When I decided to go to Tobago, I definitely didn't want to do the usual package trip to the Caribbean. I managed to find a cheap flight with British Caledonian (the later you book, the cheaper it is) and booked a room in a private bed and breakfast via the internet in the sleepy fishingvillage of Speyside. The whole thing was much cheaper than a package trip and the B&B I stayed at was really warm and friendly. (For those interested here is the link to the site www.caribinfo.com/countryhaven/ ).
Speyside was well off the beaten tourist track and most of the non-locals were there to dive as this part of the coast has some of the best diving and snorkelling waters in Tobago. Speyside was also much hillier than the flatter, more touristy, Pigeon Point - so not necessarily for those who have problems walking. From the B&B, the views of Speyside Bay are breathtaking. It is only a short walk down the hill to the 'town', which is nothing more than a string of shops and a couple of bars and restaurants on the sea front.
When you walk down the street the local fishermen offer you fishing trips to the nearby island of Little Tobago. Little Tobago is a bird sanctuary and nobody lives on the island now. There are also organised tours to the island but you will find the fishermen a lot cheaper - although it is best to speak to the fishermen directly and not through a tout. We had rather a nasty experience with a tout called Issac, so always be a little cautious before handing over any money.
Speyside has one of the most popular island restaurant's - Jemma's Treehouse. The restaurant built into a tree overlooking the bay. The seaviews are spectacular. The food is fresh and the fish is the local speciality. Don't however make the same mistake I did and turn up a Saturday. The owners are apparently 7 day Adventists and the restaurant closes for the weekend - it also serves no alcohol.
Speyside's sister village, Charlotteville is either a hairy bus ride or a very strenuous hike away. The buses do actually run to a timetable and were for the most part on time. Tickets, however need to be bought in advance from the local store. Tell them where you are going and they will issue you with the right ticket. As the road dips into (drops away into would perhaps be more accurate!)Charlottevile, the views are amazing. Like Speyside, Charlotteville is a sleepy fishing village, very much away from the tourist circus with a hidden treasure. Follow the road to the end of town and continue on the path until you can go no further. At the end of this path is the kind of beach you imagine being marooned on. Again it is a bit of a hike, but well worth it.
The place to eat in Charlottevile is 'Sharon and Pheebs' in 'town'. They do the best curried goat I think I have ever tried and the shrimps are something else!!
Despite travelling around the rest of the island and visiting the usual tourist spots (Bucco Reef, The waterfalls, Scarborough etc.), I still found that I liked this part of the island best. It is certainly the place to go if you want to avoid the crowds!!!
If you want to know more about Tobago I am currently constructing a website about the island with photos. It is not finished yet but I'm working on it - the address is www.geocities.com/mancsoulsister
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Advantages: different Caribbean experience Disadvantages: costs
sting_of_the_scorpion 29.03.2006 (31.03.2006)
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Review of General: Trinidad and Tobago
Nov 2nd, 2001
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