I was lucky enough to spend Christmas 2004 and the first week of January 2005 in Singapore and it was a fantastic experience.
Apologies for the length of this review but there's so much to say about Singapore. I've divided the review into sections so you can skip to the bits you're interested in. I'll also add more in-depth reviews to the other sections in the Singapore travel page rather than writing too much here about the different areas.
**Singapore airport** Singapore airport is often credited as being the best in the world and it certainly is the nicest airport I've ever used. Singapore is often praised for its cleanliness and the airport reinforces this view of Singapore. Much attention has been devoted to decorating it and it has a gym, trees and so many shops. I went to Singapore with two friends and we had a problem at arrivals because our baggage hadn't arrived. We'd flown from Japan and had to change planes at Malaysia where we were delayed for two hours. The luggage from the Japanese flight hadn't been loaded onto the plane so when we arrived at Changi Airport at 10 pm we were informed that our luggage would be arriving on the next flight which was due to arrive at midnight. Thankfully we didn't have to wait as the airport staff took the details of our hotel and dropped the luggage off for us. It wasn't a huge problem for us and the staff at the airport were very polite and explained exactly what was happening so nobody really minded. Throughout the airport's arrivals section there are large signs listing the various transport options to your hotel. You have a choice between taxi, minibus or the Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) System. My friends and I decided on the minibus because it worked out cheaper than the taxi. Due to tiredness I'm not positive of the cost but I think it was around £2.30 each. The minibus desk is right outside arrivals so it's easy to find. The minibuses take you to any hotel on the mainland for £2.30 no matter where your hotel is. In the arrivals section there's a money exchange booth where you can change money and also buy international phone cards.
**Transport** Virtually the only transport I used was the MRT. The MRT runs mainly underground and it takes you practically everywhere on the main island in cool, air conditioned comfort. If you intend to use the MRT then buy a Ez-link card from any information booth at any station. The plastic card costs $15 (just under £5) and $5 of this is a deposit which you get back along with any remaining credit when you return your card. When you need to top up your card just take it to one of the numerous user-friendly machines and add more money. The great thing about these cards is you don't have to take them out of your purse or wallet when you want to use them. You just tap the card reader screen and you're off. Your card balance is shown on these machines so it's easy to check how much money you have left. Fares are slightly cheaper using an Ez-link card and start from around 20p and go up to around 55p for a single trip. It's only about a 6p saving if you use a Ez-link card rather than cash but you'll save so much time and hassle using one. The stations and trains are very clean and easy to use. When you know the line you want (check any board at any station. A map of the lines is also printed on some of the free leaflets that you can pick up anywhere and if you're using a guide book the it should have a map of the MRT in it) you just go to your side of the platform and wait. Trains run from 6am to midnight and at peak times they go about every three minutes and at other times every six minutes. The stops are announced both on a flashing board and over a tannoy so it's unlikely you'll have any problems.
Taxis are clean and cheap and the drivers I had were friendly and more than happy to recommend places to eat or visit. I rarely used taxis though because the MRT goes practically everywhere and it's faster and cheaper.
To go to Sinapore Zoo or the Night Safari (they're next to each other) you have to use a bus. Like the rest of Singapore I found the buses to be clean and efficient. You can use your Ez-link card on the buses as well which makes travelling really easy. Unlike the trains the buses don't announce the stops. For the zoo this was fine because the bus takes you right up to the entrance. Going to Haw Par Villa in southern Singapore was trickier because you have to know and be able to see the stop name to get off. Luckily I was sat next to a lovely lady who saw me fretting and told me exactly when I should get off. I should probably add that I NEVER use buses in the UK, I always drive instead so this probably had something to do with my lack of understanding of buses.
Basically, public transport in Singapore is clean, punctual, efficient, cheap and easy to use. MRT stations are everywhere so you can't really get lost.
**Hotels** I stayed at the Madras Hotel in Little India for the two weeks I spent in Singapore. It's difficult to give a good description of hotels because they vary so much. A dorm bed in a hostel is under £10 a night. Hotel rooms start from around £26 a night for a basic air conditioned private room with a bathroom. If you have money then a deluxe hotel like Raffles will set you back around £130 to £220 a night. Every area of Singapore has somethng to suit every budget so if you want to go to Singapore then just have a look in any guide book and see what takes your fancy. My friends and I shared a family room at the Madras with air conditioning, shower, balcony and TV and it cost us about £11 each a night. Amazing value for money.
**Eating** If there is a food god/goddess then he or she would dwell in Singapore. In Singapore I ate local delicacies, pub grub, Indian curries, Mexican meals, tasty Thai dishes, Chinese noodles, gorgeous pizza, vegetarian burgers and chips... I could go one but I'd need a few hours. Whatever you want you can find. Obviously for Indian food check out Little India and for Chinese food then head to Chinatown but it's possible to get just about anything anywhere. Holland Park has an excellent mix of everything. You just have to follow your nose! The hawker centres are dirt cheap and have wonderful selections but I personally preferred going to a restaurant or cafe and eating outside. In the two weeks I didn't have one bad meal. If you don't eat at the very posh places the £10 or £15 should be the absolute most you'd spend if you wanted a starter, main course and dessert. Most of the time I spent £5 or less.
Apart from my one Singapore Sling at Raffles, I didn't drink any alcohol and I didn't go to any bars or clubs in the evening so sadly I can't give any advice on partying. To drink the famous Singapore Sling I went to the Long Bar at Raffles where the dress code isn't as strict as some of the other bars. For £7 I had a Singapore Sling and souvenir glass and I was allowed to throw peanut shells on the floor. While from the outside Raffles Hotel is nowhere near as impressive as it once was, th inside really does take you back to another era.
**Things to do** For the very young to the very old Singapore has something for everyone. If you're like me and love history then there are a fair few museums to visit. The Chinatown heritage Museum was amazing and one of the most interesting museums I've ever visited. Entry for an adult is only £3 so it's not expensive either. This museum really gives you a feel for how Chinatown used to be with its excellent reconstructions. The Asian Civilisations museums (there are two) were both fascinating as well but they contain a lot of exhibits and you may find yourself suffering from information overload at the end. Temples are another love of mine and because of the diverse cultures in Singapore you'll find Chinese temples, Hindu temples, mosques and churches. The Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown, the Sri Veermakaliamman Temple in Little India and the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam are definitely worth a visit. Temples are free to visit (although a Hindu temple in Chinatown charges £1 if you want to take photos) but the opening times vary quite a bit. If you're interested in military history then the Changi War Memorial is worth a visit. Singapore Zoo and the Night Safari are fascinating and should interest all ages. Entry is around £5 for adults and £3 for children. If you have children then the science museum and Snow City should keep them occupied. The Esplanade theatres were showing a good selection of shows, musicals and dramas when I visited and the top-price tickets were around £35 but check the Esplanade website for up to date details. Cinemas in Singapore are less than £3 but they are very chilly so take a jumper. While in Singapore I did a few guided tours - I forget the name of the company but you'll see plenty of leaflets for them - and I'd really recommend them. They cost about £6.50 each and take around two hours. There's a different tour on every day and they look at all aspects at Singapore. The evening brothel tour round Chinatown was very interesting.
**Shopping** Singapore is a paradise for those who like to shop. Orchard Road is crammed full of designer shops amd also some shops you'll find on any British high street. If you like music or films then check out HMV because the prices are lower than in the UK. Singapore uses the PAL system like the UK but the DVDs are region 3 so check if your DVD player is compatible before you go. Video Compact Discs (VCD) are what I stocked up on. Singapore and Hong Kong both use VCDs instead of video tapes and the prices range from £1 to about £5 for a movie. Most DVD players will play VCDs and all computers with a CD-ROM will. It's a film on a CD so no special features but great prices. If you're after electronics then go to Sim Lim Square about half way between Bugis MRT and Little India MRT. Electronics are cheaper than the UK and you can also claim the 5% tax back at the airport. Plugs are the same as the ones used in the UK and the instruction manuals are in English. Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam and Bugis are great for shopping and the prices are really good. You can buy a cashmere pashmina for £5, jade jewellery that starts at about £2, silk scarves for £6, gorgeous Chinese snuff bottles that start at £2.50 and if you like crystals then Singapore's the place for you. You can have your aura read for less than £10 and in Little India a parrot will aid his owner in predicting your future.
The worst thing about shopping in Singapore has to be the pushy shop owners. They're a nightmare and won't leave you alone even when you've bought something.
Haggling for electronics and in small shops is possible but it's not something that I'd ever do. I did witness people successfully haggling but the prices are so low that personally I wouldn't do it.
**Weather** The December weather was great. It was about 28 degrees most days and it wasn't unbearably humid. Singapore's temperature seems to stay around 30 degrees but it gets more humid in the summer. I went during the rainy season and the rain was fantastic for clearing the air although there were a few days when the rain didn't stop.
**Other information** Singapore is small. The main island is only 26 miles in length so it's easy to find your way around. Singapore also consists of 63 smaller islands. About 3.3 million people live in Singapore permanently with nearly 80% of the population being of Chinese descent and the rest made up of Indians and Malays. You will find a large number of foreign residents there too. English is compulsory in schools so virtually everyone can speak some English although ability naturally varies greatly. Singaporeans come across as being friendly and helpful although occasionally too helpful. There's a lot of green in Singapore and the Singaporeans like their trees so the view is usually stunning. There's an awful lot of huge buildings but I didn''t find the place as oppressive as Japanese cities. Feng Shui plays an important role in architecture so everything seems to flow together. I really liked the bright colours and smells of the place too. I didn't find Singapore as Draconian as some guide books make it out to be. Yes they will fine people for spitting, littering, not flushing a public toilet etc but I don't think it's that bad a thing and I almost wish the UK would introduce huge fines to combat the problems we have in the UK. You'll find plenty of mugs, T-shirts and magnets stating the punishments so it's certainly not a taboo subject. In reality it's also very difficult to enforce the fines so it's not something you want to worry about. Sinapore does have the death penalty and it will be doled out as punishment for those dealing and bring in drugs so if you like using dangerous, illegal substances, Singapore probably isn't the place for you.
My friends and I are all women and Singapore is a safe place for female travellers. We were all quite happy to off on our own and do our own thing without worrying so for female travellers Singapore is great.
If you're travelling from the UK the don't worry about buying an adapter for your electrical stuff because Singapore accepts the 3-prong plugs.
I paid £400 for a return flight from Japan to Singapore and it took six hours. I think you can flights for around £600 from the UK and the flight takes around 14 hours (I think but don't quote me on that).I hope this information helps anybody thinking of going to Singapore. I'd definitely recommend the place.
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