On our whistle-stop tour of Amman we'd been steered away from the amphitheatre and the nymphaeum on the grounds that "there's better to be seen tomorrow". So we only saw the amphitheatre from high on the citadel hill and the nymphaeum as we wandered past it at street level. "Trust me", Mahdi said – and already we did. ''Tomorrow'' in this case was to be Jerash. ''Roman ruins'' the itinerary said ''about 3 hours''. Now, I'm a lover of bits of old stone and can get quite excited about ruins. Three days in Petra (all still to come) sounded only just enough, but three hours in Jerash? I mean, how ...
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