Having been an ardent lover of Greek Mythology throughout my life it is no wonder that I have now become a devotee to the charm, history, and antiquity of Greece and its many Islands.
I had my first experience of Greece eight years ago. I was on my honeymoon and we spent two weeks on Zante (Zakinthos). Taking a boat trip around Zante we saw kefalonia in the distance and I offered to take my new wife on a day trip to see this Island. She declined, declaring, "One day I will go there", its beauty standing out on the distant skyline.
It got forgotten as things do in this hectic, stressful, fast paced life we lead in this country. Kefalonia was pushed into memories, other destinations taking priority, financial issues, and life in general, until now.
Kefalonia was not our first choice for a holiday this year. Malta, for my wife's family history, and Crete for its historical interest had priority. We were looking for a last minute holiday deal. After looking for several days Kefalonia returned that lost memory with an outstanding cheap holiday that fitted our criteria exactly. It was too cheap to ignore.
Zante and Kefalonia are both Islands in a group of seven called the Ionian group of islands. Kefalonia is the largest but has one of the smallest populations, less than 32,000. With an area of 266 square miles it is mountainous, but the most scenic, and has been voted tenth in the world for places of scenic beauty.
No Greek Island (if you have visited them) is quite the same. They all have different features, attractions, and scenery. Kefalonia is unique for its natural scenery maybe not having the pastoral ambience of Zante, or the greenery of Corfu, the unspoilt history of Crete.
Nature may provide the background, but culture provides the interest. Ionian hospitality is second to none and Kefalonia is no different. You can not expect to see the old way of life here as although Kefalonia's history stretches back to Mycenaean times, (1100-1400 BC) and you can still find rich traces of this around the Island, history was largely destroyed by a huge Earthquake in 1953.
From this event which effectively devastated and flattened the Island emerged new ways, new buildings, and new adapted customs, although still retaining the usual Ionian hospitality.
In modern times the Island came to many peoples attention with the making of the film "Captain Corelli's Mandolin", by Louis de Bernieres, and earlier Homers "Odyssey" was written with strong connections to Kefalonia.
Kefalonia is actually two islands in one with Ithaca just a few miles to the North from whence Ulysses originated. Remember his voyage? Roughly seventy miles long from North to South and fifty miles across from West to East at its widest points, Kefalonia is best described as mountainous, with mount Ainos in the South reaching 5,335ft ( 1,602mts) the tallest, although there are ten other peaks topping over 2,953ft (900mts) spread all over the Island.
All the major towns are around the coast with just a few villages amongst the hills. Fishing, grapes, figs, and olives together with livestock farming provide the main economical mainstay although tourism is increasing its role and making an ever increasing contribution to the economy.
Our arrival
My first impression of Kefalonia was not a particularly impressive one. The airport building was small, the surrounding countryside straggly, uneven, and the surface seemed scorched.
Airport immigration control however was efficient and thorough, and the whole process of baggage collection, immigration, and exit from the airport took less than ten minutes. (Oh why cant British airports be this good?)
Leaving the airport on the transfer coach to resort my pre-conceived idea of Kefalonia's beauty was definitely not prominent. Scruffy half built concrete buildings were in abundance as we passed through village after village. I was also getting quite alarmed at the erratic driving of not just our coach driver with his successive sudden braking but also with oncoming motorists. I would have been continuously thrown across the aisle of the coach if I hadn't been hanging on with both hands.
My opinion started to change as we drove further South towards our destination and soon entered an area of outstanding beauty with the sea on my right and mountains to the left. Arriving at Katelios I was very impressed with our accommodation location just outside the main resort. Nestling in a small valley surrounded by very few buildings and even less people it felt almost remote. Silence reigned.
Day one Katelios
Katelios lies in a valley and is very flat and ideal for those people who don't like climbs. Katelios itself is small and self-contained. Five Taverna/restaurants line the road into Katelios with a further 12-15 in the town itself all knitted close together skirting the beach. The beach itself is a little strange with the Northern part being manmade and the Southern part sandy and long. Katelios is very quiet and even in the centre it appeared there were too many restaurants and not enough people. Boat hire and various other coastal attractions are available and the night time waterside bars are very romantic and quiet.
Day two Scala, Poros, and the boat trip.
This was an early start with the hiring of a boat. (These can be hired at different locations around the island at quite varying prices so look out for the cheaper ones) It cost us 80euros+fuel which ended up at 25euros. We travelled around the coast after being given a lesson by the boat hirer in sailing. We left at 8am and returned at 4pm visiting secluded beaches all to ourselves. (Please take plenty of water it gets very hot and you burn twice as fast.) Later we visited the resort of Scala about 7 kilometres from Katelios which seemed very crowded and definitely more downmarket although it did boast a very long sandy beach but packed with holidaymakers and children. From Scala we had a short drive to Poros, which was very chic. With a spectacular mountain backdrop, a port, and a ferry terminal, the latter did not detract from its natural charm and was a stark contrast to its neighbouring town of Scala with a relaxed atmosphere and lack of human activity. The road runs between the beach and the town with a small selection of taverna's and restaurants to choose from for refreshment.
Day three Saint Gerassimos, Drogarati caves, Melissani lake, Sami, and Antisamos beach.
We decided to hire a car and a typical five day hire for a basic car like a fiat Ciecento or similar will cost about 160euros. Whilst on holiday I sometimes hire a 4x4 or something sporty and fast. However on Kefalonia I would advise against it as the roads are all very windy with many switchbacks with a definite lack of any straight tracks of road. You just do not get a chance to go much above 40mph anywhere on the island although for the real driver it can present a great challenge and the distinct lack of traffic adds to the excitement.
Leaving Katelios our first port of call was the famous monastery of St Gerassimos, located in a valley amongst the mountains where the patron saint of the island lies in an open tomb. This is a massive building, very colourful, and extremely detailed. Paintings adorn the interior all with a background of gold. Next door is a winery for you wine connoisseurs.
Heading west across the mountains our next stop was the Drogerati caves, a magical place straight from Lord of the Rings. Stalactites and Stalagmites adorn this huge underground cave with well placed strategic lighting adding the final touch to the mysterious ambience. The visitor centre has a free swimming pool, 2 restaurants and a good gift shop. (So take your swimming gear). At only 2 euros entrance fee per person this boasts great value for money.
Just a few kilometres up the road is the Lake of Melisani, a 5000 year old underground lake the creator of which was an earthquake. A guided tour costs 5 euros per person and is by boat. Grey mullet and eels inhabit this cave of crystal clear water which is part of an underground river system that goes right across the island.
We had lunch in Sámi situated on the East coast and the main terminal for ferries to Italy and mainland Greece. The harbour side restaurants, long quay, town squares, and openness of the town made it a colourful and relaxing place to be. The nearby beach of Antisamos is picture postcard material although pebbly and with an abundance of wasps which can be a nuisance together with the switchback approach roads it won't be to everyone's taste.
Day four The capitol Argostoli
Argostoli has been the capitol of Kefalonia since 1757. Flattened by the 1953 earthquake it was rebuilt and is now a very popular place to visit. The only place we encountered any traffic or crowds to speak of, during our whole visit to the island. Parking is a nightmare, and shopping is the only reason we visited here and if you like to shop then this is the place for you. A vibrant atmosphere, stylish architecture, a harbour, ferry terminal, and the bridge of Drapano with its charming obelisk in its centre linking Argostoli to the Eastern side of the harbour villages, all add up to make this quite a modern cosmopolitan town.
Day five Lixouri,C-XI beach, B-XI beach.
Lixouri is the second largest town on Kefalonia. Across the palic peninsula only a few kilometres from each other as the crow flies, but a good 50 minute drive around the bay across country. A ferry can be taken between the two at 7euros for a car and two people. We drove around the bay on the outward journey and used the ferry for the return. Lixouri is much quieter than Argostoli and parking is easy as is everywhere else except the capitol.
The town offers wide streets, quiet shopping malls, charming squares, and plenty of flowers, gardens and trees. Lixouri is sometimes known as "Little Paris".
South of Lixouri is C-XI, and B-XI beaches. Very dark almost brown sand is the trademark here together with clay cliffs. I recommend a clay mud bath here and we covered ourselves with clay before washing it all off in the sea. An absolutely brilliant skin cleansing exercise I can strongly suggest.
Day six Myrtos beach, Assos, Fiskardo, and Agia Efimia.
No other comment would describe Myrtos beach other than magnificent. Voted in the top ten beaches worldwide you can't go to Kefalonia without a visit to this beach. Turquoise waters, sandy beach, and a beautiful backdrop all add up to paradise by the sea. The vistas are not omissible and there are several places to stop on the way down to take photographs.
Just up the road is Assos, once the capitol of Kefalonia and still boasting a castle as its highlight and used many years ago as a prison farm. It stands on the neck of a small peninsula and is an artists dream. Some great works of art are to be seen here and the tranquillity, wonderful sunsets, and dreamy pace of life make this place another must-see for visitors.
Fiskardo is almost at the northern tip of the island. Escaping the 1953 earthquake it still retains the old style buildings. I would best describe Fiskardo as a fishing village built on cypress tree covered hillsides. Small and compact it was pleasant, if not a little busy. Wasps were a problem but not to the extent of Antisamos beach.
Agia Efimia is located on the eastern seaboard side of Kefalonia and as you drive down this side of the island you have great views of Ithaca. Nestling in a gentle downward spiralling valley boats from all over the world can be seen anchored in the pretty harbour as you approach. Fine taverna's, restaurants, and local shops adorn the seafront. The beaches here are pebbly but tranquil.
Other places of interest.
We visited almost every town on the island of any interest or consequence. One we omitted though was Lassi, located a few kilometres from Argostoli. The reason was that it is a purpose built resort and although boasts five beaches, it is hilly and seemed to be a little like Scala. People who accompanied us on the same holiday gave it a generally negative overall rating on their stay. Lourdas is another small town bypassed and did not visit, because we passed it on our boat hire day and drove through it on another. It appears to be a quite lively location with plenty of room on the beach.
Weather and health tips
The weather was superb as you would probably expect but Kefalonia does have a bit of a quirky wind. It can be a beautiful day and suddenly the wind will appear and it will sometimes be almost gale force for a few minutes before suddenly returning to still in a few seconds. Wasps are common especially on some beaches but they appear to be a nuisance rather than a danger. Mosquitoes are also common but I suffered only four bites in a week, all whilst asleep and they gave me nothing more than very minor irritation. I suggest you take insect repellent and a bite stick.
General comments and conclusion.
Firstly unless you intend to sit by the pool for the duration of your holiday or stay in-resort, to explore properly and extensively you will need a car.
Many things pleased me generally with Kefalonia, amongst the most prominent, no groups of young people drunk and disorderly, and very few families with young children. Police are practically non-existent as is crime. There is more chance of a fellow holidaymaker committing a crime against you than a crime from a local. Everyone eats when they feel like it and what they feel like; salad for breakfast is as acceptable as English breakfast for tea. Shops open as early as 8am and most don't close until midnight.
Restaurants and Taverna's are welcoming and the service was always faultless. The people are friendly and welcoming and there is never any pressure to eat or drink-up unlike England. Service in the restaurants can take 30 minutes or three hours, you dictate the pace.
Most things on Kefalonia are cheaper than the UK. A pint will cost you about £1.80, but a Bacardi breezer in a bar will set you back £2.80. The imported drinks are always more expensive but the local fare is generally acceptable and a good standard. A two course meal with a couple of drinks will cost from about £10-£15 for two. Cigarettes are around £1.80 for a pack of twenty and they surprisingly stock the more obscure brands. Most common everyday items are widely available and Kefalonia is very modern as regards to public supply and demand. ATMs are easy to access and there is an abundance of them throughout the island. Banks are open from 08.00-14.00 Monday to Thursday and 08.00-13-30 Friday, closed Sat and Sun. Internet is available in most bars, and internet cafes in the bigger towns. Stamps for postcards are 65 cents to the UK, and remember the post boxes are yellow, not red. Kefalonia's voltage is the same as England and the usual two point adaptor can be used to convert to three pin.
Wide screen televisions are common for those who like to watch live football in the busier bars with all the latest English and foreign football matches.
You are allowed to use any swimming pool in any establishment whenever you like, everyone is welcomed.
Apart from the Melisani Lake, Drogerati caves, and some very small aqua parks, there are not many attractions to actually visit. There are some ancient sites most of which are just small almost flat ruins due to the succession of earthquakes the island has suffered.
Kefalonia is definitely not a place for people looking for high profile nightlife with a distinct lack of casinos, discotheques, and nightclubs.
The whole island seems to be geared for the older holidaymaker and especially couples. If you want a quiet holiday I couldn't recommend a place better suited than Kefalonia. The views and vistas, beaches, mountains, and pace of life all add to make it a place well worth the visit.
It's so quiet at times that you could almost feel no one lives there. Complete silence in the mountains and more trees and sand than people, even in the height of season.
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