Advantages: Elegant architecture, plenty of green spaces, lots of museums, good food Disadvantages: Not so good for people with mobility problems
should be aware that the trams can move quickly. On the subject of walking, it's also important to know that the city is essentially on two levels (Gornji grad - the upper town and Donji grad - the lower town) connected either by a moderately steep hill, a short funicular ride or stone steps, depending on where you go up or down. Due to the narrow streets, the one way system and some traffic-free streets, Zagreb is not the kind of city that lends itself to open-topped bus tours ( I did read about a segway tour of Zagreb recently though) so you do need to walk a fair bit if you want to see a lot. Fortunately, café culture is an intrinsic part of Zagreb life so you should do as the locals do and take regular breaks at pavement cafes.
On of my favourite things about Zagreb is the view when you exit the train station. If you arrive by train ...
Advantages: Fascinating, colourful, might get to sample some Croatian foods, shop for a picnic Disadvantages: Can't buy some things if you're in a hotel
Dolac is Zagreb?s very colourful central fresh produce market. It is situated in the area just behind Trg Bana Jelacic and you can access it though a small lane where you see the flower market start. The market was opened in 1930, having been built on the site of a slum clearance; it was agreed by the city's bigwigs that the houses there were not a fitting sight for visitors to a capital city and so they were duly demolished. I was delighted to read that in his speech at the opening of the market, the mayor of Zagreb Dr. Stjepan Srkulj said "?During my visit to Holland this year, ladies and gentlemen, I can honestly say that I did not see a market that was as nice as this...? - and, you know, it is rather special.
Beyond the flower market you can either climb the stone steps to the market proper or go into the main indoor section ...
Advantages: Not hard to find, good craft market, useful transport hub, impressive buildings Disadvantages: Expensive cafes, ugly advertising hoardings
Zagreb?s main square "Trg Bana Jelacica" (a "trg" - pronounced "turg" - is a square, often a marketplace)is the vibrant heart of the Croatian capital and it?s a fine place in the Austro-Hungarian tradition, not dissimilar to squares you might find in cities like Vienna. It?s pretty hard to miss the square because it serves a number of functions; it?s a major hub for tram services, it is an ideal and convenient place to meet people, it contains a couple of important monuments and it?s close to a number of important and popular attractions, and it effectively forms the buffer between old town and nineteenth century Zagreb. Throw in that it is where you?ll find the main tourist information office and you can see why it?s almost impossible to miss.
If you arrive in the square from the direction of the train station, do take care as you ...
