I been to Mumbai number of times mostly on official errands, naturally had little time for sight-seeing and I regretted it most of the time, main reasons being my inherent weakness and curiosity about Muslim history and their curious propensity for excellent art work. Who can forget the great “Taj Mahal”, one of nine Wonders of the World, a piece unbelievable example of Islamic architecture and a tribute to Shahzahan’s great love for his wife Mumtaz. But during my recent visit I was determined to at least have a look at the eye catching Haji Ali Mosque. It was a decision that I will never rue.

WHO WAS HAJI ALI:

Syed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, Haji Ali who is believed to be a wealthy local business man in Bukharia, in the ancient Persian Empire now in Uzbekistan. Haji Ali traveled around the world in the early 1400s and the local historical records with Haji Ali Trust refutes that ultimately he had come to Mumbai, the then Bomabay.

The legend has it that a mystique surrounds him. The story goes that once Haji Ali Bukhari saw a poor woman, scarcely covered with tattered cloth crying on the road with an empty vessel in her hand. When Haji asked about her plight she sobbed vigorously and said that her husband will thrash her since she spilled the oil she was carrying when she stumbled by chance. The touchy man he was, Haji asked her to take him to the place of incident. As he poked his finger into the soil, the oil gushed out. The poor woman was more than happy and went home. History has not recorded to what extent the poor women’s happiness persisted. But it does record this event made a lot of difference in the life of this wealthy business man. He said to have suffered from recurrence of terrifying and disturbing dreams, believing he consciously hurt Mother Earth by this act and fell seriously ill so much so that he went to the extent of directing his followers that they cast his coffin into the Arabian sea, which was of course met with after his death.

As mentioned earlier Haji Bhukhari was a wealthy businessman but he renounced his wealth and the material world, settling to meditate on a nearby headland prior to his pilgrimage to Mecca.

But it is strange that according to the legend Haji Ali was on a pilgrimage to Mecca and he died there. It is miraculous that his coffin floated back and the coffin finally reached and stayed on tiny islet around half a kilometer in the bay off what is now known as Worli, a posh locality in south-central Mumbai.

Now believing this strange incident as some divine gesture, they buried the coffin on that islet. As time passed by additions were made in bits and pieces to the shrine progressively become famous as the Syed Peer Haji Ali Dargah, in 1431.

Taking that as some kind of divine sign, his followers buried the coffin on that islet. Gradually over the years, small additions were made to the shrine, which progressively became famous as the Haji Ali Dargah

THE HAJI ALI MOSQUE

His devotees built the Mosque in the 19th century in honor of this Muslim saint Haji Ali. This beautiful piece of architecture was built in the middle of the sea with only a narrow path leading to it, giving an ethereal look. The structure is a slim solitary mirerate. A very tenuous and precarious causeway connects it with mainland which becomes non-negotiable during rough monsoon and tides for all practical purposes. The tomb of the Haji is covered with an exquisite brocaded red and green chaddar ( a sort of wrapper), lying in an exquisitely supported by the marble pillars and is fully decorated with artful mirror work with blue, green, yellow chips of glass arranged in kaleidoscopic patterns interspersed with Arabic patterns which spells the ninety-nine names of Allah. Behind the artistically sculptured entrance, a marble courtyard contains the central shrine. The whitewashes structure occupies an area of about 4,500 square meters and 26m tower is the architectural highlight of the edifice.

Thousands of worshippers stoop to press their forehead against the tomb.

Muslim tradition demands separate praying rooms for ladies and gents and they are provided here to pay their respect. The Haji Ali mausoleum has an offshore location exactly opposite to the Lahalakshmi race course. It is about 500 yard into the sea and can only be reached in low tide. During the high tide, the connecting causeway is submerged in water diving the impression that the mosque and tomb are floating out at sea in splendid isolation. And this is The Haji Ali Dargah, the floating tomb of a wealthy Mohammedan merchant who renounced his worldly ways before embarking on a pilgrimage to Mecca, the holy of the holiest places for the Muslims.

ATTRACTION OF THE MOSQUE:

No doubt the Mosque is one the most important tourist attraction in Mumbai, it is with grief, I must say. It is no longer what it was. It is infested with beggars, chattering families and stalls which are more interested in profiteering rather than providing quality food for the visitors. The courtyard has lost it somber character. But it still retains and underlines Muslim architecture at its best although it requires real planning and drive for its preservation at least that is the feeling I had after my visit there.

But I was impressed by the flower hawkers, lovely flowers and bouquets, necklaces, bangles all sold at such a low price.

POOR MAITENANCE

It is a pity that such a historical piece of architecture and point of great interest equally to the international and national tourists be last repaired in the 1960s it is even more sad that civil engineers and experts say that the structure is beyond further repairs. Efforts are on and The Dargah Trust is waiting for permission to raze the structure and rebuild it with the famous Marakana marble, the same with which the Taj Mahal is build with. The main threat is corrosion caused by saline wind blowing from the surrounding sea.

IN CASE YOU ARE INTERESTED:

If you are interested to visit The Haji Ali Mosque, here is just some information:

Contact:
Haji Ali Mosque
Worli, Mumbai-4000 039
INDIA

Contact Numbers: +91-22-23456155, +91-22-67439128

For travel Information and bookings:

GRAY LINE INDIA BOMBAY,
Chowpatty View Bldg, Ground Floor
S. V. P Road,
Opera House.
Mumbai, India.

Contact Numbers: +9122-23672424
Fax: +91-22-23645001
Email: rishi@rajtravels.com (not confirmed)