Arriving in Ho Chi Minh Airport, the first thing that really struck me was the huge anti-aircraft guns sitting next to the runway, a very harsh reminder that this is a country just recovering from more than 30 years of war. This having been said, It has now been at peace with itself and it's neighbours for close to ten years. Certainly any reservations you initially had would be swepted away in the fast moving and neon lit lights of Saigon Proper. And after the inevitably long flight over you would think that all you would want to do is catch up on some well-deserved sleep. But instead you find yourself woken up and alert, as this wondrous and enchanting city breathes the life back into you. In fact if there is one thing this city has, It is an abundance of life and frantic hustle and bustle. Everywhere you look there is some facet of these peoples lives unfolding right in front of your eyes, as nothing in this country is really done behind closed doors. This feature of the Vietnamese people is sure to be at odds with western standards and culture, as they are much, much friendlier and more forthcoming.

The city it self is split into many different districts and only a few of these are recommended travelling, especially at night. Although crime is not rife in the city, small time pick pockets and motorcycle thieves will take advantage of any gormless tourist who leave themselves open (this is not to say that they are a nation of pickpocket or thieves but as in any culture there is a small minority of people who will take advantage). The best way to get around is by Cyclo-driver and anyone who has been to South East Asia will be familiar with this method of transport (basically a big basket on the front of a bike). These come cheap at about $10-20 a day, depending on whom you get, but the experience is one that I will never forget. At night it keeps you as close to the raw energy of the city as possible and you really do feel that you are soaking up some of that street spirit. Life here goes on long into the night, and when you eventually close your tired eyes, you can be sure that the city is still teaming with people plying their trade and catching up with old friends.

In a city such as this, I found it almost a chore to go to the usual museums and palaces, much preferring to soak up the wonderful atmosphere of the many markets and very Parisian coffee houses, the ice cream parlours situated safely above street level and the wonderful little trinket shops. Particularly the Benh Thanh Market (the biggest in Saigon) Which under it’s vast wings house butcheries, fishmonger, fresh fruit and vegetable stall, herbal medicine stalls, sweet stall, clothes, electronic goods, jewellery and furniture stalls. Obviously if you wanted you could pick up pretty good imitation designer gear amongst other apparel, but the most beautiful clothing I saw there was the magically elegant traditional dress. Worth picking up even for novelty value.

Many people have liken it to a poor mans Los Angeles (and having been there, I feel this is insulting to the Vietnamese as they are so much warmer.) or the Paris of the East, or the New Bangkok. And in a way it is an infusion of all this and more, as it throws into the boiling pot a long and rich history of proud and painful memories, which if you look under the surface is still agonisingly apparent in the older generation. But as over 50% of Saigon's population are apparently under 40 you do get a feeling that the city is very young. Because of this you cannot escape the overwhelming feeling that at least for most of the day, the only thing the Vietnamese care about is making the most of things and enjoying themselves!