Muslim faith and our visit coincided with the beginning of Ramadam, which is the ninth month of the Muslim year, a time of atonement, and every Muslim is required to observe a strict daily fast and no food or drink is to be consumed during daylight hours until the next new moon is visible.

The only ones spared from this fast are children and visitors to the country are dealt with severely if observed breaking the fast in public.

This was definitely not a good time to be introduced to such searing heat, as you could only quench your thirst in the confines of your own home.

It took me days to summon up the strength to drag myself and two kids the five minute walk to the swimming pool on the complex.

A further five minute walk took us to the shores of the Arabian Sea/Indian Ocean (I'm not sure where it changes from being sea to ocean so I've clumped both together().

I was warned by several residents at our camp that "nice" English women did not venture on to the beach unaccompanied by a man but I thought I wasnt particularly nice anyway and ignored the warning.
Especially as the beach was like paradise with clear blue skies, white sands and many exotic shells scattered around.

It didnt take me long to find out the reason for the warning as a very strange man clad in flowing robes leapt out on several occasions to expose himself.

As he looked a hundred if he was a day, he didnt seem to pose much of a threat so I continued to drag my poor kids past him on an almost daily basis.

Every foreigner who works in Oman has to have a sponsor. Ours was a Government Minister called Omar, who made a lasting impression on me by buying me a gold watch approximately four weeks after our first meeting, for which I will be eternally grateful.

He visited uson a regular basis, often accompanied by his two children

Women are definitely second class citizens here as his wife was never away from her home whilst Omar, clad in his pristine white robe (dish dash) took us on numerous jaunts.

He introduced us to the local coffee houses which are also a closed shop as far as women are concerned and the only females to be seen were Westerners like myself.

Oman is what is called "dry" which means no alchohol but does not enforce this to cover foreign workers and many Omani men befriended us purely to get an invite to your home where religion went up the spout and they supped spirits, which were readily available to us, like good uns.

We met many Omani men whilst living there, but never their wives.

In fact, they seemed to be a taboo subject and as I was enjoying myself so much there, I didn't do my bit for women's lib and press the point but have often thought since what these poor women do all day whilst their husbands and kids are swanning about and entertaining westerners

As my time spent there was not really a holiday, I wont be able to give a proper opinion on a set holiday but will be able to share my experiences of this wonderful country.

As it is mostly desert, you will be amazed at how much greenery there is. The flora is watered constantly as it is a very rich, money no object, sort of a country.

I expected to be catapulted off the plane into a barren desert, but it's not like that at all.

You will be bombarded with posters of the Sultan everywhere.

The towns are beautiful. Again, no expense spared to make them visually appealing.

You will see loads of very expensive cars, quite a few abandoned at the roadside when the novelty wears off.

Although you will see villages with chickens, donkeys, whatever roaming in and out of houses, the overall impression is of great wealth.

Anything connected with the Sultan is opulence itself.

Find a hotel he has commissioned and you will see real gold taps, fountains, lawns and luxury. I'm sure any holiday maker who books a "proper" holiday will be directed straight to such a place.

The souks (markets, usually under cover) are unmissable.

You will be overpowered by the smell of herbs and spices as you enter.

Your eyes will pop out at some of the gold (nearly always 22 carat) on offer. Another unmissable experience.

Oman has some of the most beautiful beaches imaginable. You can walk two feet into the crystal clear sea and watch tiny fish swimming around your ankles.

Some of the beaches are famed for turtles and you can visit them on tours and watch tiny baby turtles upon hatching, rushing towards the sea.

Although it is some years since I visited I sincerely hope that this war will not sour relations with Arab countries and prevent others experiencing the joys that we had on our visit there.

in less troubled times I would recommend anyone with a desire to see different parts to visit this beautiful and friendly country. 

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Comments about this review »

Wanchai05 16.11.2006 12:08

Excllent review of a great country

n13roy 30.05.2005 10:42

Excellent review with some great descriptions indeed. Makes me want to go there now.....Roy

Sunshine22 16.02.2005 09:52

We have been on many trips by air and car to Oman from Dubai and it is as wonderful and friendly as you remember it. I am so thankful for all the beautiful and unusual things that I have been blessed with seeing during the time we have spent in the Middle East. Long may it last ~ Carol

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