A friend and I spent a week in Syria, looking at historical architectural sites. We started in Damascus and spent a day seeing such things as the Umayyed mosque (a must) and the market. We then picked up a hire car and headed north to Hama. The water wheels (Norias) on the Orontes river are an interesting feature and there is a range of budget accomodation available. From Hama we travelled East to Krak De Chevaliers. If you're a castle nut like me allow a whole day here. This is in my mind the single most impressive "Norman" castle, and was worth the visit to Syria by itself. Next we visited the castle from which the Assasins originated, while en route to Margat on the Mediterranena coast. Margat was superb. Its location high above the sea is breathtaking, and we were the only visitors there! Next we tried to visit Saone, but alas the castle sites all close at 16:00 and we were too late. There followed a rather hair-raising night time drive back to Hama (not recommended!). After these castles, Palmyra. The Roman remains are fantastic, but so are the tower tombs. While here we managed to find our wat into the desset and to the "Palace of the West". There are no roads so you need dry weather, a good map, a compass and luck.
Accomodation is available very cheaply (typically 10 - 20 dollars for a twin room). Meals out are likewise absurdly inexpensive.
I long to return to see what we missed. The people are extaordinarily friendly and genuinely interested in (what must be quire rare) visitors. It is this friendliness and the vast array of remains that stick in my mind.
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Oct 12th, 2001
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