Toronto is an amazing city with such a diverse range of cultures and peoples all overlapping and intermingling. Kensington Market is a fantastic example of the thriving bohemian lifestyle that cities such as London and New York struggle to preserve and yet is so alive and well in Toronto.
Bordered on the east by Chinatown, the north by the beginnings of Little Italy, and a few blocks to the south by the trendy Queen street district, Kensington draws people from all across the city to shop, socialize, mingle and breathe in the city atmosphere. Being so centrally located, getting to it is very easy, and the Spadina streetcar comes along every minute or two to whisk you to and from the subway.
Kensington as an area was first a residential zone with many of the houses being built in the 1880s to house Scottish and Irish immigrant labourers. By the early 1900s, an actual market was established and run mostly by Jewish immigrants who opened up a tailor shop, bakeries, and other various import shops along the densely-packed streets. In the 1950s and 60s, the area was home to new cultures such as West Indian, Portuguese, Italian and Chinese. Each generation brings new ethnic immigrants and the flavour of Kensington continues to change even though two beautiful Synagogues still nestle almost hidden in the market.
Some people have called Kensington a grimy, scary place (especially during the night when all its narrow streets seem abandonned). But I genuinely feel those people would rather spend their holidays in four star comfort not experiencing the city the way its residents do. If you are brave enough to venture out, you certainly won't be disappointed.
The south end of the market along Kensington Avenue, is full of clothing shops, boutiques and trendy fashions, most of which are designed by locals and sold for dirt cheap. Some excellent Dim Sum and Vegan Chinese restaurants can be found in this area, (which is closer to Dundas), and patios are a-plenty especially in the summer. Live music is also a mainstay in this area both in bars and coffee houses, but also on the streets. What is unique about this area is that residents still live in amongst the shops in colourful Victorian houses that may need the odd repair here and there, but are still essentially full of character and vitality.
As you move north towards the middle of the market, the streets become lined with every conceivable type of food shop - fresh meats, fish, olives and bulk foods, Middle-Eastern specialties, vegetable and fruit stands, more coffee shops, bakeries, and at last count, three cheese shops! There is even a chocoholic's dream shop and a progressive hemp shop with many fascinating items to peruse.
My favourite place to go is Cuppa Joe's on the corner of Baldwin and Augusta, where you'll find amazing lattes served up in an eccentric and tiny environment excellent for people watching, celebrity-spotting and overhearing interesting conversations.
Also try any cheese shop you wander into. They are more than happy to give you endless free samples in hopes of a purchase - and believe me the cheeses are fantastic! I've even found the only Welsh Caerphilly cheese outside of the UK - that's how international the flavours of the market are.
Nearby Denison square is home to a playground for kids, a wading pool and a life-size memorial sculpture of actor Al Waxman in his most famous role as the "King of Kensington" from the mid-70s Canadian television sitcom hit. During the year, several festivals are held in the square and parades congregate here after they've wound their way through the market streets. "Ashkenaz", a Yiddish festival, has held colourful celebrations in the park on and off for a number of years with singing, dancing, and giant puppets to amaze the children. And the family-oriented "Festival of Lights" from mid-December through to mid-January, transforms the area into a celebration of lights and splendor with an annual parade for Christmas and Hanukkah.
As you continue north to Nasau and Oxford streets, the restaurants become increasingly Vietnamese, Mexican, Jamaican, Korean and Japanese. There's a marvellous health food shop along Augusta with excellent deals on soy and gluten-free products, and an amazing fusion restaurant called "Supermarket" that plays host to art fairs, live bands, rock, goth and ska music and film-nights as well as delicious pan-asian cuisine. A skateboarder shop and a really cool bicycle shop are also along Augusta. Keep an eye out for the automobile garden - a car that has been turned into a flowerbed and is very much a symbol of the artistic crowd frequenting the area.
While the market may not be everyone's cup of tea, spending a day there is exactly what you could end up doing! Crowds do swell up in the centre at various times, but mostly the fringes are less busy and more intimate. On Sundays in the summer, the market goes "Car-Free" and its one-way streets becomes a pedestrian's dream. Beer is usually cheap at any one of the dozens of bars and you will certainly find all the international food under the sun. Check out the countless patios and soak up the atmosphere of a truly unique neighbourhood.
Enjoy!
I'd say the market is one of those highly recommended MUST sees of any trip.
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