Hull doesn't get a good press. Not long ago, it topped a list of crap towns. The Audit Commission rates the council's performance as 'poor'. The city's schools regularly sit at the bottom of national league tables. And its people have been pronounced the fattest in the UK. So, when, in August ... Read review
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Advantages: No longer smells of fish, even Warty Doris Disadvantages: Sometimes smells of failure
Hull doesn't get a good press. Not long ago, it topped a list of crap towns. The Audit Commission rates the council's performance as 'poor'. The city's schools regularly sit at the bottom of national league tables. And its people have been pronounced the fattest in the UK. So, when, in August 2005, a Channel 4 programme dubbed Hull the worst place to live in Britain, it all had such a weary predictability that residents barely batted an eyelid. ...be so different. After all, Hull is the twelfth biggest city in Britain, home to a quarter of a million people. Yet the fanatically-followed football team languished in the third division seemingly for ever. No doubt geography has something to do with it: it's literally at the end of line, on the way to nowhere, and with nowhere to go. In the words of the poet Philip Larkin who lived here, "only salesmen and relations come".
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Hull doesn't get a good press. Not long ago, it topped a list of crap towns. The Audit Commission rates the council's performance as 'poor'. The city's schools regularly sit at the bottom of national league tables. And its people have been pronounced the fattest in the UK. So, when, in August 2005, a Channel 4 programme dubbed Hull the worst place to live in Britain, it all had such a weary predictability that residents barely batted an eyelid.
So is it all true? Is Hull the worst place in Britain? Well, yes and no. I've lived there for over 20 years. If it was really so awful, I wouldn't have stayed. But there's no doubt the city has suffered in that time, and not just because of me. Traditional industries began their decline long before my arrival. Fishing and its associated trades hardly feature in Hull's economy now. The councillors who run the city have gone from endless complacent one-party rule to equally endless childish squabbling.
The results are all too evident in Hull's sluggish regeneration: a massive redevelopment right at the city's heart has only just got underway after years of dereliction and indecision. Two big department store buildings have lain empty for decades. Until recently, there were still bomb sites from World War II in the middle of town.
It should - and could - be so different. After all, Hull is the twelfth biggest city in Britain, home to a quarter of a million people. Yet the fanatically-followed football team languished in the third division seemingly for ever. No doubt geography has something to do with it: it's literally at the end of line, on the way to nowhere, and with nowhere to go. In the words of the poet Philip Larkin who lived here, "only salesmen and relations come".
The resulting lack of prospects or chances of migration produced a culture of low ambition: the expectation of failure has seeped deep into the bones of its people. To quote a colleague who grew up near here, it's an underachiever's paradise (which is, admittedly, one reason I fit in so well).
But thanks to the M62, upgraded ferries to mainland Europe, and better local roads, Hull is far easier to reach (and get out of) these days. For the uninitiated, you'll find it on the Humber estuary, halfway up the eastern coast of Britain, about 220 miles north of London. However, tolls on the Humber Bridge, ostensibly the city's gateway, are a scandalous £2.70 each way, hardly providing an incentive to visit. Maybe they're designed to stop people leaving.
Yet people do visit Hull. Its 'submarium', The Deep, attracted a million punters within 14 months of opening - four times the expected number. This was trumpeted as evidence of the city's rebirth, and The Deep has, for the first time, given people a reason to come to Hull apart from seeing their football teams beat ours.
Those who have visited any of the country's Sea Life Centres will recognise the basic premise of The Deep. A series of giant tanks give you close-up views of marine creatures from corals to sharks. Other exhibits provide a chronology of the earth's history and interactive deep-sea exploration games. The building is a striking design, resembling a giant ship's prow jutting over the bank of the Humber. The Deep's appeal has (literally) been deepened by an extension which reveals the 'twilight zone' of life in the most unfathomable oceans.
A recently-built waterfront promenade links The Deep to the marina - an attractive conversion of one of the docks which used to extend right into the city centre. Apart from many swanky yachts, the marina is home to a preserved lightship which once guarded the entrance to the Humber.
Unfortunately, this part of the city is divided from the centre by a dirty, noisy and relentlessly busy dual carriageway. If you manage to cross this in one piece, you'll find another converted dock. This contains the huge four-storey shopping centre, Princes Quay. Most national retail chains are here. It does have a unique character though, as it is built on stilts, surrounded by water, and a deep central atrium gives a focal point and a sense of scale lacking in most malls.
Close by are a couple of Hull's other attractions. The Ferens Gallery is a very good municipal art gallery. Though not worth a visit to the city in itself, it has an excellent collection of art from all periods, and hosts regular major touring exhibitions. The nearby Town Docks Museum provides a worthy, if staid insight into Hull's maritime history, including a lot of information on whaling. Admission to both is free.
The main shopping centre is compact and almost totally pedestrianised. Like all of Hull, it is flat, making it easy to walk round, if rather featureless. Streets are generally clean and well-maintained. Paid guides used to wait at several points to help confused visitors, though I rarely saw them do anything other than stand around shivering.
The city's eateries have improved considerably in recent years, with national chains such as Pizza Express and Ask moving in. Cerutti's is a well-established quality seafood restaurant; Hitchcocks offers all-you-can-eat vegetarian cuisine with a different theme each night; and the Venn bistro and restaurant has recently become the first place in Hull to be listed in the Michelin Guide.
Immediately to the east of the central area is the historic Old Town. At its entrance you'll find the remains of the Beverley Gate sunk into a hole in the ground. This was the site of Hull' s most pivotal historic event when in April 1642, the parliamentarian city became famous for turning away Charles I while he stood in the rain seeking entry to the town. Now it's mainly a repository for crisp packets and burger trays.
Sadly, much of the Old Town was destroyed by wartime bombing, and further decimated by short-sighted planning in later decades. A few narrow streets and older buildings do remain. The piscatorially-inclined can follow the Fish Trail, 40 pieces of sculpture set into the pavements - from tiny anchovies to a 10 ft ray, including the enticingly-named Warty Doris.
Here you'll also find several of the older pubs, most of which have fascinating histories: Ye Olde White Harte, the Black Boy and the Blue Bell are particularly characterful and worth a visit.
Also in the Old Town is the newly-styled 'Museums Quarter'. This is essentially a concept designed to market Streetlife - a good small transport museum - and the Hull and East Riding Museum with its recently-revamped local history exhibits tracing the area's Celtic, Roman and Tudor heritage. Nearby is Wilberforce House, devoted to the story of Hull's great slavery abolitionist William Wilberforce. Again, all these museums are free.
Visitors looking for insights into Hull's literary heritage may be disappointed. Hull has always produced more than its fair share of poets, from Andrew Marvell through to Larkin, including Douglas Dunn, Stevie Smith and more recent luminaries such as Peter Didsbury. Roger McGough and Tom Paulin both studied at the university and Poet Laureate Andrew Motion once taught there.
Its equally proud contributions to pop music history are not much in evidence either, unless you count the bandstand dedicated to the memory of the late Bowie sideman Mick Ronson. You'll find no blue plaque to mark the site of Turner's furniture store whose slogan was nicked by Everything But The Girl. There may be park benches somewhere in honour of The Beautiful South or Wreckless Eric, but I have yet to find them.
Despite spawning nationally-known acts and actors (Tom Courtenay and Maureen Lipman to name but two), Hull has never been big on entertainment venues. It relies on its ice rink to accommodate the few major pop acts which visit, although the impressive new KC Stadium has staged some big concerts (notably R.E.M. and Elton John) as well as football and rugby matches. The City Hall is a cavernous Victorian pile with the acoustics and ambience of a public lavatory. Hull Truck Theatre's intimate room hosts some notable rock, jazz and national comedy turns, as well as drama of patchy quality. Elsewhere, the small Adelphi Club attracts many up-and-coming indie bands. The only other major venue is the council-run New Theatre, favoured by pantos and touring opera and ballet companies.
As I've mentioned, Hull isn't hard to reach these days. It's an hour from Leeds and York. The M62 puts it two hours' drive from Liverpool; 90 minutes from Manchester. Hull Trains operates direct services to and from Kings Cross. You can even come in by air (Humberside Airport is 30 minutes' drive away).
Hull has come a long way in the last few years. It'll have to go much further before people visit in the way they flock to York. But Hull City football club did finally escape Division Three. Who knows, one day the town might follow.For more tourist info, go to www.hullcc.gov.uk/visithull, from which I lifted the photos below.
Advantages: Large city trying to re-invent itself with a better image. Disadvantages: You either love it or hate it!
...the country's top 10 cities, Hull lies along the north bank of the river Humber not far from the M62 in the area now known as East Yorkshire. (Incidentally, just across the river and right a bit from me!)
Be it Rugby League, Football, Nightlife or shopping, Hull has something for just about everyone, although someone always finds something to grumble about anything, they always do!!
GETTING THERE
-------------------------
If travelling under ... ...because it is just plain Hull on road signs!
From the West, straight down the M62 and onto the A63 (without knowing it!) Don't leave this dual carridgeway as it leads you into the heart of the city.
From the South, you could go M1 onto the M62 then as above. Alternatively, M18 upto M62 or M18 to M180 full length to A15 but be warned, going this way would entail following signs mainly for Humber Bridge. So this way means having to cross this magnificent ...
Littleswamp1 27.04.2005
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull in General
Advantages: It's brilliant, first rate football team!! Disadvantages: None that I know of or have experienced!!
...through all the opinions on Hull on Ciao earlier on today and came accross quite a few. I didn't really agree with any of them so I've decided to give my perspective on the city I've grown to love.
The main reason that I visit Hull is primarily because my dad hails from these grounds, and secondly, well, Boothferry Park! Boothferry Park is Hull City A.F.C's home ground. I've grown to love watching Hull City and grown to even love the supporters. ... ...reason why I go to Hull is the shopping, this mightn't make too much sense since I live in Leeds, but the shopping in Hull is good. There's a few shopping centres, all of reasonable size. They have the usual shops, Mark + Sparks, Topshop etc. It's good for adults and children.
The Princess Quay shopping centre is probably the best, there's a Gap, River Island and a French Connection shop. Plus, the organic ice cream stall on the bottom floor is ...
Celia86 05.09.2001 (01.11.2001)
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull in General
Advantages: Its cheap, the people are nice, there is loads to do and see. Disadvantages: Uni students who come here give it a bad name then go home!
Hull – for those of you out there who are unfamiliar with this place - I will give you a clue – It is a lesser known fishing village, sort of like a backwater because it is right at the end of the A63, one way in, and one way out!
Actually this is not entirely true. Hull is not a fishing village; it is actually a city with 250,000+ residents. The city itself is about 15 miles across and 10 miles wide and there is 7 miles of dockland, ... ...and are very exclusive, but Hull itself is - A City!
However, those throughout Britain who have never been to Hull, tend to have a few misconceptions about the place. Okay, friends at Uni.’ told me it smelled of fish, I think those of us who live here are impervious to this, but even they had to admit they loved the place and lots of them have stayed on.
My Father was born and raised in Edinburgh Scotland, and as such, came to Hull to find ...
wallstreetwannabe 07.07.2001
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull in General
Advantages: An undiscovered city worth discovering. Disadvantages: A little off the beaten track.
...war-time phrase. Which doesn't place Hull in the most illustrious company, but hey that was 50 odd years ago. Also the reason Hull was referred to in such terms was the vast amount of bombing it got during World War II. Hull grew from the ashes, and is now a thriving metropolitan city with a lot to offer. Over time I hope to give the users of Ciao an insight into what a worthwhile destination Hull is to visit.
So question is, what does Hull have ... ...crown of the city.
Hull has many parks. The one already mentioned attached to the stadium (West Park) has all the facilities expected in any city park. (Childrens play areas, large expanses of grass, tree lined walkways and sporting facilities.) East Park is a massive piece of parkland with all the same facilities as West Park, but on a grander scale. With a cross between a small game reserve and a zoo, and a huge boating lake, East Park is going ...
theblackstar 26.10.2004
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull in General
Advantages: Cheap. Good night-life. Many nice areas. Disadvantages: Two big council estates bring town down. Students are crime targets.
...been a few reviews of Hull just lately and I thought I would throw my opinion into the mix because I have not fully agreed with any of them (sorry!).
Hull is a town with a good history (full of vikings and civil war plotting etc) and there have been no major developments recently that have caused the town to change much. It is fairly isolated from other cities being mostly surrounded by (fairly nice) countryside. It is not really a tourist town ... ...statistics up.
Just around Hull are a couple of good colleges (Hull College, Riley College and Wyke College) and there are some good schools just outside Hull too. There are two universities - Hull University and The University of Lincolnshire and Humberside. The former being a good uni with a good reputation and the latter being the opposite.
The nightlife in Hull is pretty good. If you are like me and into alternative music then you are in for ...
tendril- 30.06.2001 (05.07.2001)
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull in General
Value for Money
Sightseeing
Shopping
Nightlife
Ease of getting around
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Advantages: Cheap Disadvantages: Too many to mention
GenerallyHull is very unpleasant.
Despite some nice architecture and atmospheric pubs, the place is largely ruined by it's cavemen/cavewomen inhabitants. The crime rate in the city is incredible and most areas are unsafe or downright dangerous, even in the day.
Levels of education inHull are extremely low as are standards of behavior ingeneral. The populace are largely racist, homophobic and ignorant, in fact difference is not tolerated whatsoever.
Unemployment is high as are aspirations and many residents are either drug dependent or alcoholics.
There is a perpetual atmosphere of violence in the city and it's common to be hassled for money and verbally abused by omnipresent gangs of youths.
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loadofcobblers 04.09.2005
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: somewhat helpful Review of Hull (England)
Advantages: Pretty fast, reasonable service, wine has high alcohol content Disadvantages: Not always reliable, cattle class is crowded, tickets are expensive
sentence, and thus my life changed course - the butterfly effect.
When I got onto the train I found my seat joining a drunk Scotsman, who was upset about his ex wife and his wee lad or something, and a nice young man called James who was coming back from his girlfriend's father's funeral. I joined them in drinking (they were buying) and smoking the journey away. It was a journey I often look back on fondly.
No more smoking carriages
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marymoose99 01.11.2008
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: exceptional Review of Virgin Pendolino
Advantages: friendly, cheap Disadvantages: some areas are rough!
Hull. It really is a friendly city; the locals despite many of them coming from quite obviously disadvantaged backgrounds are generally very accepting, and friendly in the cases I have come across.
Any questions about the city or the experience of living in the city feel free to ask! Thanks for reading! ...
martin0201 22.11.2007
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Ciao members have rated this review on average: very helpful Review of Hull (England)