One of the largest and best known Scottish islands, Skye has long been acclaimed for its stunning mountain scenery, abundance of rare wildlife and real “get away from it all” feel. At present, its population count is just under twelve thousand, yet this number is rising steadily every year when people who return every year on holiday decide to make it their home. Skye is the perfect location for walkers and mountaineers with a wide variety of walks and climbs to suit all abilities, from the renowned Cuillin range for the experienced mountaineer to the vast rock formations of the Quirang or the 160ft needle of volcanic rock known as the Old Man of Storr. On clear days the views from these places are superb, yet even when they are bathed in swirling mists, they become mystical and calming. There are also many places just to enjoy ambling through, e.g. the Fairy Glen near Uig Bay. This is a magical place, well named, as it captures all the charm of fairies with its strange conical mounds and sloping hillocks formed by countless landslips over many years. Exploring Rubha Hunish, Skye’s most northerly point, is rewarding without being extreme; the breathtaking views of the entire northern Minch are compensation for the steep climb down the rocky footpath which meanders down the cliff; also many of Skye’s seabirds are easily seen from the shore, jewelled with rock pools below the cliff top.
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Rubha Hunish (pron. Roo-er Hoo-nish) stands the famous ruin of Duntulm Castle, the ancestral home of the MacDonalds. It is believed to have been built in the Iron Age or earlier and was thought to be of such importance during its construction that soil from seven kingdoms were brought to Duntulm to ensure productive gardens. The castle was occupied until 1782 and although dilapidated and crumbling from the thousands of years of Skye weather it has endured, a strange air of ancient wisdom surrounds it.
Trotternish, a small rural community strewn along the north coast of Skye, ranks among the most historic areas of the Scottish Highlands. Even now history is being discovered just a few miles south of Trotternish in the form of an archaeology site which from personal experience proved to be a fascinating insight into a way of life hundreds of years ago. From Vikings to Picts and Celts, remnants of these ancient cultures are evident today; in place names (e.g. the name Trotternish is said to have originated from the Norse language and translates as “Thrond’s Headland”) and also in the form of abandoned settlements, standing stones and numerous castles in various states of disrepair. One of these castles is accompanied by a legend of old – Caisteal Uisdean, Gaelic for Hugh’s Castle. It is said that Hugh held great contempt for the chieftain of that time and hatched a sinister plot to murder him at a banquet he was hosting. He wrote a letter of invitation to the chieftain and another hiring an assassin for the fateful night, but unfortunately Hugh confused the two letters. When the chieftain received the letter informing him of his planned murder, Hugh was brought to Dunvegan Castle immediately and locked in the dungeon with only a joint of salted beef and an empty pewter jug to sustain him. As it is easy to imagine, he suffered terribly for his sins, dying a lengthy death from thirst.
North Skye is most often associated with the celebrated story of Bonnie Prince Charlie and FloraMacDonald. Charles Edward Stuart, born in Rome in 1720, attempted an invasion of England but due to a lack of promised support from France, he was forced to retreat to Scotland, where he suffered a devastating and humiliating defeat at the battle of Culloden and became a fugitive. He encountered Flora MacDonald on the small Scottish island of Benbecula and the two fell in love. She agreed to smuggle him to Skye and with Charles disguised as Flora’s maid, Betty Burke, they crossed over the sea to Skye, landing a few miles south of Duntulm where he was helped safely back to France by his sympathizers in Skye. After being released from the Tower of London where she was imprisoned for her part in Bonnie Prince Charlie’s escape, Flora returned to Trotternish in Skye and lived there for the remainder of her days. Her final resting place is Kilmuir, in the south of Trotternish, where a large memorial in the shape of a Celtic cross remembers the deeds of a heroine.
Skye is rich in culture and history and attracts thousands of tourists every year. Due to this enormous popularity, it is easy to find craft shops or cottage museums to visit. Most of Skye’s inhabitants are connected with the tourism industry in some way, most providing accommodation in the way of B&Bs or self-cateringholiday cottages. More unusual accommodation can be rented; the old coastguard cottages situated on the cliff top of Rubha Hunish have recently been renovated and now serve as holiday lets. The Skye Museum of Island Life, a perfectly preserved cluster of thatched blackhouses on an exposed hill in Kilmuir, near Duntulm, which overlook the Isle of Harris are well worth a visit as each one illustrates a different aspect of Highland life a hundred years ago.
In addition to its incredible views and scenery, Skye attracts many visitors due to the wildlife which thrives within. Birdwatchers are lured by the promise of golden sea eagles, the elusive corncrake or majestic buzzards, while the still, tranquil lochs sheltered by rugged mountains attract many anglers. A wide range of sporting activities are offered at the White-wave centre in Kilmuir; sea kayaking, diving, archery or windsurfing, just to name a few. The slightly less adventurous may well settle for pony trekking, swimming or perhaps just a round of golf at the local golf course.
Tourists have enjoyed Skye as a holiday destination since Victorian times, even Royalty have honoured the island with frequent visits and it is easy to see why. Skye is an breathtakingly beautiful place – “our little corner of paradise” as one local crofter fondly describes it.
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Advantages: beautiful scenery, peaceful, silent Disadvantages: Very dependent on the season and the weather. And the weather is often fickle with tourists.