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Glacier Express Tour

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4 Jan 15th, 2003 

6 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
wonderful scenery

Disadvantages:
touristy in places and not cheap to buy drinks

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

Ease of getting around

PoohBear71

PoohBear71

About me:

I am 32 and live in Leeds with my husband. I have just set up a new website selling handmade person...

Member since:15.01.2003

Reviews:4

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We wanted something a little bit different when we went on our honeymoon. We were fed up with the standard European beach resort full of other English people. However, we were also somewhat limited in budget; we didn’t have three grand to blow on a mega holiday after paying for the wedding.

In the end we found a 3 centre Glacier Express rail tour in Switzerland offered by Crystal Holidays. This was 10 days split between 3 resorts all half board. It promised a relaxing holiday with great scenery and the opportunity to see several different places. Another key thing about this tour was that it was only semi-organised. This meant that we would not be restricted to the normal 2-hours-here, a-half-day-there that most touring holidays involve. But it also meant we didn’t have to worry about meticulously planning rail connections and booking hotels ourselves, which would have been the case if we had done it DIY.

We flew from Birmingham airport early on a June morning direct to Zurich. The flight proved to be a good start – it was economy but basically a business flight and offered decent food, leather seats etc. We landed on time at the airport but didn’t need to collect our bags – these would be transferred directly to our hotel. The rail station is actually underneath the airport and our itinerary provided by Crystal told us we needed to get a train from there to Zurich HB (the main station). This was just 5 minutes away. We went down the escalator and after a couple of minutes the train arrived. Not like your average British train: this was a clean, quiet, double-decker train. We stamped our rail-pass and got on. We’d paid a £35 supplement to travel 1st class, but there was really very little between them on this train (NB this 1st class pass is now included as standard).

Anyone that travels regularly by train in Britain will know what the train sounds like when moving in and out of a big station – screeching and scraping sounds galore. This was nothing like that – we were out of the station before we even noticed we were moving! That just about sums up the trains, so I’ll skip to our arrival at Thun. This is in central Switzerland on the other end of the Thunersee (a lake) from Interlaken. It was just a short boat ride (10 minutes) from there to our lakeside hotel in Hilterfingen.

The hotel was called the Bellevue au Lac. We were given a room on the 4th floor with a balcony overlooking the lake – fantastic view! The food here was excellent – 4 course meals every night and a good continental-style breakfast. We had 3 nights here, and we were ideally located for exploring surrounding places. The nearest big towns are Thun and Interlaken. Both were very nice although Interlaken was crawling with tourists. We spend another day in Bern, the capital of Switzerland, which was just 30 minute train journey from Thun. This is very nice city, and much smaller than most capitals.

Perhaps the main attraction in the region is the Jungfrau Mountain. However, it is very expensive for the train to the top and we chose to visit Wengen instead, which was quieter and much cheaper to visit.

The transfer to our next resort – Zermatt – involved quite a long train journey. However, we were able to arrange luggage transfer locally so we didn’t have to carry our bags around. This was quite a blessing for us as I suffer from M.E. and don’t have very much energy.

Zermatt is the main town serving the area around the Matterhorn – perhaps the most famous mountain in the region. We got a little lost in the town finding our hotel, but we got there eventually! It was a small place called Hotel Le Petit. The décor was a bit disappointing after the Bellevue au Lac – rather dingy – but the couple that ran the hotel were very friendly and the food again was excellent. Zermatt really exists only to serve the tourist visiting the regions and was quite a busy place. However, there are no cars at all in Zermatt – just little electric buggies that all the hotels seemed to have.

We spend a lot of the time in Zermatt travelling up the different mountains by rack-railway or cable car. The area is very popular with hikers although we didn’t do much walking because of my M.E. The views are spectacular but a coat is recommended in the highest places where there was plenty of snow! However, if you are not into serious walking you eventually get the feeling that once you’ve seen one mountain you have seen them all. We were there for 4 nights and I think this was probably enough.

The trip to out final resort – St. Moritz in Eastern Switzerland – was by the famous Glacier Express train. There was a slight hiccup the day before we departed when the Crystal Holidays rep told us that the restaurant car was overbooked and we wouldn’t be able to eat (we had prebooked the seats months before). However, after some heavy arm-twisting by us and another couple, Crystal sorted it out. The train journey was fantastic and the scenery was amazing. However the trip was very long and tiring – 7 hours – and this was the only train we got in Switzerland that arrived behind schedule, but only 10 minutes late!

St Moritz was perhaps the most disappointing of the three places. Although very pretty it was definitely aimed more at the winter season. With hindsight we might have been better choosing Davos as our final resort (there was a choice of the 2). The hotel – the Laudinella – was clean and comfortable but the food was a rather mediocre buffet-style affair.

After our three days here it then just remained for us check our baggage in at the local Railway station and head back to Zurich for our flight home.

In summary this was an excellent holiday for the money. It cost about £650 each (including flight supplements) for 10 nights half-board. This included all the train transfers and the Glacier Express. This compares very favourably with a stay in a single resort. For example, a 7 night holiday in the Bellevue au Lac would cost £500.

I’d strongly recommend this holiday to anyone that wants something relaxing, or to go walking. We don’t have children so I’m not sure how much this would appeal to them (the hotels didn’t have swimming pools, for example). However, for something a bit different, it was great.
 

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Comments about this review »

Collingwood21 15.01.2003 13:54

Hi, welcome to ciao - great review, very detailed. I have only been to Switzerland briefly, but what I saw was indeed beautiful and I wouldn't hesitate to go back there, given the opportunity!

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