Karystos, Greece

I lived in Karystos for three years and still visit on a regular basis. I got a job there, teaching English, purely on spec. It was one of those accidents that prove you've done something good at some point in the past. I just wish I could remember what!

Karystos is a fishing town at the southernmost point of the island of Evvia. Evvia is actually the second biggest island in Greece, after Crete. This fact is relatively unknown, due ...
...closest there is actually a bridge. It hugs the coast of Attica very close to Athens and is loosely classified as one of the Sporiades group of islands. It is also little known because it has no major resorts. At least none which are used by the major package tour companies. Except for Karystos.

Well not except for Karystos actually. A couple of tour companies tried to develop the town in the nineties but it turned out to be just too ... more

I lived in Karystos for three years and still visit on a regular basis. I got a job there, teaching English, purely on spec. It was one of those accidents that prove you've done something good at some point in the past. I just wish I could remember what!

Karystos is a fishing town at the southernmost point of the island of Evvia. Evvia is actually the second biggest island in Greece, after Crete. This fact is relatively unknown, due to its being so close to the mainland. At its closest there is actually a bridge. It hugs the coast of Attica very close to Athens and is loosely classified as one of the Sporiades group of islands. It is also little known because it has no major resorts. At least none which are used by the major package tour companies. Except for Karystos.

Well not except for Karystos actually. A couple of tour companies tried to develop the town in the nineties but it turned out to be just too Greek for your average package tourist and they largely packed up and went back to Kos. This is both a shame and not so, because it is a unique town with a touch of the paradise to it. So, you will have gathered by now that I'm talking to the more independent tourist. Discos are thin on the ground.

It's extremely easy to get to, for Greece! A two hour trip. From the new Athens airport, there is an express bus to the port of Rafina, from where you hop on one of the ubiquitous ferries over to the town of Marmari, from where you can either get a taxi or the local bus. A journey of about 6k. I recommend the bus because it's a hoot and Greek taxi drivers are bandits. If you want to drive, in Greece, you're obviously insane and won't be let out of hospital to travel!

The town of Karystos clusters around the busy fishing harbour. Opposite the harbour is a promenade of cafes and restaurants. This is the hub of Karystos life. If you face the sea the best beaches are to your right, and they stretch for kilometres and become more deserted the farther you walk around the half-moon of the bay. Behind you will be Mount Ohi, which is about the size of Snowdon. There are walks to the summit if you're mad. The promenade restaurants are a little pricey but if you look in the alleyway on the west side of the main square you'll find an old traditional restaurant which makes its own wine (beware!) and is much cheaper. Ask for Kyriakos' restaurant. The best bar is the Archipelagos, which is a beach bar and is open all year round.

The beauty of Karystos is that it has all that you expect of a Greek island resort and then some, but is unknown, bar the Athenians (who use it as a summer resort) and a handful of Germans. Accommodation will be impossible in high summer because of the Athenians. It's the kind of place you should visit late spring or early autumn. If you're looking for an unspoilt Greek resort to explore one hours ferry ride from Athens, check it out. Ideal for a spontaneous weekend. Beaches, archaeology or just getting pissed staring at drying octopus. Trust me! 

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