In January we visited Sri Lanka, on a package tour from the Tradewinds brochure. We didn’t really know what to expect, but we found a country full of culture and history. This is our experience...
Day 1 – travelling. An early morning (direct) flight from Heathrow took us to Columbo. We arrived early in the morning (03.30) and the heat and humidity hit us as soon as the aircraft doors opened. Immigration and Customs clearance were quick and efficient and we left the airport through a high security cordon. Lots of soldiers and military hardware were in evidence throughout the 15 minutes drive to our hotel, the Tamarind Tree. A room was waiting for us and we crashed out until 11.00.
Day 2. When we awoke it was time for some further rest, under a clear blue sky, by the swimming pool – bliss!
Day 3. An early start as our driver collected us at 07.00 to start our tour. He gave us some facts and figures about Sri Lanka including its religious beliefs. But, it soon became evident that one belief supersedes all others – this is absolute faith in the power of the car horn. Pedestrians rely on it to protect them as they blindly step from the pavement
into busy main roads, cyclists likewise as they weave an unsteady path down the middle of thoroughfares, but most of all, vehicle drivers as they overtake on blind corners and the brows of hills.
Through the protection of the car horn we arrived safely at our first port of call - Anuradhapura, to see the impressive remains of an ancient civilisation. We also saw the sacred Bo Tree, believed to be an offshoot of the original tree under which Buddha gained his enlightenment. A walk to its site took us past heavily guarded military posts, set up here after a massacre of some 83 pilgrims ten years earlier. Fortunately we survived to tell the tale.
Then after a lunch of dal and rice it was back on the road to our overnight destination, the Deer ParkLodge at Giritale. En-route we saw a good deal of the security forces and passed through many checkpoints. The views along the way were stunning and helped to keep our minds off less pleasant matters.
Day 4. A short journey from the hotel took us to Polonnaruwa and more impressive ruins, including what looked like the set from Indiana Jones & the Temple of Doom! Unfortunately this was also the start of our visits to ethnic crafts, in this case woodcarving, and the inevitable hard sell. But, we resisted and moved on to the impressive Rock Fortress at Sigiriya, complete with its raunchy frescoes and stunning views over the surrounding countryside.
After a late lunch (dal and rice) it was time for more hard selling at the Batik Factory and a spice garden before a bumpy and misty drive up to Hunas Falls for our overnight stay. Oh, I nearly forgot, this was also when the monsoons made an unscheduled appearance outside of the rainy season!
Day 5. A wet drive back down from the hills to Kandy and our first Gem Shop of the day, a further two were to follow as our guide collected in some old debts, but we resisted all temptation (and sales pressure) to buy anything. The best part of the day was our visit to the Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawela. It was a delightful experience watching the elephants bathing in the river and then being fed. In fact their meal was marginally more interesting than our dal and rice – but by now, what wasn’t!!
On the way back to Hunas Falls we stopped at the Botanical Gardens in Kandy, but had to be driven through them because of the heavy rain and risk of leeches! Still we did get out to look around the Orchid House and it was well worth the effort.
Day 6. Fortunately the weather was much improved when we woke up and this allowed us the opportunity to walk outside and admire the impressive hillside views from our hotel. A brief photo stop opportunity at the falls from which the hotel takes its name and then it was off to Kandy.
This time we avoided all Gem Shops and went straight to the Temple of the Tooth. This is a Buddhist Shrine reputed to house a tooth plucked from his funeral pyre. It is also the site of a recent lorry bomb blast and the signs of the damage, as well as a heavy security presence were all too evident.
After Kandy it was time to head for the hills and a fascinating visit to a tea plantation and factory. We learned that tea comes in six grades, with levels of tannin and caffeine increasing the poorer the grade becomes. Not surprisingly the poorest grade (6) - floor sweepings previously used for compost, is snapped up by Tetley’s and others for their tea bags! So now we know why the insides of teapots are so badly stained. Interestingly it only takes 36 hours from the withering stage for the leaves to become tea.
After a nice cuppa it was back into the car for a long climb up through the hills. On the way our guide introduced us to the delights of Red Bananas (delicious) and Jack Fruit (yuk). Lunch was taken in the middle of another downpour at a local restaurant with stunning vistas. Surprise, surprise yet another nice meal of dal and rice was waiting for us! We climbed up through the rain and cloud to over 6200 feet for an overnight stay at St. Andrew’s Hotel, Nuwara Eliya. It was too wet to explore, so the cribbage board was brought out for its one and only appearance. A hot water bottle in our bed was a welcome end to a wet and miserable evening.
Day 7. We were woken by the mullah’s early call to prayers, it may not have woken the local Muslims, but it certainly woke their dogs. After an early breakfast it was back on the road for the long drive to the south coast and Galle. The drive down through the hills was spectacular, or would have been but for the low cloud and rain, but during the odd recess it was stunning.
After a long and very wet drive, during which we sampled another local delicacy – King Coconut, we arrived at the stunning and romantic Lighthouse Hotel, Galle. Oh, by the way our lunch stop made a pleasant change – a buffet with lots of dal and rice! We had a lovely room, complete with a sea view and our very own waterfall as the rain cascaded off our patio. As it was so wet anyway we went for a swim in the hotel’s outside pool! To make matters worse it was National Day and no alcohol was sold. Still tomorrow could only get better.
Day 8. It was better, at least for a little while. The sun shone, the sea was blue and everything seemed perfect. After breakfast we visited the picturesque old fort, before setting off for Colombo. We drove parallel to the coast admiring the deserted beaches along the way. We had a very brief motorised tour of Colombo. Modern high rise hotels mixed amongst shanty towns and lots of seriously alert security personnel. All too soon it was time to say goodbye to the Tamarind Tree hotel and Sri Lanka.
OUR VERDICT There was more evidence of the troubles than we had been expecting, but that did not spoil our holiday. It is perhaps a sad fact that we quickly got used to the sight of armed guards.
Sri Lanka is a beautiful country, its people very welcoming, and I am glad we visited.
The tour was well-planned, and I would recommend Tradewinds for this type of tour. It only cost us £45 for the private car option – which was well worth it, as there was only 2 in a car, rather than a crowd on a bus.
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An interesting account of your 8 day visit! I have lived in Asia for a few years and also travelled as a tourist and if you are ever wanting to visit a similar place to Sri-lanka (minus the small troubles) Kerala is very much recommended, take care, ciao!
CareBear 29.05.2001 17:58
I should explain myself - why the helpful rating? I thought that this was a wonderful trip report but it didn't really offer that much in the way of opinion.... if you do ever add to it let me know and I will rerate. Sounds like a very interesting destination. Claire
danieletheridge 25.05.2001 07:40
I agree with you about the lighthouse. My dad works as a journalist on the cricket, and he was out there reporting, and we were lucky enough to go and visit him and stay in the lighthouse! Points you could consider adding: YOUR opinion, like what you thought about the Batik factory, and do you like dal and rice?! Cheers, danieletheridge.
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Advantages: Steeped in culture and history, Beautiful equatorial climate , Amazing sights sounds and experiences Disadvantages: Heat can get oppressive, Water undrinkable - use bottled at all times. Terrorist incident at airport unfortunate, but likely to be a one off.
Pauley123 12.10.2001 (15.10.2001)
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful
Review of General: Sri Lanka
Advantages: Very Cheap prices. Beautiful Country full of historical sights and friendly people. Hotels are all excellent and reasonably priced Disadvantages: It's great for laid back people but be careful if you are a very active person and not into the whole sightseeing gig
MJRules 09.04.2001 ·
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Review of General: Sri Lanka
Advantages: Keep this in mind next time an evil tortoise threatens YOUR village Disadvantages: Not one for the big tour groups - this place is tiny inside
koshkha 30.05.2009 ·
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Review of Dungtse Temple, Paro
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