The backwater cruise through the narrow canals that criss-cross a typical Kerala Village,rich with green paddy fields and verdant coconut trees and is a thrilling experience. The boat cruise takes you to small islets tucked away amidst those waters where you get glimpses of village at the best of its serenity and innocence.The total length of the backwater stretches over 1500 km, with a network of 44 rivers, lagoons and lakes from north to south Kerala.The boats cross shallow, palm-fringed lakes studded with cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, and travel along narrow, shady canals where coir (coconut fibre), copra (dried coconut meat ) and cashews are loaded on to boats. Along the way are small settlements where people live on narrow bits of reclaimed land. Although surrounded by water, locals house their cattle as well as cultivate small vegetable gardens within these quaint surroundings. Prawn and fish, including the prized karimeen, are also farmed.
There are numerous backwater routes to choose from. Vessels ranging from local ferries, to chauffeur-driven speedboats run by the KTDC, to customised kettuvallom cruises offered by numerous agencies as well as up market hotels such as the Malabar in Kochi. The KTDC office at the bus station organises additional backwater tours, including a popular village tour that leaves daily at 9 am. Departure is made from KTDC. The ride costs Rs 300. They offer a 15 per cent discount if you buy your tickets directly from KTDC. One of the most popular excursions is the full-day journey between Kollam and Alappuzha; you can cover part or the entire route in a day, returning to your original point of departure by bus during the evening, or, more comfortably, staying the night at either end. All sorts of private owners offer their services, but the basic choice lies between the boat run by the Alappuzha Tourism Development Co-op (ATDC) and the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), which run one boat daily on alternate days from Monday through Saturday. From December to May, they lay on two boats per day. The double-decker boats depart at 10.30 am. You can buy your tickets from the jetties, or from ATDC/DTPC counters in Alappuzha and Kollam for Rs 150. Both companies make around five stops during the 8 hours 30 min journey, including one for lunch and another at the renowned Mata Amritanandamayi Mission at Amritapuri. Although it is by far the most popular backwater trip, many tourists find the Alappuzha-Kollam route overlong and at times uncomfortable, with crowded decks and intense sun. You can skip the tourist scene completely by catching local ferries. Though a lot slower, you'll get a more intimate experience of life on the water. They can be hired either on a day basis (Rs 3,500 per boat) or overnight (Rs 5,000), allowing you to make the Kollam-Alappuzha trip over two days, mooring in the backwaters overnight. Food can be provided (including a cook) for an extra Rs 400 per person. The DTPC also hires four-seat speedboats for Rs 300 per hour, and six-seaters for Rs 200 per hour. Between a group of people, this can be an economical proposition that allows you to plan your own itinerary. In Alappuzha, the tourist boats are moored across the North Canal from the boat jetty. Go directly to the boats if you don't want to deal with an intermediary tout. A one-way trip to Kottayam costs about Rs 500. Alternatively, there are boat operators like Penguin Tourist Boat Service (Tel: 0477-261522) on Boat Jetty road, who have a long list of suggested trips from Alappuzha. Vembanad Tourist Services (Tel: 0477-251395) and Blue Lagoon (Tel: 0477-260103), both in Alappuzha, also have boats for hire.
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