"Sri Lanka, A land like no other" is the slogan of the Sri Lanka Tourist Board. I can't endorse or deny this, as I was only there for two weeks. But in those two weeks I discovered a beautiful country, met some friendly and helpful people, and came away with some great memories.
You can see ads for packages to Sri Lanka in the weekend papers, and you can also pick from a choice of oversized featureless resorts from the glossy brochures. Before you visit your High Street travel agent, let me tell you about my experience of the Island, and in particular; Unawatuna.
Looking at the map, Sri Lanka looks similar in size to Wales. Don't fall into the trap thinking that you can speed around the island in a couple of weeks, ticking off the cities and sights. Roads can be in bad condition, and traffic moves very slowly. I split my time between Unawatuna on the South coast and Kandy, an old colonial city in the highlands.
At a push, you could include a third destination, but my years of intrepid travel are over and I fancied taking it easy.
BEFORE YOU GO UK passport holders do not need a visa. Check the Forign office website for security information. Sri Lanka's civil troubles have been limited to the North East of the island, and the capital, Colombo. The areas I visited (including Unawatuna) are considered safe. Check you've got the right jabs too (most local surgeries don't charge). Some people recommend Anti-malarials, and some don't. Be safe, you can get a handy pack from your chemist. A pack of Palludrine and Avloclor will cost £14, and it contains enough tablets to take one week before leaving, two weeks in Sri Lanka and four weeks after returning. The Sri Lankan Rupee is a closed currency, so cannot be bought outside the country.
GETTING THERE All the usual flight websites should be visited to get the best deal. Sri Lankan airlines has direct flights from London, every day, plus flights that stop in Male (Maldives). The cost is high, make no doubt about it. A good alternative is Emirates. They fly from Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow to Dubai, from where they have onward connections throughout Asia and Australia. I paid £490 from Birmingham, a lot of money to get somewhere, but costs in Sri Lanka are very low; So one set of costs does offset the other.
There is only one international airport in Sri Lanka (Katunayake, Code CMB), and disembarkation is by aircraft steps and buses. Remember to ask for assistance when you check in if you need it. Your first test of patience in Sri Lanka will be the passport queue.
There are no banks/ATM's in Unawatuna, and Visa/Mastercard are not widely used. There are plenty of Bureaux de Change in the airport, just after customs. This is the best place to change money; GBP, USD and Euros are all welcomed.
Unawatuna is three to four hours drive from Colombo airport. A word of warning here; You will be tired after the flight from Europe, and arranging transport when you arrive is not recommended. The airport is chaotic, and you will be facing swarms of touts offering taxis. Many will try to help you with bags etc in the hope of a tip. Even a hand on your trolley is deemed worthy of a pound coin to these guys! (Yes, the resourceful Sri Lankans will accept foreign coinage as tips!) You would be doing yourself a favour by organising your airport transfer at the same time as your accomodation. All of the guest houses in Unawatuna will offer airport pick-ups, and will arrange these if you send an email. Expect to pay around US$20 for this.
As I described earlier, the drive is slow and will drain you further. Drivers will happily stop for you to use a toilet, or to get a tea or coffee (tip: if you don't specify, your coffee will arrive very milky loaded with sugar!) Drivers may try to interest you in stopping at craft shops and the like, or talking about cricket, but in general they respect that you will be tired, and leave you in peace.
UNAWATUNA Getting here, I have described is a mission. However, everyone that comes here soon forgets about it's remoteness, and realises what a gem of a place it is. Unawatuna is one of a few resorts that is away from the busy main road. The guesthouses are small and friendly, and fit in well with the surroundings. Don't expect big flash hotels with pools and tennis courts and nightclubs. Do expect peace and quiet, comfortable and clean accomodation, a good variety of eating places and of course; the beach.
The beach forms a big crescent around the bay, and most guesthouses have access. The water is clear and warm, and waves can be quite powerful. Don't forget to bring goggles or a mask; you will see gorgeous brightly coloured fish, and if you are lucky (I was) a turtle or two (tip: keep a distance from turtles, they aren't harmful, but you may cause them distress)
The beach doesn't get very busy, and local life goes on around you. Fishermen repair their boats, and local children play in the water whilst their parents stroll along the sea front. Stray dogs and cats may come cautiously sniffing around, but they don't cause any harm, and are easily frightened. The locals are proud of their beach and someone will promptly appear with a spade if a dog does it's business on the sand!
Surfing is possible, but there are hidden rocks. Most surfers gather at the West end of the bay, it would be wise to consult other surfers before venturing out.
Beach sellers prowl around, but they are easy to move on. After a few days, they leave you alone to prey on more recent arrivals. Some of them are good value, others aren't. If you are below 35, you may be offerred drugs. The authenticity of these offers I cannot verify, for I have no interest in drug-use. Simple advice is to say no.
Away from the beach now...
FOOD AND DRINK If you're missing the food from your native land, you will find it here, albeit to varying standards. If local food is a must when you are on holiday, and if you are fanatical about seafood - You will be well catered for. Food is fresh, well cooked, and portions are huge. A main course is never more than £3! Establishments realise that Westerners are wary about tap water, salad and non-peeled fruit, so these are never offered.
Weekly barbecues can easily be found, and are well worth it; huge slabs of tuna, snapper or portions of chicken, with lots of accompaniments. Any Brit who frequents Curry houses at home will be in for a real treat when they order curry.
Soft drinks cost small change, water even less, and a big (625ml) bottle of beer is just over a pound.
Tipping is not expected, but any small coins left over are welcomed.
Waiting staff throughout the area are very friendly, and love the chance to talk to you about your country (It helps if you come from a cricket playing country!)
SERVICES Although Unawatuna is an undeveloped area, locals are happy to help you, and will always find a way. They can arrange laundry, taxis, make phone calls for you or even charge your camera battery. Elsewhere, there is a small internet cafe and a book exchange. Numerous craft shops offer textiles, wood carvings, masks and other souvenirs.
THINGS TO DO Unawatuna is a beautiful and unspoilt hideaway. Don't expect to be active here. There is plenty to do elsewhere in Sri Lanka - Elephant trekking, white water rafting, scuba diving, Buddhist temples and tea plantations. I spent my time after Unawatuna doing these things, and regretted starting at Unawatuna. It would make instead for a lovely 'wind-down' to an extensive tour.
SUMMARY This is a stunning place, and well worth a long flight, and a long drive. It's expensive to get to, but you can be extravagant when you arrive and the Rupees appear to last forever. You won't have the familiarity and convenience of the big hotels, but you will experience friendly locals, eat well, relax and feel safe. You can price it all from the UK, and the money you spend is going into local family businesses rather than big holiday firms.
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