Tired of being a smurfette, I've decided to start writing again. Thanks for r/r/c xxx
Tired of being a smurfette, I've decided to start writing again. Thanks for r/r/c xxx
Member since:22.10.2004
Reviews:22
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Before I begin this review, I'd like to underline the fact that I first published this text on the French version of ciao! last August. I translate it now and may change some points. What's more, it's the first time I write an opinion in the "travel" section of ciao.co.uk so I may lack method and organization. I've decided to deal with my travel through Scotland day after day.
۞ Before leaving :
For various reasons, goig to Scotland has been something I've been wanting to do for a few years (discovery, hearing the Scottish accent, knowing if I'll be able to understand it and be understood by the locals). With three other people, we had been seriously talking about it for at least six months when we decided on the dates of our journey.
At the end of July, 2008 we were off to Scotland ...
We left early on the morning on July, 20th and came back at night, on August, 1st.
I'll focus on 10 days of our journey, from July, 21st to July, 29th because we went there by motorhome so we first had to go through England.
Once we arrived in Scotland, we moved from one place to another; Then, we'd choose a campsite where we'd spent the night. A problem was that we didn't book any site because we would have had to send money or give our credit card information, which we were reluctant to do. Well, we were entilted to more freedom on where to stop but on the other hand, we had to stop early in the day.
۞ Our fears :
1° The weather
Even if we left during the Summer holidays, we took with us all kinds of clothes, inluding warm, waterproof ones.
2° The midges
Having read documents on Scotland, we were almost sure that we would not be able to fight midges. We bought some repellent sprays designed to protect the skin, the clothes but were doubtful about their efficiency. "Better than nothing" we thought.
3° Tourists
Being in Scotland at that time of the year, we were wondering if we would find accomodation everywhere, especially near the most popular spots.
Well, let's go and see !
۞ Monday, July 21st
DUMFRIES, a small town in the South-West of Scotland, was the first we visited. The sun was shining (I'm going to put some photos at the end of my review) as to welcome us. It was a pleasure to spend more time there than we had planned.
We were lucky because we found a car park near the town centre. It was the ideal place to park the motorhome. Moreover, the tourist information centre faces this car park and offers free parking devices. You just need to indicate the time you park and you can forget about it for two hours. To me, it's enough to visit the town dedicated to Robert Burns. You won't be able to miss the Robert Burns Centre and its statue.
Today, months after my visit, I'm still enchanted by this first glimpse of Scotland.
After Dumfries, we headed for SWEETHEART ABBEY. It's really beautiful and I noticed the contrast between the grass and the red bricks. The only thing is that you have to pay £3 to go nearer the abbey whereas you can easily see it from a certain distance. The neighbouring cemetery is free.
Last part of our first day in Scotland : CULZEAN CASTLE. It's one of the most famous castles
in Scotland (in the UK maybe), due to its gardens. Well, it was 5:30 p.m. when we arrived so it was closed ! No visit for us : we saw it from the outside and took photographs. If you'd like to enter, the fees are £ 13 for the castle and £8 for the gardens.
We were delighted by this first "Scottish day", the sites and the weather played a great part in its success. We're literally under the spell of Scotland. BUT the problem is that it's 6 o'clock and we don't know where we're going to spend the night. We had the adresses of two campsites in Ayr but as time flies, we decide to stop before eaching Ayr, at Sundrum Castle Holiday Park, in Coylton.
We realized straightaway that it wasn't what we were looking for. It's a place full of caravans and mobile homes (which aren't mobile by the way). There are a bar, a swimming pool, a shop. Well, I had the feeling that people come here and spend all their time here, without visiting what's surrounding. Maybe am I mistaken but it was my first impression.
And as we were there to spend just one night, we didn't need all these facilities.
To start with, the reception was closed. But we were lucky enough to see an office where you can buy or rent a mobile home. The door was open and I went in to explain the situation. I was relieved when the person phoned one of his colleague to get information. In fact, there's a small space for a dozen of tents so she had to check first if we could put ours. Meanwhile, I get an idea of the price : for the motorhome, it's £ 29. And you add the tent, the bill is £ 54! Clearly not our budget, especially because it's quite late and we're not willing to use all the facilities.
We went to the bar to pay and a manager told us where to stay. We'll have to settle for the night in two different areas of the site. I don't know why but the manager made us pay £ 35, which is a far more reasonable price for us. We felt better after this £ 19 cut in cost. Thanks again!
From what I saw of this holiday park, the part where you go to have a shower is really worth it. I think I was in a hotel, it's impressive when you enter the WC block and look out to switch the light but it's automatically on!
Conclusion : A great but tiring day. We take the decision of stopping in a campsite earlier in the day.
۞ Tuesday, 22nd
We're off to LOCH LOMOND !
It is said to be the largest lake in Great Britain (I don't know exactly where I read that).
We stopped in LUSS fot lunch. We didn't have any promblem. In one of ours guides, the area is presented as being crowded in Summer. The car park is even bigger that LUSS! The landscape is amazing, we can't stop taking photographs! We feel happy, quiet and we make the most of our time there, as was the case throughout the « Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park ».
We drove near the Loch Bà, the Loch Tulla and it was indeed breathtaking. The same is true for the Glencoe and I think of the movie "Braveheart", that Mel Gibson came to film here, as I read somewhere.
Then, we went to STRONTIAN to stay for the night. It has nothing to do with the holiday park we visited the day before. Ont hing is that it was raining when we arrived so we had to wait a few hours to put the tent (No need to arrive too early, after all!). Eveything was old, dusty and I didn't even want to wash the dishes or myself there! Luckily I had a thorough shower, shampoo and so on in the morning, at Coylton. Time seems to have stopped there. There wasn't much activities to do and we had a look at the photographs we had taken so far, on the computer, to cheer us up. We paid £ 17,50. That is to say half the price but I wouldn't recommend it to you.
۞ Wednesday, 23rd
Without looking back, we headed for the BEN NEVIS. Before going there, we stopped in Fort William. But given all the information we gathered in all the "Tourist Information" offices, we opted for a walk in the GLEN NEVIS because we weren't sure we'd be able to succeed in going near enough to see it. So we had a more quiet time during the three-hour walk and once again, our camera was often "active".
In the middle of the afternoon, we had to stop for the night. We were wondering what it would be like. Well, I must say that the campsite in Roybridge was exactly the one we were looking for. We had a great view, good facilities and the price was £ 3 for the motorhome, £ 3 for the tent and £ 3 per person (we were 4 of us so that's equal to £ 12). Total : £ 18. Good value for money. I recommend it without hesitating. Personally, I'd go there again.
A good thing is that we were allowed to put the tent beside the motorhome, which is much easier to bring all our stuff.
Not far from the campsite (1 mile), there were a little shop and a post office.
۞ Thursday, 24th
I was eager to visit EILEAN DONAN CASTLE on that day. To me, it's one of the most famous Scottish castles. I think it's the one you see on posters, in leaflets on Scotland in general and in movies.
The cost is £ 4,95. You're free to spend the day there, I think. There must be a guided tour by people wearing traditional costumes (a kilt for men), you can ask them questions. I bought a guide at the same time as my ticket, it cost £ 2,95. I regularly have a look at it to remind me of this great time. I don't regret the visit. It's excellent value for money according to me.
After the visit, I went shopping for food in the village, which isn't far since I went there by foot and it didn't take me too much time.
I was sorry to leave Eilean Donan Castle and its great landscapes but when I saw the loch Carron, the loch Maree, I was enchanted by their beauty.
The next (and last for the moment) stop for the day was in ULLAPOOL. At first it was a fishermen village but now it has become a busy holiday spot. Thinking about it, I'm delighted we arrived early in the day. The campsite is near the centre so we stopped, paid (£ 23, a hot shower will cost you 20 p) and went to the centre.
Pictures of General: Scotland
From Dumfries to Jedburgh via Durness
I went shopping, had a drink at a pub ("UK's first seafood pub in 2004"). At night, I had a traditional haggis in another pub, where a band was playing traditional music. It was really entertaining!
That day was the most fabulous day of our journey : we saw great landscapes, visited a Scottish castle (it's something I wanted to do at least once), the weather was splendid and I could go shopping and have a drink at night.
I wish I could have stayed longer. I do hope that one day, I'll have the possibility of going to Ullapool again.
۞ Friday, 25th
Let's go to DURNESS before going back South to Tain. The roads are designed for one vehicle at the time so we need to use passing places. Fortunately, people there are used to passing places and we never had to face a car without knowing what to do.
We stopped at SMOO CAVE. Not too bad. The beaches we saw in the Highlands were surprising. What I mean is that I didn't expect to see such a blue water in Northern Scotland; I'm going to insert photos at the end of the reviews so that you can realize what I'm dealing with. You may agree with me too!
We stopped in tain for the night. It was rather quiet even if it's between a road and a railway track. We paid £ 30 (+ 10p for a hot shower, but you'll need 2 if you want to have a proper one). We stayed in the campsite and it was okay because the weather was fine but it was too far from the town to go there by foot. The nearby pub wasn't welcoming at all. We went there once and the manager said to us that it was closed in a cold tone. Later on, we went there again but it seemed to be still closed, not welcoming in fact. So we gave up.
۞ Saturday, 26th
LOCH NESS, URQUHART CASTLE : a bit compulsory to stop there, isn't it ?
Once again, I bought a guide and spent as much time as we wanted to. I think we stopped for one hour. A slight drawback was that there was a wedding reception so a part of the castle was closed to the public. We had a superb view from the Grant tower. I don't regret having paid £ 6,50 for the visit. Be careful, you'll need to pay this price even if you just want to go to the toilets! Nice castle but I think I prefer Eilean Donan Castle.
SUENO'S STONE : Be careful not to miss it ! It's not well indicated and the car park is designed for only two cars. This stone is 6 meters high, there are writings on all the sides but you can't take good photographs because it's protected by glass.
Then, we stopped to see ELGIN'S CATHEDRAL. Or what remains of it. I must say that I liked best the walk in the nearby park we had afterwards.
About Elgin's campsite, I must be honest. I don't recommend it at all. You'll find me harsh but I'll explain. As usual, we're looking for two spaces (one for the motorhome, one for the tent), nothing different or original. First thing, the reception is closed whereas it should be open. "Till 8pm" is written, it mustn't have been much later than 4 pm. I ring the bell and wait. And that's when an old man and his barking dog show up. I still wonder who he was. I'm not even sure he was in charge. Maybe he was nosy. Well, he asks us what we want, as if it wasn't obvious but I hardly understand what he replies. I think (but even today, I'm not 100% sure) he wanted to know whether we had booked, which we hadn't. So we had to go further. I was appalled at having been "welcome" in such a way.
Fortunately, in Fochabers (Burnside Caravan Park), the receptionist was really nice and helpful. We paid £ 27 (I could use my Solo Card) for a space with electricity. We could put the tent next to the motorhome. We could get water, there is an indoor swimming pool, a playground for kids and a room with games and TV (in case the weather isn't fine). I'm deeply satisfied by this campsite ad its location (we could walk to the village to shop at the Co-op). I recommend it. It's a good thing we weren't allowed to stay in Elgin after all!
۞ Sunday, 27th
We stopped in Banff to see the Duff House (not open at the time of the morning we stopped) and a market cross in the town centre. It was worth stopping there!
Then, we went through Fraserburgh, Peterhead, Cruden Bay and stopped in Aberdeen. We didn't stay for a very long time so we focused our visit on the old part of the city (St Marchar's Cathedral, King's College). It was much more lively than our previous visits in the Highlands!
After that, we stopped at Dunnottar Castle. But the weather was dreadful (it was rainy, foggy and cold). So I didn't want to make a complete visit. Our photographs aren't very good either.
Lochside Caravan Park, Forfar was where we spent the night. We arrived shortly before 4pm and we had to book our space in the nearby shop.
The receptonist (who was also the shop assistant) was very nice. So nice that I thought I didn't hear very well when he told me that the price was £ 15. What a bargain! The only trouble is that the showers weren't finished. I've seen only 8 shower blocks. I didn't know how it was working (apparently there wasn't hot water in the ladies'shower) and the shop was closed when I went to inquire. So (I can say it now) I went to the men's!
۞ Monday, 28th
First, we bought some food and postcards in SAINT ANDREWS. As the weather was wet and overcast, it wasn't worth taking photographs. It's a shame but it didn't happen very often. In fact, whenever the weather wasn't fine in the morning, it was okay in the evening. So we could put our tent and stuff to dry without any problem.
Then we stopped in Edinburgh. I wanted to visit the castle but there was so many people waiting in the queue so I thought it would have to be done if I go back there one day. Definitely. So I chose to go to the "Royal Mile" to buy souvenirs. I know it's not original. Well, I can't say I liked it because there were too many tiny shops and there were the same things in all of them. In my opinion, it's better to have a walk in the city centre, do whatever you like and only when you have to go, enter a shop and find whatever you want.
At that time of the year, we saw some shows in the streets, which were fun although I can't say I understood what the people were saying!
I did like Edinburgh, which is not a polluted and grey capital as others. I didn't even get lost, which is a good omen!
I've decided to go back there one day. Maybe just for a weekend.
Then we stopped at theThirlestane Castle Caravan Site. The receptionist was really nice and showed us where to stay (even if there are two different areas for motorhomes and the tent, we weren't far from another). No need to pay for a hot shower. We couldn't go to see the nearby castle because it was closed. The town centre where you can shop for food and have a drink for instance isn't far. I walked till there.
۞ Tuesday, 29th
A short stop in JEDBURGH was our last one in Scotland. Time to put postcards in postboxes, to have a look at the cathedral and Mary Stuart's house for a few months. It was closed so we didn't visit it. We bought our last Scottish gifts in the tourist office and, well, we had to leave Scotland (it had to happen anyway).
Conclusion :
+ We were very lucky with the weather
+ We didn't get any midges !
+ We were delighted with what we saw
+ Scottish people are really very nice (but for Elgin's campsite)
BUT
- We didn't have the chance to see « Highland games » (it was either too early or too late)
- We couldn't visit everything we wanted (however, it would have been hard to visit all the sites)
I hope you liked my review and that it has been of some use.
Nice review of what sounds like a great tour around Scotland - shame the weather wasn't good in St Andrews, but (having lived there for 4 years) I can confirm that it's often like that!
redeyes22 16.11.2008 21:53
great review aggy
scotlandizdabest 16.11.2008 21:09
I have to say I love living in Scotland so much, the weather and midgees aren't fab, but you cannae beat the food and people! Excellent review! x
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Advantages: Pretty fast, reasonable service, wine has high alcohol content Disadvantages: Not always reliable, cattle class is crowded, tickets are expensive
marymoose99 01.11.2008 (01.11.2008)
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