Hebden Bridge (West Yorkshire)

.../> My personal experience of Hebden Bridge goes back to childhood as I was born about 5 miles away. Despite my family moving to Wiltshire when I was 3, I felt a huge pull back to this place (not caused simply by the many remaining family members in and around the town or as a result of the long summer holidays spent here)...Many locals and visitors alike refer to this strange affection for a sometimes dreary northern town...

At 20 ...
...lived within 3 miles of Hebden Bridge. My reasons for choosing to live in the surrounding countryside rather than the town itself may also become apparent as we continue; however, I hope this allows an objective review from the view of both local and tourist!


~LOCATION & HISTORY~

In order for you to understand its past it is important to first explain its location. Hebden is sat at the bottom of a valley, on ... more

A LITTLE mill town with a BIG personality! For those amongst you reading this who are familiar with this gritty northern mill town you will perhaps understand why such a little town needs such a large review...Those new to the unique and bizarre place will perhaps understand by the end!!

My personal experience of Hebden Bridge goes back to childhood as I was born about 5 miles away. Despite my family moving to Wiltshire when I was 3, I felt a huge pull back to this place (not caused simply by the many remaining family members in and around the town or as a result of the long summer holidays spent here)...Many locals and visitors alike refer to this strange affection for a sometimes dreary northern town...

At 20 I headed back to West Yorkshire and for the last 9 years have lived within 3 miles of Hebden Bridge. My reasons for choosing to live in the surrounding countryside rather than the town itself may also become apparent as we continue; however, I hope this allows an objective review from the view of both local and tourist!

~LOCATION & HISTORY~

In order for you to understand its past it is important to first explain its location. Hebden is sat at the bottom of a valley, on the edge of the Pennines in West Yorkshire - just 10 miles from the Lancashire border; an area known as Calder Valley.
This was a part of the country heavily wrapped up in the cotton and wool trade, and as a result of the river Calder running through the valley bottom a large number of mills sprang up throughout the time of the industrial revolution (my own Grandparents were indeed cotton weavers just up the road from here).

The many mill workers moving into the area were accommodated in terrace houses built to maximise the available land near the mills (precious in a steep rising valley), and these were built in long terraces with under and over dwellings (see photos), double-decker style housing as it’s occasionally termed.
Combined with the canals and the railways this was a soot filled, industrious place until the mills started closing post war.

Despite the mill closures it retained much of the notorious northern close knit community spirit – and some would say small town mentality : ) . The Hebden of pre-industrial revolution was a farming community - isolated and insular - and a host of tales regarding local mysteries and murders, many resolved at the gallows located a few miles away in Halifax, are accounted in local literature. - (This also goes someway to explain the often repeated saying in our house during my childhood "from Hull, Hell and Halifax dear Lord deliver us!"???...sincere apologies to anyone residing in those lovely parts of the world - it wasn't personal we also were told "they look with their fingers in Bacup!!" and a host of other bizarre sayings : ) !!)
My point is; this spirit is ever present today with the Hebden Grape Vine still working heavily throughout the area!! If you choose to live in the town, be prepared for people taking an interest in your activities : )

Many of the old mill worker houses were pulled down post war due to overcrowding or lack of desire, and indeed through the sixties and seventies the lack of interest in this place was so great it generated a new appeal through its raw beauty (and ridiculously cheap housing), to many hippies and travellers who gradually repopulated the area with an odd mixture of writers, musicians, teachers, photographers and Green and New Age activists. This went on to forge the Hebden of today – still active in Green Issues and filled with unconventional characters.

Much of the old housing survived the post war demolition, and now a new wave of Hebdenite is embracing the honest beauty and originality of this place, commuters and second home owners have assisted in the major increase in house pricing (superseding any other small mill towns in the surrounding area), leaving some resentment amongst the younger born and bred members of the community often unable to buy in the town and who feel forced to rent or leave the area to get onto the property ladder.

This new interest has, however, brought a great deal more affluence to this character filled town, work continues to develop the old mills into expensive apartments and holiday lets.

~CHARACTER~

It’s the feel of a place that many refer to, and having long been a haven to individually minded folk it’s a very distinctive sense you get of the place when you choose to look.
Don’t get me wrong undoubtedly some people find it quite uninteresting or dreary, fortunately many more see the true spirit of Hebden Bridge, which embraces anyone if they are prepared to let down their guard and truly be themselves. It’s not something I can explain, but you love Hebden for allowing you to be you…whatever that may be!
The town centre (well a handful of streets), is in the main an eclectic combination of little shops selling novelties, smellies, and antiques with a further tourist appeal in it’s slightly over zealous number of coffee shops. It isn’t pretty and twee like some villages; with a more honest and unkept feel….perhaps adding further to that unmistakeable character.

~THINGS TO DO ~

-Calder Holmes Park
Located in the centre of the town, parallel to the canal the park has tennis and bowling facilities as well as a kiddies play area, cycle track and large playing field. It plays host to many local events throughout the year, including a two day music festival in the summer (see photo) and a major fireworks display (drawing in crowds of around 10,000) for Plot Night!

-Little Theatre
Was started in 1924 and performed in many local venues. In 1993 a purpose built Theatre was opened. Seating just 120 it still plays host to many local and semi-professional performances. Many locals are involved in the success of the theatre, and having been involved in a couple of amateur performances I can recommend it as an excellent way to meet locals and get to know the community, as well as have a great laugh!

-Hardcastle Craggs (also known as Hebden Dean)
A large part of this 400 acre woodland was presented to the National Trust by the Lord Saville in 1948. As a result this is a beautiful piece of countryside with a variety of well marked walks for all paces and abilities. Gibson’s Mill (a water-powered cotton mill built in around 1800, and converted to steam power in 1860) is located just into the woods, and you get a real sense of its industrial past as you follow alongside the river.
The Craggs also play host to the Sculpture Trail including work from local artists at the start of each summer. Be prepared to donate £2 for parking if you don't walk down into the Craggs or catch the little bus from HB train station - alternatively, have you National Trust membership handy!

Also look out for the plaque near the picnic tables which refers to a local man who died some years ago saying "he loved this place" - the same quote as on Arthur Fowlers Bench for you Eastenders fans, and as one HB's residents has been a writer on the soap that Grape Vine I've mentioned confirms this was the inspiration for the script! : )

Located just before the main bottom car park of the Craggs, tucked away, is a pub called the Blue Pig - certainly worth a visit after a long walk (if you catch them open which seems a little hit and miss!)...while it appears a little like an oversized shed from the outside, once in a cosy and (I've always found) inviting pub greets you...quite basic, but with everything you need, and a good, reasonably priced, pint of Yorkshire Bitter!

-Picture House
One of the largest and few remaining civic owned cinema’s in the UK. It manages to retain some of the old charm of cinema going with just a 500 seat capacity, and is generally at least 4 weeks behind the outside world in the films it shows, never the less popular with locals and tourists alike.

-Shops
As I mentioned above an abundance of unique shops filled with everything you possibly don’t actually need! Don’t expect any high street names though! A good resource is the local Tourist Information Centre - recently relocated to a new building on the marina, they will have all details on local events and activities.

-Rochdale Canal & Hebden Marina
Very much part of the industrial past the canal now plays host to holiday makers hiring canal boats, the canal was developed and regenerated some years ago, and now is an attractive part of the town. Either taking an easy walk on towards Mytholmroyd will allow you to see the working locks which can get quite busy in the summer, or alternatively go on one of the few remaining horse drawn barges in the UK, which operate from the marina throughout the summer months.
Boat hire or day trips are possible from Calder Valley Cruising (01422 845557).

-Markets
Hebden has two regular out door markets (although the exact location is likely to change very soon, so check the Heb Web if you’re interested), a flea market on Wednesday, and regular market on Thursday. Generally 20 or so stalls with the usual style merchandise. We now play host to a farmers market most Sundays!!
Todmorden, Sowerby Bridge and Halifax also host markets these are on regularly throughout Calder Valley, again details can be found on the Hebden Bridge web site.

-The Bridge!!
OK – this won’t take long, but it wouldn't be Hebden Bridge without it You can walk over this old cobbled bridge and look down the river at the last remaining chimneys appearing out of valley. It won’t take long more than a minute to get across, but there’s a pub at either side, so if it does get to stressful…!

-Pubs
Yep, quite a few of these (too many to list)!! The most well known to the tourists is the White Lion in the town centre which can generally be relied on for decent food and accommodation. The others offer a wide range of atmosphere and character – take your pick! No nightclubs though!
The Trades Club often have some live music on – but check out who’s playing as the style can vary massively!

-Places to Eat
A really good choice of food from small restaurants with a variety of cuisine styles, to many of the local pubs. There are a couple of delicatessens which do sandwiches and of course of couple of good fish and chip shops. Something for all tastes!

-The Countryside
Unmistakably one of the best bits of the town is its beautiful location - as well as the Craggs, many other beautiful walks are clearly marked throughout the valley, and can be easily found on local maps. If you don't fancy, or can't manage, all that hill walking try a local bus, or take the car up out of the valley - most roads will take you back to the A646 if you start heading back down!...and the best way to appreciate this part of the country is to get out of the valley and look back into and across it.
Despite the many hills around, cycling is a hugely popular sport throughout the Valley. Many cycle shops are widely located and advertised, and will either offer hire facilities themselves, or will point you in the right direction...try the canal tow path if you need an interesting, flat route!!

~SURROUNDING PLACES OF INTEREST~

-Haworth
Located around 12 miles from HB this is famous as the home of the Bronte Family, and is another well known tourist spot.

-Lumb Bank
Set in woodland a couple of miles from Hebden Bridge this is an old house once owned by Poet Ted Hughes and his wife Sylvia Plath (and actually by my Gran before them!). Now run as a Poetry retreat dedicated to Hughes who host a range of residential courses for varying ages.

-Heptonstall Village
On the hillside a mile or so above Hebden Bridge, Heptonstall is an outstanding example of a Pennine Hill village, with the cobbled road still running through the village centre. It has a Grammar school museum and famously the grave of Sylvia Plath.

- Losang Dragpa Buddhist Centre
A residential Buddhist centre which offers retreats, working holidays, courses and teachings. Located at Dobroyd Castle in Todmorden 7 miles from HB.

- Keighley and Worth Railway
5 miles of restored railway line running through pretty countryside. Steam trains run through several stations and picnic facilities are available at many. (Keighley is about 15 miles from HB). The line at Oakworth was used in the filming of the 1970's version of the Railway children. Details of the line and trains running can be found at www.kwvr.co.uk

- Castle Carr
A mock medieval style house built in around 1860 by Captain Joseph Priestley Edwards. Located in Luddenden Dean this is a lovely area to walk over the moors to - about 7 miles from HB centre. The grounds are officially opened for only a couple of days annually, and during this time the fountains are also switched on. This is generally advertised locally near the time.

And lastly for those visiting who also need a later nightlife than the usual 11pm finish, there are many clubs and pubs in Halifax, Rochdale and Burnley all offering a variety of styles and choices. Those feeling more adventurous could consider Manchester or Leeds - both around an hour away.

~GETTING THERE~
There are very good links into the town with both regular buses running from Halifax through HB to Burnley and Rochdale, and trains stopping at the characteristic old world station 5 minutes from the town centre. They do not, however, run late into the night (much past midnight), and be warned the one taxi rank in HB can get very busy around this time.
Hebden does inevitably suffers from it's location at times, there is only one main road into and out of the town (A646), and this can get congested at peak times - especially if an event such as Bonfire night is taking place, as can the trains coming through the valley.
Avoid these moments though and you have no problems! Likewise parking can be troublesome at certain times, and particularly on Market days. However, there are several pay and display zones and small car parks well sign posted. Parking is cheap compared to many places these days - about 20p an hour!!

~ACCOMODATION~
As I've mentioned there are several pubs offering accommodation all pretty reasonably priced. Also advertised widely are a host of B&B's and holiday lets at varying price ranges many located in stunning scenery and location. As are some remotely located Youth Hostels also detailed online.

~THE DISADVANTAGES~
Well there had to be some!

-Locals and Tourists!
It's an odd mix of people - especially in a previously unappreciated mill town. The attitude of the local Hebdenite does on occasion change towards the tourist.
While much is geared towards bringing tourism into the town, and the local community does recognise the benefit of this interest and income, they do, in part, prefer to get "their" town back, and evening time can hold a slightly different feel for the visitor.
It shouldn't be a deterrent, many pubs offer great accommodation in and around the town centre and have a large number of regular visitors who never experience this side of Hebden...I did however feel it important to mention this having noted certain comments in the Hebden Web Site Guest Book, and experienced being a newcomer to the area personally...it can take a while to integrate!!

-It's not that big!
Seems an obvious point I know, but while this little town is interesting and quirky, unless you’re passionately into hiking, cycling, fell running or dry stone walling, (or you just fall in love with the place) I'm not saying you wouldn't be bored after a weekend or two!!...ask the local teenagers! Hebden's more the sort of place to be appreciated during a day trip, Romantic Weekend or detox and shop for a group of girlfriends.

Thanks for taking the time to read about this wonderful little town – more information and comments about the place can be found on the web site www.hebdenbridge.co.uk.

I’d like to leave with my ultimate reason for writing this review, while I write this throughout as honestly as possible about the place I know, some residents would perhaps say I am already close to over affection for the character of this town – and in the fast pace of today some may even say it deserves an overhaul and modernising!

I would have to disagree and instead make dedication of this to my dearest friend who has grown up there and remained living in the heart of HB and its community...

She recently shared her genuine sadness and concern about the future of this unique place. She felt it would be no longer able to remain free spirited and retain its honesty of character, when so many plans were being passed determining its future development… (Many reports have been written about these proposed changes in the local and, on occasion, national papers).

So I write this review to help capture a little of Hebden Bridge as it is now, and as I and so many love it, and to encourage any of you who get chance, to soak up a little of this special mill town before it’s lost in the ever changing world : )
 

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