Ionian Islands (Greece)

...Lefkas, which is one the Ionian Islands of Greece.

LEFKAS (lefkada) ITHAKI (ithaca) KEFALONIA
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We travelled to the Ionian Island of Lefkas in September 1993. We flew from Manchester airport and flying time was about three and a half to four hours. We arrived at the smallest airport we have encountered at Prevesa on mainland Greece.

This airport ...
...We finally returned to the Ionian Islands in 2001 when we visited Zante. Laganas Bay which was our resort was over developed and very commercialised. Despite this I have very fond memories of Zante, as the island itself had some strong attractions and our accommodation, as a base, was fine.

We flew again from Manchester with roughly the same flying time. The journey from the airport was relatively short and fairly flat all the way. ... more

We were late starters to foreign travel due to one hundred and one reasons in our life. When we finally booked to fly abroad it was to Yugoslavia. As we arrived home from the travel agents the news on our television showed the start of the war out there. After many months we finally got our money back and picked Malta. That was an excellent holiday, but another story.

Having whetted our appetite for foreign travel we browsed the brochures on our return from Malta wanting to pick somewhere we really fancied for the next year. We had relatives who had gone to the Greek islands in the past so somehow or other we ended up picking Lefkas, which is one the Ionian Islands of Greece.

LEFKAS (lefkada) ITHAKI (ithaca) KEFALONIA
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We travelled to the Ionian Island of Lefkas in September 1993. We flew from Manchester airport and flying time was about three and a half to four hours. We arrived at the smallest airport we have encountered at Prevesa on mainland Greece.

This airport was so small that we had to stand on the tarmac until the passengers of the departing flight were through customs and on their plane. There was just no room at all. They did call it an international airport but ha ha, springs to mind. The toilets and facilities were not very clean and first impressions were not good. We were told not to take photos in the airport as it was an old military one and we could be arrested! All in all I think it is suffice to say that we started to have some doubts.

However it was mid-morning and lovely and warm. The coaches set off for our resorts. It was about a half hour trip to Lefkas. There was the usual green, hilly scenery on the way and the interminable bazouki music playing, which we grew to love by the time we were on our way home.

As you approach Lefkas there is a sort of bridge or causeway that links the mainland to the Island. This may have changed now. We drove over this and through Lefkas town, the islands capital, to wind our way south.

The scenery was rather special all the way. We stopped at Nidri for some passengers to disembark and thought this resort looked good. We did end up visiting it quite a few times on the local bus and found the swimming really good here and the views spectacular. There was a long sandy beach with loads of tavernas along it and the resort had a lively nightlife if you wanted it. Vassiliki, where we were staying, had only one disco and a few tavernas. Nidri also has some small islands in it's bay which you can visit by boat. There is the Onassis island but this can only be partially visited.

From Nidri we set off over a mountain road. The only problem was that it was incomplete due to lack of government investment. We had to use this road whenever travelling to the north of the island. It was a particularly hair-raising experience and hopefully is sorted now. Don't count on it though.

We finally arrived at our resort of Vassilki later in the day to find that the coach had to manoeuvre a narrow straight road and all the tables outside the tavernas, with great difficulty.

We were staying at the hotel Apollo which was slightly on the edge of town and the hotel manager drove down to pick our luggage up taking it back in a small truck.

We walked the short distance to the hotel getting our first glimpse of the Vassiliki. As always, we looked around unsure, but by the end of a fortnight would gladly have stayed there forever.

Vassiliki is a bay which is surrounded by mountains. It is very pretty. Outside of our hotel was a small pepple beach. Walking into the town there was a long beach, but it was made up of pepples again. The sea was lovely and warm but every afternoon a wind whipped up and the bathing was not so good. However this was what made it a renowned wind surfers beach. If you did venture out the water was a bit sea weedy in an afternoon. We would sunbathe each afternoon and watch the wind surfers glide and battle in the wind. There was a taverna on the beach and as you walked back to the main harbour a row of tavernas and a few local shops.

You could hire sunbeds and parasols on the beach.

When we were there it was still very unspoilt. Some locals did not speak much English and they were very trusting. So much so that, having eaten outside one evening, the owner would not let us in to pay as she had just washed her floor. All we got was "tomorrow, you pay tomorrow", and of course we did.

The hotel where we stayed had an outside terrace for meals. Eating the breakfasts in a morning was a hairy experience as there was a plague of wasps and bees. The waiters used to leave opened tubs of jam and marmalade out to draw them away from the holidaymakers. On an evening, as this terrace was covered with vine leaves, the hotel manager used to reach up, take a few, and make his own stuffed vine leaves to serve fresh each day.

The town road was flat but it was hilly all around the Island. Ok for walking but a bit more difficult for cycling.

Here, on Lefkas, we experienced our first Greek salads. Tomatoes, onions, olives, cucumber and Feta Cheese, with Greek yoghurt made with goats milk and served with honey for dessert. You find in Greece that you can share a starter or a main meal and its no hassle as they just bring one portion and two lots of cutlery. The prices were very competitive.

You could take a small ferry from Vassiliki to Porto Katsiki or a small beach around the bay in the other direction called Agios Fili. You could walk to the small beach, and we did, but it was rather a steep climb down, and there was no proper walkway. Also you needed water with you as there were no facilities there. A couple of times we walked there and got the boat back. This white stone beach was however a paradise. You could snorkel watching the myriad of fish around here. Porto Katsiki however had a taverna at the top above the beach. If you travelled to the beach by boat, and the weather was rough, as it often can be at this headland, the boat would return and not attempt to land.

There was a larger boat which went to Ithaki and Kefalonia on a day trip. This is my only experience of these two islands.

We travelled first to Ithaki. We arrived in a pretty bay with a few small fishing boats and a sandy beach. Hills were all around. We were told the village was at the top and we could either wait for a lift in the back of a wagon or walk up. As time was precious we decided to walk. It was quite a slog but worth it and the views were spectacular. In the village at the top there was a few shops and tavernas. We had our lunch here and thought it would probably be a good Island to holiday on if you were looking for a tranquil stay.

Returning to our boat, the easy way, downhill, we boarded and set off for Kefalonia.

We sailed to Kefalonia landing at Fiskardo harbour which is in the north of the island. The inner part of this island is mountainous. Fiskardo was a very picturesque resort and we were told a fashionable stopping place. Suffice to say it was also a bit pricey. This too was an island that I would like to visit as I think you can still get off the beaten track or go for a wild time. It's up to you so research it and select well.

Arriving back in Vassiliki bay you realise just how beautiful it is with the cloud topped mountains rising up from the sea. We visited Lefakas town and Nidri on the local bus. The bus tickets are not bad prices but remember GMT-Greek maybe time-can make the timetable erratic. We did plenty of quite long walks and found the countryside both pretty and safe. We saw the biggest butterflies ever on a walk(much bigger than a sparrow)

You can hire bicycles or mopeds but watch out for the hairpin bends. You can also hire cars. The local bus service doesn't go all over the island.

We did the tourist trips and the island tour was well worth it. The day we did it the heavens opened and the rain never ceased. Although it was a pain, there was not a lot else to do when it rained, so it was a good job we were on a trip. It took in the west coast were a lot of the best beaches are but they are not easily accessible. We also paid a visit to a monastery with good views over the mainland and Lefkas Town, and stunning art work.

We also visited Sivota bay on the west coast which is an old smuggling haunt. This also was a very scenic place but not easy to get to.

I think that we liked Lefkas especially as it was our first Greek island and it gave us a taste for more. If you like a mixture of the real Greece, with good scenery and bathing thrown in, unless it has changed drastically, you should thoroughly enjoy.

ZANTE / ZAKYNTHOS
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We travelled to a few more Greek islands, having loved the above holiday, namely Cyprus, Rhodes, Crete and Thassos. We finally returned to the Ionian Islands in 2001 when we visited Zante. Laganas Bay which was our resort was over developed and very commercialised. Despite this I have very fond memories of Zante, as the island itself had some strong attractions and our accommodation, as a base, was fine.

We flew again from Manchester with roughly the same flying time. The journey from the airport was relatively short and fairly flat all the way.

This island also has a temperate climate hence the excessive greenery, but it can get very hot in the summer months and very wet in Spring.

Laganas Bay, situated in the south has an extremely long sandy beach and sea which you can walk out in for ages, it is so shallow. There are tavernas and cafes along the beach and you can walk its length to nearby Kalamaki.

This beach at certain times of year has protected Loggerhead turtles nesting on it. However less and less each year, I think. Off the beach is the main strip, a road about as long as the beach set at 90 degrees to it. This road has discos, bars, cafes, restaurants, hotels, cashpoints, chemists and just about any damn thing. So you get the picture if you want the nightlife and are not looking for the real Greece then this is for you.

You can get local buses from here, or take tourist trips. There are nice walking areas around here which are peaceful and pretty and other smaller bays near.

The north of the island is progressively mountainous or hilly and there are some authentic villages here. You can buy traditional lace, honey, olives, rugs and ouzo.

There are resorts on the east coast which are less developed and which have some good beaches.

The locals were friendly and still appreciated the odd yasso or calimera but they are more cynical and hardened than traditional Greeks.

Note-The Ionian Islands also include Corfu and Paxi. I have not visited these, yet, but I know Corfu is a large Island and Paxi a very small, undeveloped one. There are also a few other small islands. The Ionian Islands are situated in the Mediterranean off the west coast of Greece. They stretch south from the Albanian coast to the Peloponnese islands. If you travel in Spring you will see them at their greenest. If visiting the off the beaten track islands a torch,(can be power cuts),and an umbrella,(can rain really heavy, even if not for long) might be useful.

CONCLUSION
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I LOVED THE IONIAN ISLANDS BUT REALLY DISLIKED SOME PARTS. YOU NEED TO THINK WHAT TYPE OF HOLIDAY YOU ARE LOOKING FOR, DECIDE AND LOOK AROUND. YOU ARE SURE TO FIND THE RIGHT ISLAND AND RESORT FOR YOU.

Thanks for reading
(C) Eiley 2008 

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