Unrivaled scenery, an enjoyable challenge, an unforgettable experience
Disadvantages:
Hard work (but well worth it)
Recommend to potential buyers:
yes
Full review
For many people, Macchu Picchu is the sole reason for visiting Peru - the citadel features on most every "to see" list, every dream trip. Discovered in 1911 by American Hiram Bingham, it sits astride a soaring outcrop of rock within a lush Andean mountain valley to the north of Cusco. It is the image which defines South America, as famous as the Grand Canyon, as iconic as the Eiffel Tower. And as such, a sceptical part of me expected to be just a fraction disappointed.
However, on this occasion, the hype was wholly justified. Myself and a friend, as part of a month in Peru, managed to pick up places on a four-day trek of the Inca Trail at the last minute, the culmination of which would be rising at 4 a.m. to walk the last few miles, arriving at the Sun Gate at sunrise. I wouldn't advise this approach however - especially in the summer months, it can be hard to get onto the Trail. It is unlikely you will be unable to see Macchu Picchu, but it is best to book ahead - extremely important for those spending a small amount of time in Cusco.
Our package, from one of the many offices surrounding the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, set us back $250 each, and included passes, Guide, food and shelter. Left for us to provide was water/purifying tablets, any food we required outside of main meals, sleeping bags, torches and all clothes/other non-essential equipment. Of that list, we neglected to pack a torch between us - not a great idea, especially as night fell early in the Andes.
Ollantaytambo is likely to be the last stop made before the trail commences - the hordes of poncho-selling women may be an irritation, but should not be ignored. The weather changes so dramatically in the mountains, as we found to our detriment when a hot, sunny day developed into a torrential downpour, then a blizzard, in the space of an hour or two. Good walking boots may seem an obvious suggestion, but I chose to stick with my sturdy trainers for the sake of £40, and suffered - the trail is rough, uneven and inconsistent; your ankles will appreciate the support and your feet will be saved from the damp.
To extend this theme of preparation, I would add that it is wise to resist the temptation to save on weight by ditching clothes - take more than you think you will need, and leave out less essential items, like books and bottled water (a smaller canteen plus purification tablets will do the same job).
Of course, this is only a four-day affair, not a month-long expedition; you are unlikely to perish without the right equipment, but you may well be uncomfortable. Enough of the preparation, what of the trail itself?
The first day's trekking, leaving from Km.82, provides a relatively easy introduction to the trail - the climb is gradual and the distance of around eight miles is comfortable. Take advantage of a semi-decent night's sleep, with mostly clean, dry gear - it won't happen for another couple of days at least.
Day Two sees a more difficult climb, the gradient increasing to rise through 2000 metres in a matter of hours. The first three or so miles are tiring, but little more, and the scenery begins to make up for the exertions - views back across the valley are impressive, growing even more so as you rise above lower cloud cover. However, the going really starts to get tough at the foot of Dead Woman's Pass - a narrow staircase leads to the summit of the tallest mountain faced on the trail, and the weather is going to be cold at best, even in July. Unsuprisingly, it was here we met the blizzard.
Having reached the top exhausted, freezing and quite possibly soaking from falling over repeatedly in the snow, there is nothing to do but repeat the process going back down the other side - watch out for black ice. The snow should fade about 600 metres down. A few miles down this face lies the second night's campsite, with a basic toilet block. Shattered you may be, but it is encouraging to look back up at the mountain you just scaled, and the view across the valley to the distant peaks is awesome.
It is this night you will appreciate the warm, dry clothes that remain the most. Temperatures are likely to be sub-zero. The third day's hike is the longest, but is broken up by stunning sights, both scenery and ruins. Runkurukay lies half-an-hour or so up towards the second pass, an egg-shaped structure looking out over the vast valley. The other side of the pass, a couple of hours on, lies Sayacmarca, a daunting fortress shooting out from the rockface over the tropical forest.
Further on, through a narrow Incan tunnel, lies Payupatmarca (Quechua for 'Town above the clouds'). This is probably the least striking of the day's ruins, but affords the first view of Macchu Picchu mountain, marked by a lone flag flying on the Sacred Valley's winds. The citadel itself, though, remains hidden behind it until the last day. From here it is a painful descent to the last campsite. The terraces of Winay Wayna are also near here, if one has the energy left to go and see them.
So to the final day, and the early rise to trek to the Sun Gate - the view of Macchu Picchu you have imagined sits there beneath the rising sun, Huanya Picchu mountain towering beyond the ruins. For all the pictures of the site, only a personal visit can do the citadel justice - it certainly exceeded my expectations.
My only regret is that I did not spend longer there - I saw much of it, but did not climb Huanya Picchu, did not see the Moon Temple. The energy had simply gone after the trail. This is the flip-side of the trek; although it is an amazing experience, and gives you sights you will struggle to forget, it saps your strength to such a degree it is hard to fully appreciate all that Macchu Picchu is.
I guess the ideal approach would be to do the trail, take a brief look around, then retire to lodgings in Aguas Calientes/Macchu Picchu Pueblo (20 mins by bus from the ruins), before returning refreshed for a full day. These will certainly be my actions if I visit again (and I dearly hope I do).
For all I have said about the tough nature of the trail, it is not something only the super-fit can endure - anyone with decent fitness for walking can do it, and there is plenty of time to take it at a leisurely pace - indeed, this may bring the best out of the trail. There are also shorter versions of the trail, plus, of course, the option of taking the train to Macchu Picchu direct. The experience should be off-limits to no-one.
Although costly in total, anyone contemplating the trip will find their investment rewarded many times over. If I could exceed the five-star limit for any of my reviews, this would be the one - a resounding seven out of five for a truly unforgettable experience.
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