Ilha Grande

...Brazilians know this as the Ilha Grande - or Big Island. Its Brazil's largest water bound land mass and was used as a prison colony by the authorities in order to keep Marxists and other political insurgents locked away far from society, and unable to influence the masses during the country’s recent unstable past. Its small on the map, but bear in mind its sitting next to one of the biggest countries in the world. Brazil is roughly the same ...
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The island of Ilha Grande resembles in shape a crippled starfish, in that there are arms that stretch out from the main body at strange angles, and often these create sheltered bays of clean white sands. It really is that fantasy image of trekking through the jungle, pushing back the final Palm frond or Banana leaf, and looking out at miles and miles of ocean water and beach. Ahhhhhhh.

There is a limit to the amount of people ... more

If you look at a map of Brazil, just Southeast of the sprawling city of Rio de Janeiro itself is an Island that appears tiny (unless you have one BIG atlas). Somewhat contrary to this, Brazilians know this as the Ilha Grande - or Big Island. Its Brazil's largest water bound land mass and was used as a prison colony by the authorities in order to keep Marxists and other political insurgents locked away far from society, and unable to influence the masses during the country’s recent unstable past. Its small on the map, but bear in mind its sitting next to one of the biggest countries in the world. Brazil is roughly the same size as Russia.

You can see footage of this prison and some of its unfortunate residents on the DVD extras section of the recent release "Cidade de Deus" or "City of God" - A fine film, but hey… that’s another review entirely!

All of which is largely irrelevant to the vast majority of the many honeymooners and visitors to the gorgeous beaches of the island these days.

However if this is your thing, it is possible to walk up to the site of the prison and look it over – it’s a long walk, and not for the faint hearted, as the pathways lead up through jungle, and are basically huge ladders, ascending sharply to the islands tabletop centre.

Access to the Island is via a ferry from a little town Called Potosi, which was the main point for the departure to Portugal of the plundered gold in the era of colonialisation.

There are interesting (and very annoying) reminders of this period in the way the streets are constructed – almost entirely out of huge granite blocks, to make any potential robbers trip over their own feet and therefore be unable to steal the Gold mined in the nearby state of Belo Horizonte.

A problem with these uneven streets is that if the weather is poor, they turn into millions of foot deep puddles. Real ankle breakers! But this place is just a short stop, and, I would say, not worth much more of a mention than it has just received.

The island of Ilha Grande resembles in shape a crippled starfish, in that there are arms that stretch out from the main body at strange angles, and often these create sheltered bays of clean white sands. It really is that fantasy image of trekking through the jungle, pushing back the final Palm frond or Banana leaf, and looking out at miles and miles of ocean water and beach. Ahhhhhhh.

There is a limit to the amount of people allowed to travel to the Isle at any time, as the government wants this place kept pure and simple. Its for this reason too that there are few shops around, and no clubs, or Bars that stay open later than about 2 (unheard of in party – mad South America!) There are 2 cars on the whole Island, too. One is a police van; the other is an ambulance. Other than this transport is on foot.

No bad thing that this place has remained unspoiled. Its not just for the rich either! Beds at a cheap “Posada” or guest house start at a very reasonable 15Rs per night (that’s about £4 in English money, honey – or $8 Bucks to all you Shermans out there.) Restaurants are easy to find, mainly being situated on the main strip of development which is near where the boat from the mainland calls.

There are lots of places to stay here, some at the budget prices listed above, but there are campsites too - good for meeting Cariocas (people from Rio) on holiday – and very cheap at about 5Rs per night. At the other end of the spectrum are the expensive hotels, but being the scum I am I didn’t get near enough to any of these to comment on them.

But the Island, the Island…is magic, with enough beaches tucked away that with an hours walk its possible to find your own shady stretch of between 8 and 80 feet of sand, both black and white sand, and sometimes both at once, in irregular stripes that cross the shore haphazardly. There are lush waterfalls, around which Locals bathe in the sunny atmosphere and crystal clear waters. Locals are mainly friendly and relaxed and the island is really pretty, with a centre of dense jungle and Banana trees and huge palms everywhere.

I would say Ilha Grande is perfect for anyone wanting to get away from it all. There are beaches that have restaurants on them, with jukeboxes and pool tables, and people strumming guitars nearby. There is surfing and snorkelling and water sports if you look for them. I didn’t, being too busy reading in my hammock.

If you are wanting to find the next Ibiza, this is not it, and if you try to approach it as such, the local old bill will shove a truncheon where the sun don’t shine. This is the only downside, but from my point of view the quiet is a big plus, especially with Rio just a few hours away.
 

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