Gosh, I am bored this afternoon. It’s a holiday, and I feel I should be doing something, however my hubby is working all afternoon, and so I have been a little lazy. I even watched the BrazilTurkey match this morning, without being forced to. Anyway, continuing in the theme of Travel reviews, I would thought I would write about a town that is a little more closer to home that my last few opinions!
I live on the West Coast of Scotland, and it is about 45 minutes drive on a good day, to reach the town of Glasgow. I first moved to Scotland in 1993, and so I have had plenty of opportunity to sample the shopping, nightlife and culture in this town.
Getting to Glasgow -----------------------
Well, if you like you can fly in. Glasgow International Airport is about twelve miles west of the city, and has great links via the M8 motorway. You can use budget airlines like Easyjet, but if you are coming on a weekend, then you can get good deals with British Airways and British Midland too. Alternatively, you could use Ryanair, and fly to Prestwick, which is then about fifty minutes by train to the Centre of Glasgow. Ryanair have offered flights in the recent past for as little as £0.50 each way plus taxes!
Alternatively you can use rail links. Glasgow Central Station is well served with links to the South. Virgin often have good deals, and you do see tickets for as little as £9, if you book early. My sister does the route fairly regularly from Cornwall, god help her!
Glasgow Queen Street Station typically serves cities and towns North of Glasgow, and you can also get the Edinburgh shuttle from here.
Finally, and probably the most recommended if you are in the North of England, or indeed in Scotland, is just drive. Manchester to Glasgow takes about 3.5 hours, and it is a real easy drive, with pleasant countryside and hardly ever any congestion.
Shopping ----------- Ok, let’s start with the shopping. I truly believe that Glasgow has got the widest range of shopping outside of London, and I think that is now official.
One of the newest areas is the Buchanan Galleries Shopping Centre. This houses John Lewis as well as other High Street stores, such as Next (on three floors), Boots, Link, Lakeland, Anne Harvey, Thornton’s, Ottakers, Comet, you get the drift. It isn’t a huge shopping centre, but it is modern. It opened in about 1999. The car park runs to about eight levels multi-storey, and like most city parking, does incur charges. However, I never find it that offputting, for a typical day’s shopping. There is an eating area at one end of the shopping precinct, although it is only fast food outlets predominantly. There are two restaurants/café’s in John Lewis itself, and Habitat has a nice café too.
One of the things I like about this shopping centre, is that if you go up to the top floor, of John Lewis, which is generally just an admin desk, there is usually a local Art Display, and you can purchase originals if you so desire.
The Galleries Shopping Centre is at the top of Buchanan
Street, at the corner of that Street and Sauchiehall Street, a quite famous shopping area in Glasgow. To be honest, Sauchiehall Street isn’t that different from anywhere else in the country, and I always head down Buchanan Street to the shops there. However, if you do head down Sauchiehall Street, you will find one of the town’s two Marks and Spencer’s.
Part way down Buchanan Street, you will find an entrance to Royal Exchange Square, which contains a few shops. It also meets up with Queen Street, on the other side, and leads through to the Merchant City eventually.
One of my favourite galleries of all is the Princes-Square shopping centre, which is adjacent to Buchanan Street, prior to reaching St Enoch Street. Princes Square is full of designer shops, so make sure you have plenty of cash, or plenty of credit cards. If you don’t, it is still a good place to visit. There are plenty of restaurants and bars from which you can people watch. You also find plenty of stalls selling art work, and jewellery. It is also a good place for a more unusual gift for someone. I could spend hours in here.
On the other side of Buchanan Street to Princes Square, you may or may not spot a little eating place called the Willow Team Rooms. These tea rooms were opening at the turn of the last century. They were designed by Charles Mackintosh for Kate Cranston. So if you want to go and sit in a real Mackintosh chair, go here! I don’t think you can book however, and there is often a queue for a table, so I recommend you try this place on a week day if possible, or out of the normal rush hour for dining. It is reasonably priced, and you can purchase a little bit of Mackintosh memorabilia too.
Crossing over Argyle Street, with Central Station back on your right, you will arrive at the St Enoch Shopping Centre. This is the largest undercover shopping area in Scotland. It opened about twelve years ago. To be brutally honest, since the opening of the Buchanan Galleries Shopping centre, I hardly ever go here. It does contain larger branches of Boots, and contains the Debenhams and BHS stores though, as well as a whole host of smaller shops. It is famed for its glass roof, but other than that it is nothing special. The shopping centre is at the start of the main shopping area of Argyle Street, where you will find the other Marks and Spencer’s branch, amongst other items. Further along, you will link back up with Queen Street, and the Merchant City Area.
The Italian Centre is another area full of designer stores, and café’s. A trendy part of town indeed. There are plenty of old buildings in this area too.
Phew, are your feet hurting yet? You have now done full circle. However, if you want to sample some real culture, go to the Barras Market in the East End. All the cheap knock off goods you ever wanted….lol!
Somewhere to Drink ------------------------- Let me tell you, there are plenty of good bars in Glasgow, and some nights it felt like I had been in all of them. So here are just a few of my regular haunts:
The Counting House, is one of the JD Wetherspoon Chain. It is worth going here as the food is cheap, and the drink is reasonable. It is absolutely huge however, and if you want to find someone in here, best to meet them outside first.
Waxy O’Connor’s, talking about meeting someone outside, that leads me to this haunt, Waxy O’Connor’s. It is on Dundas Street, close to Buchanan Tube Station. The bar has lots of different levels, and sometimes you can see someone you know, but it is hard to actually negotiate your way to them, because of all of the confusing levels. It is an Irish themed bar, and the food is once again, pretty good value.
The Drum and Monkey, on St Vincent Street, is very hectic at the weekends, with business people, as are most of the bars for that matter! Vroni’s is my favourite choice of wine bar, but you can also find the All Bar One chain in the city. The Pitcher and Piano, on West George Street is another favourite location, too convenient for my old office, and once again does great food. Bar 38, across the road from the Pitcher, has great Happy Hours, and wonderful, tapas style dishes. The toilets in here are a little unusual too.
The new Aussie bar, Walkabout, only opened about six months ago, and is situated near the UGC cinema.
Finally the Horseshoe Bar continues to draw in the crowds, whether they are tourists, business people or shoppers. The bar is in the Guinness book of records as the longest bar in Britain. When you go in you will be stepping back in time, as nothing has changed in here. If you want to eat, you can get a “three” course lunch for about £3! Fine cuisine it ain’t…but its ok.
Somewhere to Eat --------------------- Well if it is curry you want, it probably should be at Crème de la Crème, which is just out of town at Finnieston. This opened in the early nineties, I believe, and it is one of the largest restaurants in Europe. It is housed in an old cinema. The other curry house I frequent is the Killermont Polo Club, although this is just out of town. Bombay Blue on Hope Street are also pretty good, and will be cheaper than Killermont.
OK, now for Italian. You could try Leonardo’s, which is a chain of restaurants in Scotland (and maybe England, I am not sure). My regular branch is on Bothwell Street, which is just as you come off the M8, Eastbound. Here you can get great pasta dishes as well as Pizza. It is reasonably priced and they do half price pasta and pizza before 6.30pm. If you want more upmarket Italian, then my favourite has to be L’Ariosto, which is down Mitchell Street, close to Buchanan Street. Alternatively try Sarti’s and the café, which is fabulous and has tables in the actual Deli part. Di’Maggio’s, just off Buchanan Street, is another great spot for lunch.
My favourite Chinese restaurant is Ho Wong, which is down York Street. This is the other side of Argyle Street, towards the Clyde. The area has been run down for years, but don’t let that put you off. However, the area is being renewed anyway. I have been frequenting this place since 1994, primarily for Business Lunches, but we have visited in the evening too, for their set menu. It certainly isn’t the cheapest Chinese food in town, however. I think it will be about £25 for the set menu, and lunches are about £8 for two course. Cheaper Chinese Restaurants are the China Sea and China Palace, or mid range, try the Amber Regent, or the Peking Inn.
Another great restaurant which is a combination of Asian cooking styles, is Café Mao, close to the Merchant City area. We ate a great two course meal plus wine there a few weeks back, and it came to about £50.
On to Thai Food. If it is luxury you are after, then you need to go to the Thai Fountain, on Woodside Crescent. On the other hand, if you are just after something a bit cheaper, try the Thao Royale on Argyle Street. I have eaten in both, and would gladly do so again.
While you are in Woodside Crescent, you could try Nairns. This is the restaurant belonging to Nick Nairn, the TV chef. The cuisine here is Modern Scottish. The restaurant is in an old town house. My only grumble here, was that the table for two was very close to another table for two, to the point where I didn’t feel we could chat that openly. It would be worth booking in advance, and specifying your table requirements, so as not to spoil your evening. The menu changes every few weeks. You will pay about £30 for a three course dinner. There is also a cookery school here. Another expensive option is Rogano’s in Royal exchange Place, this serves seafood, and has a nautical feel to the place, based on the Queen Mary. “Yes”, on West Nile Street, is a slightly more down to earth option, and a favourite of mine is Papingo’s.
Continuing on the Modern Scottish Theme, and 78 St Vincent Street is worth a try. It caters mainly for Business customers at lunch time. I had my 30th Birthday party in here though, as they have a private function room. The food is reasonably priced. The building itself was formerly an old Embassy, not sure which one.
A little way out of town on the A77, is a great favourite restaurant of mine, The Cook’s Room. This opened in about 1996, and seats about 24. It is so cosy, and the food is great. If you go, please tell Tom I sent you!
And if you really must, you can go to TGI Fridays on the corner of Buchanan and Gordon Streets.
A good source for deals in restaurants is the website www.5pm.co.uk which has offers on for tonnes of restaurants in Glasgow, as well as other locationsin the UK.
Nightlife ---------- Now, before you base your evening entertainment around my recommendations, I cannot say I have night-clubbed in Glasgow often. This is because: 1) I haven’t night-clubbed anywhere that much, 2)I am not the nightclubbing type, and 3) If I don’t get the 1130pm train home, then it costs me £50 in a taxi, which is rather too much for a night out!
Definitely my favourite nightspot is Arta. It costs about £7 to get in, but is an upmarket spot. It has several different dance floors and bars with different Mediterranean themes.
Another option is Corinthian, which is just off George Square. This is similar to Arta’s in that there are several different bars and dance floors. It is a little more expensive to get in.
Note I am over 30 (you would already know that if you are paying attention) and married so bear this in mind too, as this might reflect on the type of club I prefer!
Phew, that’s over 2200 words and I have only covered eating, drinking and shopping. What else is there to do in Glasgow, I hear you ask?
Museums and Art Galleries --------------------------------- One of the best things about Glasgow is that many Art Galleries and Museums are free to enter. The Hunterian Art Gallery is situated near Glasgow University, and contains paintings by Hunter, but also a replica of Rennie Mackintosh’s Town House. The University is located beside Kelvingrove Park. You will also find the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum here, and this is Glasgow’s Main Gallery.
The Museum of Transport, is dedicated to …err, Transport, whether it be car, motorcycle or train. There are plenty of restored carriages and the like in here, and it is definitely worth a visit.
Glasgow Green is a park which is adjacent to the Clyde on the East Side of the city, and it is here where you will find yet another museum, this one contains exhibits which are social and economic history, which personally I find the most interesting types of museums.
Back to Queen Street, and you can visit the modern Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art, which only opened about six years ago.
The Tenement House, is a National Trust Property, and there is an entry fee of about £3, unless you are an NTS Member. This tenement flat has been left exactly as it would have been a the turn of the last century and it has four separate rooms to view.
Other Things to Do ----------------------- Well, as it is football season, you could go and visit the Football Museum at Hampden Park. You can also follow that up with a Brewery Tour, of the Tennants Brewery in the City.
The Botanic Gardens are also very popular, particularly if your accommodation is up in the West End region, and you can go for a Sunday Morning stroll around the grounds.
You can also visit the Museum of Piping if you want to learn everything there is to know about Scottish Bagpipes.
A favourite museum of mine is the Scotland Street School Museum. It is like stepping back in time, and the museum is dedicated as you might expect, to education. It reminds me of my old junior school, so I know now when that was last modernised! The Scotland Street School opened in 1906.
And finally, coming right back to the present day, you could visit the Glasgow Science Centre, on the banks of the Clyde. It is part of the Millenium Project for Glasgow, and costs £6.50 for adults. There is also an IMAX Theatre located here.
Where to stay ---------------- Dominating the City’s skyline you will find the Hilton Hotel. This isn’t likely to be the best location for your stay however. The Marriott is also in this area, and probably best avoided for the same reason.
On the other side of the water, you will find the Moat House. This is quite a luxurious Hotel and is close to the Science Centre, but once again not the most ideal location for City Centre shopping and dining.
At the more budget end of the scale, the Express by Holiday Inn is well located and brand new. The Kelvin Park Lorne Hotel is situated at the top end of Sauchiehall Street and advertises rates of £29 single. I was up there the other week for a lecture, it is pretty reasonable overall.
The Thistle Hotel has now been bought over by the Holiday Inn. This is slightly more convenient than the Hilton and is about a five-ten minute walk to the main shopping areas. Continuing the theme of hotel buyouts, what was the Glasgow Grosvenor, is now owned by the Hilton Chain. This is well located at the West End and opposite the Park. I have stayed in here on several occasions and many of the rooms were a little dated, although I believe it has had a face lift since changing hands. We booked a suite in here more than once, and I believe we paid £109 for a fantastic bedroom and living room, so maybe this is the way to do it.
Other big hotels include the Copthorne, the Millenium, and for my money, the Malmaison.
Further Afield -----------------
Well, as you are so close, you really should try and take a trip to the Loch Lomond Area, which is about half hour from Glasgow City Centre. You can enjoy the peace and quiet here after your frenzied weekend.
Edinburgh itself takes about 1 hour on the train from Glasgow Queen Street and I would certainly recommend the train, over the care any time.
Stirling is also less than one hour away, and it is worth driving into this area. This is William Wallace country and you can visit the Wallace Monument, and Bannockburn, the site of the famous battle.
South of Glasgow and you will reach Ayrshire, which is where traditionally the Glaswegians would come for their holidays in days gone by. From Ardrossan, you can catch the ferry to Arran, which only costs about £5 for a foot passenger. Ayrshire is a golfing mecca with great courses including Troon and Prestwick. Oh, and you could pop in and see me and I’ll give you a cup of tea!
Failte gu Mor Ghlaschu
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far to much to be able to comment on! Love Cafe Mao, go there loads. drew
libragirl 23.09.2003 14:47
Blimey, you must have been shattered after writing all that...excellent op. I stay in Glasgow (well, Paisley, actually...lol), but if I were visiting, your op would have definitely given me all the info I needed. Well Done!! Ayeshah xx
mark-southside 17.09.2003 13:34
spot on helen!! couple of things I would add - the architecture is stunning if you're into that sort of things, did you mention the Burrell Collection and Pollock House, an oasis just outside the city centre, world class art - and public transport is great. After 9am a £4 roundabout ticket gives you the freedom of trains and subway. but it is the people....big contrast with Edinburgh
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