Gibraltar

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All those queues - must be Britain

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4 Jul 19th, 2001 

48 Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful

Advantages:
The Rock is fascinating, amazing views and scenery, cute baby apes !

Disadvantages:
Long queues at the border, the town is not that nice

Recommendable Yes:

Detailed rating:

Value for Money

Sightseeing

Shopping

Nightlife

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Pumpkin

Pumpkin

About me:

Yawn...

Member since:28.04.2001

Reviews:252

Members who trust:261

I recently went on a day trip to Gibraltar whilst on holiday in Marbella (see my Costa del Sol opinion for information about Marbella itself!) I had heard a lot about Gibraltar and was intrigued to find out what it was like. For those who don’t know, Gibraltar is a tiny settlement which is actually part of Britain, however, it is tacked on to the South of Spain on the Mediterranean Coast, (which could explain what it is doing listed under “Spain” on Ciao)! It was originally a very important military installation and Naval base, as it is at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. It still has a strong Naval presence: the airport and much of Gibraltar itself are still owned by the military, however the Naval influence is no longer as important as it once was. Gibraltar itself still causes squabbles between Spain and Britain. Many Spanish people feel that it should be made part of Spain, but the British, and more importantly the people of Gibraltar, do not feel that this should be the case.

I was keen to visit Gibraltar, the idea of it being part of Britain, but in a place so unlike Britain in terms of scenery, climate and people, fascinated me.

As a tourist, there are two main ways to access Gibraltar (excluding boat trips): firstly, by air. Between 1969 and 1985, this was the only way you could get into Gibraltar. The Spanish border was closed, and you could only gain access by flying from Britain, or by crossing from Spain to Africa and then back to Gibraltar. In 1985 these laws were relaxed and you can now cross the border from Spain once again, either by car or on foot. We ended up doing so by car. We had been told that there was a car park on the Spanish side where you could leave your car and walk across, but if there was it was not well-signposted as we didn’t manage to find it! Before we knew it we found ourselves in the traffic queue so decided to keep going! The Spanish town that you come to before the border is called “La Linia”. This is not somewhere I would recommend visiting. Although it has a beach, and when we visited there was also a circus and fairly permanent looking theme park, it seemed extremely bleak and very run down in places. We later learned that it has a severe Class A drug problem. We got a good look at La Linia, mainly due to the fact that the queue of cars waiting to cross the border took around three quarters of an hour to progress! Going back was a similar wait – although we were later told that this was moderate, and on some days, for example when the British have beaten Spain at football(!), the queue to get back into Spain can be anything up to 5 hours. This led us to believe that it is sheer awkwardness and pedantic searching of vehicles on the part of the Spanish officials which causes the long queues! Do be prepared to have your vehicle searched as they carry out random checks on around one in five of the cars crossing from Gibraltar into Spain.

The most important fact to remember when visiting Gibraltar is that you need your passport in order to cross the border. Don’t be fooled - even if you are British, you still need to show your passport, as entering Gibraltar from Spain is just like going through Immigration when you return to Britain from a holiday abroad. The only time you would not need a passport would be if you flew from mainland Britain to Gibraltar and were not intending to cross the border into Spain. The signs also request vehicle identification documents, although in our case these were not checked and the passports received only a glance.

Once in Gibraltar, we decided to park the car and go off and explore. The majority of people seemed to park in the car park belonging to the main shopping centre, but we found one (by chance!) just on the outskirts, called Queensway, which although shabby and uninviting, was extremely cheap, costing 40p an hour for the first two hours and 15p an hour thereafter. Worth remembering when driving in Gibraltar is that although it is part of Britain, most cars are still left hand drive and all drive on the right hand side of the road! Also, currency: again quite complicated! The main currency is Sterling, but be prepared to receive some coins and notes specific to Gibraltar in your change. In theory these should be accepted in mainland Britain when you get home, but I doubt that many retailers would be prepared to take them, so it is best to dispose of your loose change before you leave. Spanish Pesetas are also accepted by many establishments, but you may receive your change in Sterling.

The town centre of Gibraltar is a little odd. I did have trouble getting my head around the concept that it was part of Britain, not least because of the heat, which was perhaps why I felt slightly ill at ease there! It has all the shops you would expect in Britain: BHS, Tescos, Dorothy Perkins etc. plus a few others I have never heard of! There are many cafes and restaurants where you can sit outside in the town square and eat – they mainly serve British “delicacies” such as bangers and mash, pie and chips and fry ups. This was a shock to the system after enjoying nearly a week of delicious continental cuisine! On the plus side, everyone speaks English – although the majority of people in Gibraltar are bi-lingual and do speak with what seems like a Spanish accent (although probably wouldn’t to a Spanish person!) English is the first language, but children are taught Spanish from the age of around 11. Many of the locals speak Spanish as their language of choice, but it is a dialect, which incorporates some English words, some Spanish, and some peculiar to Gibraltar itself! So, unless you were a native you would probably have trouble understanding two people from Gibraltar talking to each other! On the whole I didn’t like the town centre much. It was not very clean (especially compared to Marbella where I had spent the preceding few days!), the public toilets were disgusting, and were also closed at one point – apparently for one hour whilst cleaning was carried out; despite this they were still disgusting when they re-opened – and the people in the tourist information office were extremely unhelpful and we felt like we had caused them a great inconvenience by daring to go in and ask them a question!

Fortunately, Gibraltar redeemed itself in my eyes with the Rock. I am sure no one can fail to be aware that the main feature of the area is the Rock of Gibraltar (namesake of many British pubs!), which towers imposingly above you and is visible for some time on the approach through Spain. There are two ways of visiting the Rock, as private cars are not allowed on there. Firstly, the cable car. We didn’t choose this option, so I don’t have information on prices etc. but the only advantage I could see of this was that it takes you right to the top of the Rock, which I am sure would give a stunning view. Other than this, you probably miss out as it takes you on foot to a single destination, and you don’t have a guide with you. It was much too hot on the day that we visited to do any extensive walking so we didn’t take this option!

The second option, which we chose, is one of the many Gibraltar taxis. These are specifically for the purpose of taking people on tours of the Rock. All the drivers are registered and wear identification badges, which is very reassuring. You can pick up a taxi either from a rank in the town centre or from just inside the border after passing through customs. The price of a tour varies depending on the number of people in your taxi. Each taxi takes up to 6 people and the minimum charge is £28 for four people. Any less than this and you share the cost between you. Any more, and there is an additional charge of £7 per person. On top of this there is another £7 for entry into the Upper Rock nature reserve (an integral part of the tour – it’s not worth doing it if you don’t pay this charge!) Also reserve some money for a generous tip – if all the drivers are as good as ours then you will want to give one! The tour takes around 2 hours and is worth every penny. Our guide was very knowledgeable, having lived in Gibraltar all his life and previously worked for the Navy – he knew the place inside out and could answer whatever questions you cared to throw at him.

Sites we visited on the tour included:-

• St. Michael’s Cave – an amazing underground cave with a myriad of stalactites and stalagmites, which has been turned into a concert venue, with the addition of lasers, coloured lighting and a sound system – has to be seen to be believed and I should imagine a concert there would be an amazing experience, although the seating and staging are basic. I would imagine some purists could think that the caves should have been left as natural as possible and in some ways I agree, as at least some of the natural formations must have been removed to accommodate the concert venue. Refreshments and toilets are available here – the only place I spotted them during the trip!

• Moorish Castle – an interesting building with a fascinating collection of artefacts displayed inside. There are lots of steep stairs in here so it’s not ideal for young children or people with mobility problems. If you climb to the top you can take a walk around the ramparts, for another lovely view.

• The Pillars of Hercules Monument – ancient people in Gibraltar believed that Hercules pulled apart the two continents: Europe and Africa – and that the Rock was one of the “pillars” left behind when he separated the two, the other being part of the coast of Africa. They believed that Gibraltar could be the end of the world – in the days when they thought the world was flat, and if you went any further you would fall of the edge! Hence, they referred to it as the gateway to Hades! This is also an excellent vantage point, as you can see both the Spanish and African coastlines and an aerial view of the Naval base and docks.

• Great Siege Tunnels – Gibraltar has around 46km of inter-linked underground tunnels used in previous conflicts. On the tour you visit just one of them, which has been turned into a museum. You can walk through it to see displays which show what it would have been like when it was used for cannons and ammunition. The tunnel was dug by hand, and took just under a year to dig – difficult to believe when you see its length, especially when you consider the time taken to construct the Channel Tunnel using machinery! Bear in mind that what goes down must come up – a leisurely stroll downhill through the tunnel means that you will have a trek uphill on the way back! I power walked up, but then I am a bit mad when it comes to exercise!

• Barbary Apes – possibly the attraction for which Gibraltar is most famous, the apes who live on the Rock. They are quite small, but do bite so you are warned against touching them. Our driver, however, seemed to know them very well (apparently the drivers have names for many of them!) and was feeding them peanuts by hand! He let me feed a couple of them and I felt totally safe! At the time we visited, many of the apes had recently had babies, and we saw several three week old baby apes who were very cute!

I can highly recommend the taxi tour of Gibraltar as it was fascinating, both from a historical point of view and from taking in the breathtaking scenery and views. The town itself is nothing special, and the long waits at the borders are very boring, and would be worse if you had small children in the car. Luckily our car was air conditioned, but it would have been hell had it not been!) but seeing and learning all that we did made the visit worthwhile, and a recommended day out if you are in the area. I wouldn’t recommend spending any longer in Gibraltar, as it is not really a holiday destination, and has few beaches or attractions, other than those mentioned in this opinion.
 

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Comments about this review »

Kirsty1 24.01.2004 11:28

We've just booked a long weekend in Gibraltar for May - staying in The Rock hotel (of all places!) Hence my reading this op now. Thanks for the info Hannah - nearer the time I'll be printing this off to take with us :o) Kirstyxx

timmyotoole 26.07.2001 23:10

A stunning op on what sounds like a stunning place... to be honest I'm going green (well not really) with envy as I doubt I'll ever get to go there. Cheers, Timmy.

Dalesman 24.07.2001 21:57

This is another of my ' must do' visits, your Op certainly whetted the appetite........nice one ..Thanks Andrew

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