St Kitts is wonderful - the sugarcane, the rainforests, the whole lush, tropical feel of the place. But don't forget its little sister, Nevis - such a beautiful, sophisticated little island! An ideal break is spent shared between the two islands, appreciating what they each have to offer.
In terms of accomodation, forego the Four Seasons and the ghastly Marriott, and opt for the plantation inns. They're what these islands do best - full-on colonial grace and sophistication. Golden Rock on Nevis is the budget option, with its slighty hippie vibe, rainforest walks, resident pet parrot and the most amazing lobster sandwiches. Ottley's on St Kitt's is smart and upmarket, but has a slightly more developed, corporate feel which some might find off-putting. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with Montpelier plantation on Nevis, and Rawlin's on St Kitt's.
Montpelier is gorgeous - think English country house by the sea. The grounds are fabulous. The food is to die for. And the new American owners are making huge improvements to the place - and I mean improvements. It was getting a bit faded when they took it over, and they've introduced smart, contemporary-traditional touches in terms of decor which only add to the already lovely atmosphere. Dinner is a joy, wth the Lincolnshire-born chef producing stunning contemporary Caribbean and European-influenced dishes.
I've never felt such a disinct sense of peace when entering any hotel as when we drove on to the grounds at Rawlins Plantation. We were shown to our gingerbread cottage, sweetly furnished with a four-poster and antiques, and left to bliss out until afternoon tea arrived on out porch. We befriended the lizards skittering about, had a peep inside the ruins of the sugar mill (now the honeymoon suite), strolled around the grounds being shown all the plants and trees by Paul, the owner, and had one of the best meals I've had in the Caribbean, cooked by Claire, Paul's wife. There was no TV, no cheesy minibar, not even a clock in our room - the whole point is to relax and forget there's a nasty world out there waiting for you. It was with real regeret that we finally left Rawlin's.
Outside the plantation inns, there are suitably gentle activities. Basseterre in St Kitts is a pretty little town, worth a stroll and some people-watching. Brimstone Hill fort is a world heritage site, and it was important strategically during the sugar wars that raged between Britain and France. On Nevis there is the small Nelson Museum - Nelson spent a fair amount of time in these parts, even marrying a Nevisian woman. There's also the Bath Hotel, the first hotel in the Caribbean, which is currently undergoing heritage restoration, and Betty's Hope, a restored sugar mill.
There are also great places to eat, like Banana's on St Kitts - gorgeous fusion food, spectacular views - and Miss June's, which is not so much a restaurant but a life-changing experience. Miss June cooks in her house for up to 30 guests, and the Trinidadian buffet is huge and delicious. The experience is communial, bizarre and unforgettable - Miss June is a delight. Just ask Oprah - she loved it there, too.
Nightlife: Sunshine's Bar on Nevis is legendary for its Killer Bee drinks and the eccentric clientele often peppered with celebrities. And Eddie's on St Kitt's (Basseterre) is the place to get down and dirty with the locals. But most beach bars on both islands are great for a "short pants lime" - that's local jargon for a relaxed, chilled out booze-up.
Enjoy these islands - they are a reminder of what the Caribbean used to be, and hopefully will retain their less developed, unspoilt atmosphere for some years to come.
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Sounds fabul;ous. I'd heard about Miss June's on television,Jo
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KatherineA 12.08.2004 19:29
Great review! I'd love to go back and Nevis and enjoy it. We only went over for a few hours one day and so had a whistlestop tour and then it was back to St Kitts.
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Aug 12th, 2004
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