Like many European capitals, Edinburgh is highly walkable. As a local resident, I often find walking quite effective, especially in the congested town centre. Be advised, however - like Rome and Lisbon, Edinburgh is built on seven hills - and they're steep. It can also be pretty cold when the east wind blows, and pretty wet any time. If the climate is really friendly, their are few more beguiling cities to walk in. And there are some fascinating hidden gems, so wander off the beaten track by all means.
Unlike many European capitals, there is no metro, or trams and few suburban rail links. A tramway system is under construction, but more of that later! Buses are the main way of getting around, and most of them are run by Lothian Buses. These go pretty well everywhere and run every 5 -15 minutes during the day, every 10-30 minutes at off peak times, and 30 mins to 1 hour during the night. As of April 2008, there is a flat single fare of £1:10 for adults, and 60p for children. An all day unlimited travel ticket costs £2:50 and is highly recommended. Buy one from the driver of the first bus you get on. Be warned, they don't give change!
There are red ticket machines situated at most bus stops in the city centre. Single trip tickets can be bought from them for £1, and day tickets are also available. Like the buses, though, they don't give change.
A weekly ticket costs £13, and can be bought from one of Lothian's travelshops (there's one on Waverley Bridge, just outside the railway station and one on Hanover Street, just off Princes Street.) These can also provide printed timetables and other valuable information.
Most bus stops have printed timetables, and quite a few have real-time electronic displays showing the time till the next bus. Edinburgh suffers from chronic traffic congestion, especially at morning and evening peak hours, so don't take the timetables too literally. However, Princes Street is now open to buses, taxis and cyclists only for most of the day, and this has helped. Last buses run at about 11 to 11:30 pm
On the other hand, be warned. Preliminary utility diversion work ahead of construction of a tramline from the airport to the city centre and Ocean Terminal has begun. From now until 2010 there will be major roadworks in the heart of the city, and inevitable delays to traffic. The current plan is that Princes Street will be closed to all traffic from January-August 2009. Other main streets are currently closed but all works will cease in time for the Festivals in August. If visiting outside these periods expect parts of the city to look like the buidling sites they will be.
Night buses cover most major routes, and a ticket costs £2:50, valid all night. They run until 4-5am, more or less when the regular services restart. Day and weekly tickets are not valid on these.
Previous reviews about the helpfulness or otherwise of the drivers are quite accurate, but of their time. It appears that a lot of work has gone into customer service in the last few years. Drivers are usually cheerful and helfpful, but their job is stressful, and they're always in a hurry, so get your tourist information some where else!
Once again, I would advise walking around the major sights in the city centre. The Castle, for instance, is only ten minutes walk from Princes Street and can be reached by a scenic (but steep) walk through the gardens across from the station. If you want to orient yourself, a range of city tours on open -top and vintage buses leave from Waverley Bridge. A ticket costs £7:50 to £8:50 and allows you to jump on and off the bus all day. The express shuttle bus to the airport also leaves from and arrives at Waverley Bridge, and costs £3 single, £5 open return, for the 25-30 minute journey.
If you're a cyclist - leave the bike where you are staying.Apart from being very hilly, Edinburgh is scary for cyclists, as some local drivers have a real attitude problem towards two wheel road users, although some of the latter don't help much sometimes. There is a growing number of dedicated cycle lanes which you might sometimes have to share with taxis and buses. There is a fair network of cycle paths based on old railway lines which are well maintained scenic and quiet. An organisation called SPOKES promotes cycling in the area and provides maps and a lot of helpful information. They're on the web.
Taxis are expensive, but not extortionate, and usually easy to flag down on the street, but demand tends to outstrip supply on weekend evenings, especially in the city centre, so book in advance when you can. Taxis are usually black, and of the same appearance as the London variety. Some pubs, and most restaurants will call one for you before you leave.
Despite a reputation for standoffishness largely promulgated by residents of Glasgow, we locals are a helpful bunch in general, so if in doubt - ask. However you choose to get around, thanks for coming, and enjoy!
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