Tobago ought to be kept a secret. Once you discover it you don't want to share it, but I'm going to anyway. Tourism is the island's main source of income, though you wouldn't know...I thought I was the only tourist there...
This place has been left behind in a world obsessed with material things. Tobago people are genuinely nice to each other, the children are a joy - well mannered, shy and pretty. Even the road sweepers wish you a nice day - and mean it. Physical crime is literally unheard of in Tobago - unlike nearby Trinidad. Church is popular on sundays, - and the sabbath respected. You can't get petrol on sundays - everywhere closes - but then so what?
The majority of beaches are untouched by man. No bars, hotels or jet skis. Just azure blue water, fish, rainforest and warm white sand. Here, despite the poverty of the people, protecting the environment means saying no to big hotels. Common sense rules. What
a relief. And how much we could learn from these people.
I haven't just had a holiday. I feel like my soul has been rejuvenated.
I usually go self-catering, and always pack a few essentials that I know will make life easier if I have them to hand – travel iron, mozzie coils, world band radio, my favourite coffee, etc.
I've just stayed at Tobago's Plantation Beach Villas, and thanks to new manager, Philip Dawson and his team, - all I needed to bring was my sun lotion and bikini.
As soon as I entered my pretty salmon pink villa –'Poinciana' – I felt more like a resident than a tourist. Absolutely everything was provided. The attention to detail made me feel instantly at home.
Shirley, the villa's dedicated maid, was busy arranging fresh flowers, and welcomed me like a long lost friend. The huge fridge was full of ice cold beers, eggs and bacon, and there was a basket of tropical fresh fruits and fresh bread to get me started. Ground coffee was waiting to go into the coffee machine. The kitchen was brand new and equipped with more mod cons than I have at home.
Mosquito coils and matches were thoughtfully provided, as well as books, board games and the latest local newspaper. I literally wanted for nothing for my first 24 hours in Tobago. No need to check where the nearest supermarket or off license were. I was ready to chill out.
There are six beautiful colonial style villas amongst mature tropical gardens on a little hillside sweeping down to Stonehaven Bay. Sitting on my 40ft open verandah sipping my cold Carib I could see the pool and the sea. Banana and cocoa trees leaned over the white fence, little banaquits balanced on the calabash bird table eating bits of paw paw Shirley had left for them, and within minutes I'd spotted the famous Mot Mot, staring at me from a branch of pink bougainvillea. The birdsong was non stop.
The villa had 3 double bedrooms, all en suite with showers large enough to hold a party in and lots of fluffy towels. When I came back from the beach, my freshly laundered clothes were there laid out on the bed by Shirley. I checked the news on cable TV, then slipped a Norah Jones CD onto the hi-fi provided.
This is turtle nesting season, and a few nights ago a rare leatherback was spotted on the beach right infront of my villa, taking an hour and a half to lay her eggs. There are organised groups in Tobago set up to protect turtles and to supervise tourists wanting to watch this amazing event.
Tobago teems with wildlife. It's incredible. My little daughter became quite blase about the little iguanas and bright blue coloured birds that accompanied her as she ate her breakfast outdoors each morning. I took books to read but they weren't even opened. There's just too much to watch and take in.
There are several fabulous water and boat trips to choose from. We snorkelled and saw as much sea life as previously on scuba trips. A trip into the rainforest was incredible. Do take a qualified forester with you though, it's not a place to venture into alone.
The birds were still in full song as I nodded off on the verandah, hoping Christian, the villas' personal nightwatchman, would remember to wake me at the first sight of turtles coming onto the beach to lay their eggs.
I found the villas on a website called www.simplytobago.co.uk It has a lot of photos of the island and useful info for tourists. This was a special trip to Tobago - and affordable because of a special offer, booked at the last minute only weeks ago. The villas are luxury - but were only about £160 per night inclusive of taxes. I think they still have special offers on. The flights were just £345 from Gatwick, London, with Monarch. We ate out a few times. Restaurant prices varied but a good meal cost about £8 for steak or shrimp and rice with local vegetables. There are some lovely restaurants. But our favourite thing to do was to buy fresh fish from the beach in the afternoon - groupa, kingfish or snapper - and BBQ it on our verandah, eaten with some local bread and homemade coleslaw. Four fish steaks cost about £3. Incredible. We shall go back.
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Advantages: Sun and warmth all year round, beautiful beaches, great for families or singles Disadvantages: Tourists tend to be ripped off with prices and you need a car to get around
Mar 29th, 2003
(Apr 3rd, 2003)
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