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In February we were lucky enough to spend 3 weeks on the isle of Skye (should have been 2 ½ weeks but we got snowed in)! This review is by no means a comprehensive account of all there is to see and do on the beautiful Isle of Skye, but I have tried to give a taste of what the island is like and have included some of what I think are the highlights. I hope it is helpful to anyone planning a trip to Skye.
Some basic information *********************
The Isle of Skye is situated off the north west coast of Scotland and can be reached by either a short ferry crossing from Mallaig (summer time only) or by crossing over the bridge at the Kyle of Lochalsh.We crossed via the toll bridge. The toll is £5.70 per car in the summer (each way) and £4.70 in the winter. Registered disabled drivers who are exempt from paying road tax can cross free of charge. If like us you plan to drive, then once you get beyond Glasgow you are in for a treat! The scenery is really stunning.
Skye is the largest of the islands, which make up the Inner Hebrides; it has 350 miles of coastline and is 50 miles long and from 7-25 miles across. Skye has a population of 8,847, which means its residents have plenty of space! Skye is a rugged island and if I tell you the name Skye comes from the Norse meaning cloud you will get a clue as to what the weather may do! Although Skye can often be wet and windy, when we were there in February we experienced warm sunshine followed within hours by blizzard conditions. Heavy snow is unusual for Skye as it is at the tail end of the Gulf Stream and rain is more usual. The thing to note is that the weather on Skye is changeable, one minute the sun can be shining and the next the mist can close in, so always be prepared when out walking!
What’s on offer here? ****************** Tourism is an important source of income for Skye and in season it is well set up for its visitors with plenty of good quality accommodation and places to eat. However there are no high tech attractions on Skye and its museums
are small and intimate. We enjoy walking, climbing and being out doors generally and Skye has numerous walks of varying difficulty and some of the best climbing in Europe. I have listed some of the things we enjoyed and I hope you will too if you go! There is a tourist information centre in Broadford that can be contacted on 01478-612137 should you want any particular information.
1. Portree is the largest settlement on Skye and has a good range of shops including a well-stocked and friendly co-op. The harbour is very pretty with brightly painted houses and fishing boats to watch, something my children loved. Fresh fish can be bought from a hut here too although it is not cheap. Portree has a small indoor swimming pool which when we were there was not what you would call warm! There is a small and really friendly library where you can rent videos in addition to local interest books both in Gaelic and English. On the outskirts of Portree is the Aros Heritage centre, where you can experience some of Skye’s history. There is also a camera fixed on a sea eagles nest and when these birds are not nesting, a good display about these beautiful birds. The Aros centre also has a basic restaurant and houses a small cinema. I would not recommend the history tour, as it was poorly done and expensive. Goods on sale here such as local beers (made from porridge oats)! Can be purchased much more cheaply from the co-op! There is a walk through the trees behind the centre where you can get a good view of the harbour. Portree is, in my opinion, far more attractive than Broadford, Skye’s other main centre.
2. Kylerhea otter haven in the south of the island is reached by a single-track road, over a mountain. A short rough track (suitable for a buggy) leads to a well-equipped hide. We were lucky enough to see 4 otters playing and feeding even with our noisy 2 year old! In February we had the hide to ourselves, but I suspect it gets busy in the summer. If you are not as lucky as we were then you may want to check out the Bright water visitor centre in Kyleakin a nature reserve where you are very likely to see otters. However it is only open from April until October so was closed when we were there. Also in the south of the Island is Arndale castle open from April until October as we did not visit I can’t comment on this one.
3. North of the Island, an area known as the Trotternish peninsula has some amazing dramatic coastal scenery. The old man of Stor is a famous landmark and there is a good walk to the pinnacle. The village of Staffin has the only partly sandy beach on the Island and is a good place to take children. At the top of the peninsula is Duntulm castle, a ruin deserted in 1739 reputedly because it was haunted. This is a really atmospheric place with a drop straight down the cliff to the sea. There is no charge to enter the ruins.
4. If you feel like venturing to the outer Hebrides, then the ferry leaves from Uig also in the north of the island. We had planned to go to north Uist but ferry times meant an overnight stay would have been needed and we were unable to find any accommodation on Uist despite phoning numerous places. If you want to go I suggest you book ahead!
5. If like us you enjoy a challenging walk then the area known as the Quiraing is for you! Situated to the north of Staffin The Quiraing consists peaks of basalt rock which has been formed into many weird shapes over thousands of years. The views from the top are unbelievable and well worth the climb, even with a heavy child on your back!
6. The Waternish peninsula to the north west of the island is very quite even in the summer. We drove here to visit Trumpan church. Legend has it that in 1578 the MacDonald’s of Uist came across in boats and set fire to the church
Pictures of Isle of Skye (Scotland)
View from Raasay
whilst a large number of their enemy, the McLeod’s were worshipping inside. My oldest child was fascinated by Skye’s turbulent history and this place certainly brought it alive! There are several great walks in this part of the island with views across to Harris, Lewis and the Uists.7. Also in the northwest is Dunvegan castle, ancient stronghold of the McLeod clan. We arrived here during a fierce blizzard and were the only visitors. The woman on the door was so shocked to see a family on such a day that she let us in with no charge! You will probably not be so lucky and will be charged £5.50 per adult and £3.00 for a child. The castle was great fun for our 6 year old. He really liked the dungeon complete with groaning sound effects! Admission price includes a quiz for children with a prize at the end of the month for the lucky winner. My son was thrilled to get a parcel through the post with goodies recently. The castle has lovely gardens which go down to the sea and in the summer boat trips run around the island.
8. A short trip from Dunvegan castle is one of my favourite places on Skye. At the small hamlet of Claigan a track leads for a few miles to what are known as the coral beaches. As you round the headland the black basalt beach gives way to what appears to be a white sandy beach. The sea appears turquoise here and the whole area looks tropical, shame about the cold wind! There are wonderful views of the Outer Hebrides from the beach. We sat and watched seals playing only feet from were we were. Our children loved it here and played for hours climbing over the rocks and watching the birds.
9. Another highlight is Elgol 14 miles from Broadford.We came here to walk right in the heart of the Cuillin Peaks. The village itself is very beautiful with great views of the peaks and the islands of Eigg and Muck. We set off from Elgol to walk to the beach at Camusunary.The walk is listed as fairly difficult, which is a real understatement! The path is very dangerous and takes you close to the edge of the cliff. If you have children, I would advise you not to attempt this walk. Instead park a few miles before you get to Elgol and hike over the peaks on a safe (if hard work) path that leads to Camusunary and on into the mountains if you are feeling energetic! There are no sheer drops on this route so it is safe for children. The beach is lovely and again was deserted when we were there. There is a very basic mountain Bothy here, where you can stay free of charge, if you really want to. If you do attempt this walk take plenty of food and water and rain gear as the weather can change quickly.
10. The isle of Raasay can be reached via a 15-minute ferry crossing from Sconser. The day we spent on Raasay was another highlight. The island only has one road and felt really remote. We walked to see the ruins of a crofting settlement, deserted during the clearances. I love to teach my children history in this way!
11. Wildlife spotting is easy on Skye. We saw numerous golden eagles and even saw a rare sea eagle near Portree once! Whales and Dolphins are often seen especially off the coast at Neist point in the northwest. There are many species of birds not seen elsewhere in Britain too. During the summer you will have to share the Islands with thousands of midges, take plenty of repellent!Accommodation and eating out
There are plenty of good places to stay on Skye. We stayed in Portree in a self-catering croft. There are plenty of similar places to rent, try looking on the Internet. The lonely Planet guide to Scotland’s Highlands and islands also lists many hotels, bed and breakfasts. We choose to stay in Portree as it is well served and is a good base to tour other parts of the Island. We choose not to eat out, but if you want to there are some really good restaurants on Skye including the world famous Three Chimneys at Colbost.I can however recommend the granary bakery in Portree for filled rolls and cakes to take for a picnic!
In summer there are numerous boat trips available and Skye offers some of the best scuba diving in Europe, the tourist information centre will be happy to advise you on courses. There is a whisky distillery at Talisker where tours are available and good walks in this area too. Skye is not somewhere to go if you are looking for sandy beaches or sea swimming. The tides are treacherous and as I have said there are no real sandy beaches. We love the Isle of Skye for its unique beauty, wonderful sunsets and friendly people.
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Advantages: Scenery; wildlife; getting away from it all Disadvantages: Dreich if the weather closes in...
blackpuddinonnabike 20.11.2007 (20.11.2007)
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Review of Isle of Skye (Scotland)
Advantages: beautiful scenery, peaceful, silent Disadvantages: Very dependent on the season and the weather. And the weather is often fickle with tourists.