Updated now that we've finally transferred the digital camera pics- all the pics were taken by us as we gallivanted around...! One or two details added to op, too.
I went to Kefallonia for the second year running this summer (I'm Greek, and visit the country regularly but I haven't visited a lot of the islands). We travelled from England by car, and found that having a vehicle on the island was useful, although I'm told there's a reliable bus service around the island.
THE ISLAND:
The stunning green island, the largest of the Ionian group, is nevertheless not too big to be hard to navigate. It is roughly triangular in shape, with an extra peninsula. As such, there's an interesting place at every point! The capital is Argostoli, tucked a little way up the west coast of the island, and opposite the beautiful Lixouri peninsula. At the northernmost tip is Fiskardo, at the south eastern corner are Skala and Poros, and half way up the east coast is the setting for THAT film, Sami. I'm just giving a sketch here, I'll go through each place in more detail in a bit!
HISTORY:
The wartime history of the island is now common knowledge thanks to Captain Corelli's Mandolin. And the Italian influences on architecture, language and so on are still evident, especially in the north, where the original architecture remains. It was the only part of the island not to be literally levelled by a hideous earthquake which rocked both Kefallonia and the neighbouring islands of Ithaca, Lefkada and Zakynthos, early one morning in 1953 (NOT 1947 as the film of CCM would have you think). The earthquake is now a part of the national psyche. Anyone old enough to remember it has a story to tell, often tragic. Many old-style buildings are in fact replicas. As in the rest of Greece, all post-war buildings have anti-seismic structures, so please don't be afraid to go...
GETTING THERE:
By air: there is an industrious but quiet airport not far from Argostoli, with both domestic arrivals and charter flights direct from around the world. I have never used it, but speaking to people who have it's apparently well-organised and efficient.
By ferry: car and passenger ferries run to Sami from Patras, taking about 2 and a half hours, using companies such as Blue Star Ferries. An hour north of Patras is the tiny port of Killini, and ferries run from here direct to Argostoli. There are also links to and from the neighbouring islands to Poros, Fiskardo, Lixouri, Sami and Argostoli.
They are comfortable and fast, air-conditioned and usually very recently built. The organisation is less than brilliant; it is an unfortunate habit of many of my countrymen to push, shove, and generally forget the wonder that is the common queue. However, it is still a good, safe way to get to the island- since we drive to Greece and don't want to waste money on a rental when we have out own car, we have twice done it this way, and it's perfectly acceptable.
TRANSPORT ON THE ISLAND:
Cars, obviously, and also taxis (which are red). There are also local bus services and tour coaches that cover the whole island.
There are at least four popular car rental outlets, such as CDR or Greekstones which flood the island with white Suzuki Jimnys! I'm afraid prices are unknown to me, but the profusion of cars suggests they're probably pretty reasonable.
ACCOMMODATION:
Every kind is available, from the humble campsite to the luxury hotel resort of the Cephalonia Palace Hotel. I couldn't possible go into the range and variety without sounding like a tour guide (which I'm sure I do already!). I can only tell you that we stayed in an extremely reasonably priced and comfortable studio flat just outside Argostoli (in a place called Fanari after it's gorgeous little lighthouse). I'll be happy to part with the details to anyone who wants them, just email me.
ARGOSTOLI:
The hub of the island, and the centre of most activities, Argostoli is a pretty port with a palm tree promenade and the biggest variety of shops and restaurants. The main areas worth visiting are the large town square, and the long pedestrianised shopping street, the Lithostroto (means "paved"!). There is a variety of clothes, jewellery and souvenir shops, cafes (internet and regular), a Greek Orthodox and a R. Catholic church and the most understated but gorgeously wonderful bakery called Sesoulas, which turns out the extremely yummy caramelised almonds (mandoles) the island is famous for. In the main square are mostly foody places, but also the town hall as well as the lovely community theatre and museum. (I'm an uncultured lout, I'm afraid, and haven't been to either!)
We found it made sense to stay just outside Argostoli since nowhere on the island is more than two hours drive away. I should give a brief warning here though: there is not much in the way of nightlife here or anywhere else on the island. We discovered to our surprise that we were living right next door to a working nightclub, Notes (one of very few), and hadn't heard a peep from it. According to the locals the noise ordances are so severe, that you can stand outside and hear virtually nothing. Good news all round then! This isn't a party island, but there are a few bars in Argostoli, Sami and Skala. Sami and Skala are particularly popular with Brit tourists- decide for yourself if that's good or bad!
Fantastic deep sand beaches just outside Argostoli in Lassi include Makris Gialos and Platys Gialos (sounds exotic, no? Infact it means Long Beach and Flat Beach...!). Packed at the height of the season, still busy at seasons end but with all the amenities.
SAMI:
Flooded with Corelli-stuff, the actual set is gone! But you can visit the site, from which there are lovely views. We didn't spend a lot of time in Sami, but did end up repeatedly going to the absolutely gorgeous Antisamos Beach. It is all pebble, and not the little shingle type either, so little swimming shoes (sold in Sami centre) are recommended! But the water is deep, clean and filled with tiny fish that nibble at you! It has only one canteen, but there are umbrellas and loungers, and perhaps because of the lack of sand, or the access, which is via a rather precipitous road full of hairpin bends and which is frequently only one lane wide, it's not very busy. It's popular with young romantic couples and older retired couples.
Nearby there is also the Melissani Cave. For one reason or another, we haven't yet taken the row boat trip through what must be a thoroughly stunning underground lake (judging by the postcards!). We fully intend to in the future, though- I'll let you know!
FISKARDO:
This is a tiny village, famous mostly because it's really, really pretty, with original Italian architecture and a picturesque port jammed with little yachts! It's also the favourite haunt of the elite Hollywood pack that have been known to be regulars on the island, such as Tom Hanks. Mostly it's nice just to go up and have lunch at a place like Tassia's, though be warned, it's a little more expensive than most. Then a walk around, and an ice cream! Parking is outside the village and then there is a short walk in, as the streets are tiny and tight and they understandably don't want them clogged up with tourist traffic.
LIXOURI:
Lixouri is more about the beaches than anything else, since the main centre is not as pretty nor as interesting as Argostoli. All the beaches have lovely terracotta sand. Xi Beach is famed but overrated in my view- big and broad, but not really that impressive. Tiny Lepeda Beach is prettier and quieter, and apparently Petanoi Beach is heavenly, though that's on my wish list for next time!
About the rest of the island... well, if I went into this much detail, we'd all be here all day. It's probably best to give an overall picture of the island, and my recommendations.
The island is beautiful because it is covered in lush green scenery (including Ainos National Park) and little coves, bays and beaches that are among the most stunning I have ever seen. As far as activities on Kefallonia go, it depends on what kind of holiday you are looking for. It's not a party island, but there are beaches, walks, hiking, watersports, museums, a theatre, shopping and lots and lots of eating! Speaking of which, if you find yourself in Agia Evfimia go to Dendrinos restaurant and have chocolate souffle! Actually, for foodies this is a fantastic island, especially for seafood fans. It's an excellent family holiday destination for young kids, as there are plenty of sand beaches and children friendly restaurants. Speaking of beaches, the impossibly beautiful Myrtos Beach has to rate a mention. You wind down a cliff-hugging road and suddenly the most jaw-droppingly blue sea appears, edged with a sweeping bay that's not too full of people. It's a star attraction, but for those with young families, it may be worth just looking, not stopping. I was warned by locals and it was mentioned in a guide book we had that the sand shelves away suddenly, and the undertow can be strong. As I was swimming alone, and I'm not a strong swimmer, I prefered to seek shallow waters, like Lepeda, or, like Antisamos, deep water that is approached gradually, so that you need never lose contact with the ground if you don't want to.
Another interesting spot for just quietly relaxing in pretty surroundings is the tiny peninsula of Assos, which sports a population of something like 86 people, a fishing village and a lot of really stunning views (pic included of the village).
I should mention that I always go at the end of the season, in September, when it is warm but not baking, and the sea is lovely. The height is in July and August, as usual, though the sea is swimmable and the weather warm from May through to October.
Prices are extremely variable, but the average meal at an ordinary restaurant runs to about 15-20Eur a head (there are both cheaper and more expensive, but I think the equivalent of about £10-15 each is cheap for what you get, which is lots, and fresh!). Accomodation is anywhere from 40Eur-100Eur a day, depending on what you're looking for. With the impending Olympic Games and the advent of the Euro, prices have gone up in Greece, but it is still on average cheaper than here (especially eating out, petrol and other luxury things). This can be a budget holiday destination. As for flights, well, I'm afraid I couldn't say as I haven't flown, but it does also depend on the season.
My recommendations:
Beaches: Antisamos and Platys/Makrys Gialos and also the lovely, quite quiet and secluded Avithos (complete with gorgeous - and I mean gorgeous - umbrella guy).
Restaurants: Expensive: Dendrinos in Agia Evfimia, Captain's Table in Argostoli. Cheaper: Patsouras in Argostoli and Tsilikos souvlaki bar for the ultimate cheap yummy snack food (at 6Eur, or about £4 a plate, we couldn't finish it).
Sights: The CCM set for gorgeous views, Fanari at sunset, Myrtos Beach, Melissani Cave, Ainos Park and apparently the place to be at sunset is the Kipouria Monastery in Lixouri (the last three of these are based on others' recommendation- should I visit later, I'll put in an update).
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