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The Iguazu Falls ranks as one of South America foremost attractions. It's easy to see why after spending a day there, you will be spellbound. The Falls are situated in one of Argentina's best National Parks, Parque Nacional Iguazu in the north east of the country. The closest town to the Falls is Puerto Iguazu which survives purely from the tourist business but is beautifully serene.
The Falls came into being after a rush of lava (made up of basalt rock) suddenly stopped mid flow with the result that a huge natural cliff was created. This sheer drop happened to be spread over several kilometres and when the waters of the Rio Iguazu (river) plummet from the edge the result is like a scene taken from a movie endowed with eye popping special effects.
PUERTO IGUAZU
The closest town to the Falls comes complete with huge tracts of forest in the background. While Puerto Iguazu is a lovely town to relax in anything more than 2 days could lead to boredom. As you would expect being so close to Iguazu, there is a huge amount of accommodation available. Upmarket and budget hotels line up side by side so its no too difficult to pick the right option.
As is our eternal lack of funds we could be found at the lower end. That said our hotel, Residential Lilian, was very comfortable and proved to be excellent value for money at 25 Peso's ($, just under 10 Euro). Residential Lilian operates on a self catering basis so their kitchen comes with all the amenities. Our ensuite room was immaculate and included cable TV. Residential Lilian is only a couple of blocks from the bus terminal on an unmarked street (one of the many) closest to the surrounding rainforest. Thankfully the mosquitos only came out at night and in small doses.
While the main street of Puerto Iguazu is fully paved most of the back roads, where you'll find the bulk of accommodation, are neatly put together by embedded stones. The soil in the area has a rusty hue so after any rainfall
the streets take on the colour of the soil. Each evening you'll notice than below ankle level you match the fabulous sunset.
The relatively small centre of town completely closes down in the mid afternoon only to reopen in the early evening (in common with much of provincial Argentina and Brazil). That said, there isn't a whole lot going on in the evening either. There are one or two restaurants that have outdoor seating so sunset and beers is nice.
There are at least 4 internet facilities available charging an above average $3 per hour. While you won't get cheaper than this it is possible to get a free drink with each hour so it pays to seek these places out especially if you've endured a dehydrating day at the Falls.
PREPARATION
The Iguazu Falls are at their busiest around noon so it pays to avoid the most popular areas until later in the day. Another point worth remembering before you set out is to have protective covering for any cameras you intend bringing, or if this is not possible you can use your T-shirt at opportune moments like we did.
GETTING TO THE FALLS
Getting from Puerto Iguazu to the Falls couldn't be easier. If you are staying at one of the towns 4 star hotels you won't need to worry much as your bus will be waiting outside. For everyone else it's a taxi or the much cheaper alternative, the bus. All buses for Iguazu (in Brazil it's spelt with a 'c', Iguacu) leave from platform 1 at the bus station. There is a departure every 40 minutes beginning at 7am right through to 5 in the evening.
There is no need to buy tickets in advance as the $2 fare is collected on board. The Iguazu bus is distinctive, it is white and could easily pass for an airport transfer bus. The destination sign on the front of the bus says Cataratas (Spanish for 'Falls'). The 15 km journey to the entrance of the National Park only takes about 20 minutes.
Once you arrive, admission to the National Park is $9 which includes a return trip by tram to the most impressive Falls, Garganta Del Diablo ('The Devil's Throat'). There are many extra options available if you wish to enhance your experience of the Falls. As you would expect these options cost a little extra. The most common excursion is to take a dingy to the base of the St. Martin falls. The St. Martin falls are the second biggest in the Park so disappearing under its mist is both frightening and exhilarating. The ride lasts just 12 minutes but is reasonably priced at $30.
FACILITIES
Facilities in the Park are second to none. All the pathways are well signposted and include the time required to finish a circuit. Along the way there are a multitude of fast food outlets and souvenir shops to break your journey. What's even more of a relief (literally) is the number of toilets all over the site. Not only do they appear spic and span but the soft toilet paper that they use is as rare as the Dodo in this part of the world!
On entry to the Park you are supplied with a bilingual map (Spanish/English) that has all the information you need to decide how to spend the day. It is recommended that you allow 8 hours if you wish to see all the attractions. There are professional guides available but the way the park is organised these are not at all necessary.
Not too far from the entrance to the Park there is an amphitheatre and a visitors centre with lots of information the how the Falls were created and what is being done to maintain them. A little further on a lookout in the shape of a lighthouse is a good spot to get an idea of the scope of the Park.
In what would seem like a perfect honeymoon location the SheratonHotel has a huge site in the greenest part of the Park near one of the train stations. It would probably work out a lot cheaper than Niagara (with the Peso's devaluation) if you are planning your wedding at the moment.
THE FALLS
While the Park contains dozens of Falls the most impressive duo are the Garganta Del Diablo and San Martin Falls. There is only one way to get to the former and that is by the 'Green Train of the Jungle'. The train is more like a Butlin's tram and departs from the parks central station every half an hour on a course parallel to the river. The carriages can be squashed at times but watching the huge masses of multicoloured butterfly's spin gracefully by is a joy. The train connects the Parks 3 stations and journey time from one end to the other is less than 30 minutes.
Once you get to the Garganta Del Diablo Station (the last stop) it is just a 10 minute walk along the metal boardwalks to the viewing stands. And what a sight it is. Huge clouds of mist rise up from the depths while overhead the brown water cascades elegantly over the edge to certain Kodak immortality. At first the sight is hard to take in, the water seems to hover mid air before it makes its almost slow motion fall. There are plenty of professional photographers to capture the moment but having your own photographic evidence to record what you see is essential. It's easy to be overcome by the grandeur of it all. Being part of a smiling crowd of people of every age from over the globe is something to be savoured.
While its difficult to repeat the exhilaration of this initial sight there are many other viewpoints within the park to get a visual fix. There are several trails spread throughout the park that offers differing views of the Cataratas. The 2 main tracks are simply called the Upper and Lower Paths. Each has detailed signposts showing how long the walk takes and the degree of difficulty involved. In truth there is little difficulty as there are no major climbs and the path is fully paved. Both tracks depart from Cataratas Station (the middle station on the train line).
The Lower Path (1.5 hours) is perhaps the most spectacular in that it gets you up to within feet of the plunging water at the Bosseti Falls. Here you come face to face with a sea of mist, thrashing water and the feeling of being inside a cold water twin-tub. The path also provides panoramic views of each consecutive drop, lined up side by side as far as the eye can see. Isla San Martin is the parks biggest island and it can be accessed by boat from the Lower Path. The island has a series of paths that lead up to its highest point that gives a different angle to view the falls from (the same as the view from the Brazilian side but much closer).
The Upper Path (1.5 hours) provides vistas from above and a chance to see some of the wildlife that lives in the park. There are signs requesting that visitors be cautious of snakes but all we saw were countless anteaters who have branched out into human rubbish. They are not shy either! The Upper Path has walkways that meander through the delta of the Rio Iguazu and many of its islands and is a good option for the late afternoon.
If you have not tired of walking there is another minor path known as the Green Path that passes through a marshy patch of land. This small area has the highest concentration of birds but the heavy undergrowth means that you may only hear them.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
The Macuco Track begins near the main train station but is badly marked. You'll need a hand from staff to get started but once you're on your way you won't regret it. As you enter the rainforest a sign warns about sticking to the track due to dangerous animals. This is not just scaremongering either as a local rangers child was savaged and killed by a Puma 3 years ago.
Armed with this information any noise (and there are lots of them) that is not familiar will have cold sweat weeping from your every pore. At first we thought we were alone on the track which added to our chills but thankfully we came across several other groups who seemed to have all their limbs intact. The track extends through the bush for 3km but then gets a little skewy. Finding the promised hidden waterfall was a bit of trial and error but it was a welcome relief from the cobwebs in your hair and rustling in the trees.
Back in prime tourist territory it was time for a sigh of relief but the photographs of our mini trauma were enough to make the whole thing worthwhile. It's funny how being scared takes from your tan!
FOZ DE IGUACU
Puerto Iguazu's equivalent just over the border in Brazil is the much bigger town of Foz De Iguacu. It hosts visitors to the Brazilian side of the falls but recently made headline news because of its alleged links with Islamic terrorists. Foz is a less pleasant place than Puerto Iguazu, its landscape is characterised by skyscrapers and there is a uneasy feel to the place.
The Brazilian end of the Falls has less to offer than the Argentinean side but if your holiday is limited to Brazil you can still spend a day in Argentina to view the falls from that side without having to get a visa.
The brochures handed out to tourists visiting the Falls in Brazil are ridden with warnings on how to get through the day safely. While problems are rarely reported the risk is enough to dampen your enthusiasm to a greater degree than the mists from the Falls themselves. Generally a half day is enough to see everything from this side.
Foz De Iguacu certainly has a more developed nightscene but whether this is that important in one of the most beautiful places on earth is open to question. With Argentina's current devalued currency the traditional backpacker approach of staying in Foz because it is cheaper does not apply for the time being at least.
When you've been on the road for over a year like us you tend to get immune to attractions that would normally transfix. The Iguazu Falls are an exception however. The majesty and spectacular size of this natural wonder will take your breath away. It is hard not to get emotional when you see them for the first time. They are simply a must if you are within a thousand miles radius.
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Great review. I am going here in a couple of weeks, and am looking forward to it even more now! Vic
kevic 16.05.2003 21:12
I am sorry that you feel that the brazilian side was a let down having been to both sides of the falls I personally preferred the views and walks on the Brazilian side! Excellent reveiw though how I wish I was thee again now!
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