Scottish Fantasy and Horror Writer, I've sold more than 150 short stories in SF, fantasy, and horror...
Scottish Fantasy and Horror Writer, I've sold more than 150 short stories in SF, fantasy, and horror magazines and e-zines; with a story collection, The Johnson Amulet and Other Scottish Terrors, and my debut novel "Island Life" out now.
Member since:31.08.2002
Reviews:22
Members who trust:8
I last visited Skye more than ten years ago. Back then I was using public transport on rickety old buses across single track roads. Recently I've been lucky enough to get a new car, and Skye has been the benificiary of upgraded roads courtesy of the EU. I thought it was time to bring the two together.
Using the aforementioned new roads it is perfectly possible to drive around Skye in a day. Personally I'd recommend taking more time over it, but a whistle-stop tour does at least give you a flavour of the scope and grandeur of the island.
I started in the obvious place. The new road bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh dominates the skyline, but its long sweeping modernist curve looks strangely appropriate and leads you across, island hopping on a thin concrete strip.
At first the road is
straight and relatively flat, giving no warning of the views to come, but once you reach the village of Broadford and head for Sligachan you are on a coast road that takes you along the side of spectacular sea lochs underneath towering hills.
Take a quick stop at the Sligachan Hotel. This centuries old coaching inn is a favourite stop for ramblers and hill walkers and set in some of the most spectacular countryside in Scotland. As for me, I stop there for the beer. They've recently revived the art of brewing on the island, and one of the new beers, the Red Cuillin, is among the best that Scotland has to offer.
From Sligachan, you follow the coast road alongside more hills and more sea lochs to Portree, the main town on the island. It's well worth your while to stop here. There are several excellent seafood restaurants in the picturesque harbour, along with more inns and hotels to restock the batteries. There's plentiful parking near the town square, and a short walk south will take you to the Aros Centre where you can watch live pictures of the recently reintroduced sea eagles.
From here you take the B855 north along the north side of the island. This is a single track road with passing places, but it is well worth the trip. The road runs beneath a long escarpment, above which Golden Eagles soar and occassionally hunt. On a clear day the views are stunning, and most likely you'll be the only person there to appreciate them.
Follow the road around to Uig. If the mood takes you, you can take the ferry from here to Lewis and the Outer Hebrides. Alternatively, stop at the Ferry Inn and sample some island hospitality, and more great beer.
The main road takes you back round towards Portree, but at the crossroads, you should go right, heading for Dunvegan. Halfway there you could stop at Edinbane and visit the small pottery to see local craftsmen in action,
Dunvegan itself is well worth a longer visit. The castle, ancestral home of the clan McLeod, is a splendid mixture of architectural styles, the Fairy Flag is worth of a column of its own, and the bay boasts boat trips to see the local seal colonies. There's more beer and victals to be had in the village, and several local craft shops dotted along the road south out of town.
This road leads you back to the Sligachan Hotel, but do try to keep your eyes on the road. The views on this stretch are spectacular, and diverting. The Cuillins, both black and red, jut starkly skyward, their peaks coated in snow even as late as June. Hardy walkers climb the foothills, and seasoned mountaineers use these parts as training for bigger prizes in the Alps and Himalayas. Don't worry if you miss the view at one corner - the next one is usually better, and there are plenty of parking places at the side of the road.
Take a detour along to the Talisker distillery. The fiery, peaty whisky they make there is one of Scotland's great treasures. It'll put hairs on your chest, man or woman!
From Sligachan you head back to Broadford, and thence back to the bridge, but if you've got time, take a trip south on the Armadale road.
This road has been much improved thanks the EU, and once more offers stunning views of sea lochs and hills, this time those of the mainland beyond. There are several wonderful country house hotels offering seclusion, hospitality and views.
Armadale itself has several good hotels, fine gardens, or a ferry to take you over to the mainland, to Mallaig and Fort William beyond that.
As for me, I return to the Isle Oronsay Hotel. I buy a beer and sit on the harbour wall watching the sun paint the hills in russets and reds as it goes down behind me. It's about as close to heaven as you can get and still be alive.
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Advantages: beautiful scenery, peaceful, silent Disadvantages: Very dependent on the season and the weather. And the weather is often fickle with tourists.
Sep 3rd, 2002
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