Well I’ve just returned from Jerusalem, Israel after spending a year out studying ancient Hebrew texts, law and philosophy, most of which have been written around 1700 years ago. That’s the beauty of Jerusalem, the history, you can’t get away from it, it’s the place to remove your ‘self’ away from the materialistic life of western life and delve into something more spiritual and un-worldly, possibly even heavenly.
Don’t get me wrong the city and Israel is very sophisticated, easily the most technologically advanced county in the Middle East and probably most of Eastern Europe. That’s Israel greatest export - brainpower.
All buildings in Jerusalem are made from Jerusalem stone, the same type of stone as the Western Wall, the last remnant of the 2nd Jewish Temple destroyed in 70AD by the Romans, but behind each apartment or complex you’ll find a melting pot worth of history, within each family a rich diversity of Religion, politics and family life.
I expected to go to find a city on the edge because of the ‘walking animals’ that blow themselves up and kill people, but the city is calm, friendly and very young. That’s human nature for you, after falling Skud missiles, threats from gas attacks, hundreds of suicide bombing, even all out war with neighbouring Arab countries, one just becomes immune to threat. I purchased a gas mask for 200 Shekels (£27) not that it would help but you have to hide the miracle and make an effort.
Jerusalem is built on a mountain, so the weather is beautiful in spring, hot in the summer 80F+, gorgeous in autumn and pretty nippy in winter with rain or snow. The whole of Israel is likened to a deer skin. Just like a deer skin once skinned, you wonder how such a small hide could’ve covered such a large animal, you wonder how Israel (the size of Wales) houses it’s 5+1/2 million inhabitants and growing at the rate of 50k+ a year.
Jerusalem in divided into East and the rest. East is no mans land for anyone but an Arab, the rest is open to everyone. The Old city has the most enchanting feeling you could imagine, mystical and spiritual. Friday night is the best time to be near the Western Wall in the Old City, just to soak up the atmosphere of the Jewish Sabbath. They say it’s the last remaining place on earth that G-d’s presence is still felt. Just to be on the Mount of Olives and see the breathtaking view of Jerusalem is worth the visit alone.
There are many superb vantage points in and around Jerusalem because of its mountainous nature. The highest is where Samuel the Prophet who anointed King David is buried. There are many parks, museums and relics to visit. One of my favourites before the interfada was the Arab market in the Old City, you can just get lost in the hundreds of stalls and winding alleys. You stop for a mint tea, step inside a dilapidated door and they enter a coffee garden with birds in cages hanging from the trees. There are many hidden gems in what they call the golden city.
There are plenty of hotels, shops, restaurants galore, coffee places and you can buy most things you would find in Europe. Taxis are an experience with each driver a character in his own right (but always insist on the meter) a 20 min journey in a cab would cost about 40 shekels (£5.45). Buses are easy and fast and cost one price 5.20 shekels (70p)
To get away from the main tourist places. You really need to find yourself a private guide or a religious Jew and check out the most amazing scene you will ever see on a Friday night. They call it a ‘tish’ which I think is Yiddish for table, it encompasses a very long table with a spiritual leader or Rabbi sitting at the end and all his followers sitting around it, around the table is scaffolding or terraces where hundreds of young Hassidic Jews stand and sing centuries year old melodies and tunes. Absolutely mind blowing. It really is not from this world. Just to speak to truly devout men and women whose minds are not cluttered with sex, money and material is an experience that could change your outlook on your life for good.
Of course there are outlets for every type of spiritual leader and religion, Be it Rabbi’s, Priests, or Muslim leaders. Would you expect no less from the religious capital of the world. Hundreds of Synagogues, Churches and Mosques oversee your every step around the city. I just loved walking around and getting lost, always finding something new and old. There is plenty to buy. This is the place for souvenirs, rugs, ancient pottery, crafts, religious artefacts etc. Don’t forget to haggle.
The inhabitants of Jerusalem are a mix of very religious and secular Jews. There are thousands of solders walking around with guns strapped to their bodies, the women looks something out of Tomb Raider and wear a machine gun as if it’s a fashion accessory, its pretty amazing to see a beautiful Israeli girl with long flowing hair polished nails, in a rather tight army uniform sporting an Uzi sub machine gun or a AK47 assault rifle. There are many all female police patrols or even roadblocks so there is a very even balance between men and women.
Beer is cheap, whiskey is extortionate as its taxed 400% or something ridiculous, I took my own supply for the year. Of course there is cheap whiskey if you are desperate. Oh and plenty of excellent wine, especially Golan wines. Food is Mediterranean style, with salads, cheeses, falafel and meat shishkibabs the most popular.
There are all walks of life from all over the world living in Jerusalem. You don’t have to be Jewish or religious. The place is magnetic. No one knows how the other person survives money-wise as prices can be a little dear and wages are very low, but some things are worth sacrificing for and Jerusalem is one of them.
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