Zagreb’s main square "Trg Bana Jelacica" (a "trg" - pronounced "turg" - is a square, often a marketplace)is the vibrant heart of the Croatian capital and it’s a fine place in the Austro-Hungarian tradition, not dissimilar to squares you might find in cities like Vienna. It’s pretty hard to miss the square because it serves a number of functions; it’s a major hub for tram services, it is an ideal and convenient place to meet people, it contains a couple of important monuments and it’s close to a number of important and popular attractions, and it effectively forms the buffer between old town and nineteenth century Zagreb. Throw in that it is where you’ll find the main tourist information office and you can see why it’s almost impossible to miss.

If you arrive in the square from the direction of the train station, do take care as you cross the tramlines: the trams can sometimes be quite quiet as they approach and, although the driver will sound a warning, you could get quite a surprise.

The square is named for Josip Jelacic, a Croatian hero and viceroy who defeated the Hungarians in an uprising in 1848, although there has been a square of sorts in this location since the seventeenth century. There is a statue of the man himself on horseback which is more or less the main focal point in the square. His sword is raised and pointing towards Hungary; when the statue was installed in 1866 some councillors thought this was not appropriate but clearly this objection was not sustained. The statue was removed, however, in 1947 because the new socialist government regarded Jelacic as an Austrian collaborator and symbolic of Croatian nationalism which not good when Tito was trying to unite the Slavs; the square was according named trg Republike. Fortunately a gallery curator kept it hidden and in 1990, after Croatians voted for independence from Yugoslavia, Jelacic’s role in history was reconsidered as important and the statue was therefore reinstalled.

Another trg Bana Jelacica monument also has an interesting history – the Mandusevac fountain. In 1987 the World Student Games were held in Zagreb and a great deal of work was done to tidy up the city. Some workmen unearthed an old stream - the MedvešÄÂ�ak stream – and also the fountain of the same name that had been covered in 1898. The first time we visited Zagreb in 2003 it was a warm September evening and some young kids were stripped to the waist, diving into the fountain to get the money thrown in by tourists. In 2009 on a hot July day, many of the tourists were cooling their tired, hot feet in the fountain!

Both the Jelacic statue and the Mandusevac monument are popular places to meet up with friends as they are both surrounded by a couple of steps which make a good place to sit. However, there are several cafes to sit at in good weather and indulge in a bit of people watching while enjoying a coffee - or a beer if you prefer. Be warned though, sitting at one of these cafes is pretty costly so get off the main square if you’re on a tight budget.

Each day in summer a small craft and souvenir market sets up on the square. Some of the stall holders wear traditional dress and give demonstrations of the skills involved in whatever it is they make to sell. There are always lots of cute things bearing the popular heart-shaped Zagreb logo as well as lavender, art pieces and handmade wooden items. The jewellery is certainly worth a look – some is young and fun, and there is some delicate silverware too.

There are often musicians and dancers performing in summer. On our last visit a group of Croatian school children were performing; perhaps not everyone’s cup of tea but my elderly parents loved it!

On one corner of the square is the large tourist information office where the knowledgeable staff speak a range of languages so you should find someone to help you. There are excellent free maps of the city centre and city surroundings that also include a useful public transport guide.

While the square is surrounded by a wealth of very attractive buildings in a variety of styles – classicist, secessionist and so on – they are slightly spoiled by the huge advertising hoardings which seem to be considered acceptable (perhaps necessary for the income they provide) in this part of the world. It is certainly blight but you can still enjoy a good proportion of the buildings. Every time we visit my partner and I set ourselves a challenge to choose our favourite apartment – with an endless variety of window and balcony styles we seem to choose a different one each time we visit as something new always catches the eye, something you didn’t spot last time.

Many of the large international fashion and luxury chains are in this square so if you are an avid consumer this is a good area to head to. Personally I prefer the more relaxed (and cheaper) Dolac market which is just behind the square. Radiating off the square are other shopping and commercial streets the ones to the south are more modern, the ones behind the square and towards the cathedral are quainter.

While you may only pass through this square on the way to somewhere else, do take a look at the statue of Jelacic and definitely take a look up over the shops facades and appreciate the splendid buildings.