Ko Phi Phi (Thailand)

Ko Phi Phi is the jewel in the crown of Thailand's premier holiday islands. For such a small dot on the map it has so many natural wonders that it would take a week to fully appreciate their worth. For most Ko Phi Phi is recognisable because it provided the location for the filming of 'The Beach' starring Leonardo Di Caprio but thankfully the island has a lot more going for it than this.

Ko Phi Phi is in fact made up of 2 islands, ...
.../> You can get to Ko Phi Phi from Phuket or Krabi on the mainland or from the other islands in the area like Ko Lanta by ferry. The fare averages about 200 baht (5 Euro) and takes just over an hour and a half. As you approach Phi Phi Don the water becomes crystal clear, made turquoise by the rich coral reefs just below the surface. Even as you dock at the jetty it is easy to pick out the shoals of fish that dart every which way in every conceivable ... more

Ko Phi Phi is the jewel in the crown of Thailand's premier holiday islands. For such a small dot on the map it has so many natural wonders that it would take a week to fully appreciate their worth. For most Ko Phi Phi is recognisable because it provided the location for the filming of 'The Beach' starring Leonardo Di Caprio but thankfully the island has a lot more going for it than this.

Ko Phi Phi is in fact made up of 2 islands, Phi Phi Don, the bigger of the 2 islands, and Phi Phi Leh which is uninhabited but is known for its nest collectors who sell on their expensive wares to soup makers all over South Korea and Japan. All the main resorts on Phi Phi Don are close to the village or a short boat ride away.

You can get to Ko Phi Phi from Phuket or Krabi on the mainland or from the other islands in the area like Ko Lanta by ferry. The fare averages about 200 baht (5 Euro) and takes just over an hour and a half. As you approach Phi Phi Don the water becomes crystal clear, made turquoise by the rich coral reefs just below the surface. Even as you dock at the jetty it is easy to pick out the shoals of fish that dart every which way in every conceivable colour.

Phi Phi Don village is compact and is made up of 4 or 5 lively streets selling everything from souvenirs to trips around the island, to snorkelling and diving adventures. There are also many internet resources available which are in the main ridiculously overpriced at 2 baht per minute.

ACCOMMODATION

The guidebooks will tell you that the cheapest accommodation is to be found at Long Beach. This is true but most of the cheaper huts here are very badly maintained and some distance from the Beach. There are many better bargains to be found closer to town and by staying there it cuts out the need to take a taxi boat back (at 50 baht it's not cheap) to your hut at night.

We stayed at the Phi Phi Villa Resort which turned out to be a great deal. It was less than 10 minutes from town and there was a good variety of accommodation available. At the top end, the detached bungalows with air-con were cute but a little beyond our budget at 1,000 baht. For 400 baht we pulled a detached room with ensuite facilities. Comparable bungalows on Long Beach were going for at least 550 baht.

Phi Phi Villa has an attached restaurant with all the standard Thai and Western dishes at reasonable prices. They have a laundry service charging 40 baht per kg. The staff were efficient and polite without ever going out of their way to be overly helpful. I often wonder whether the general situation of no tipping in Thailand means that staff often think they have nothing to gain by offering a friendlier service. Backpackers, who make up a large section of tourists to Phi Phi, are a mean bunch (and I include us in this category) but on the occasions we receive really great service we feel obliged to leave a little above the bill charge.

Our room was spacious and cool although after 5 days there was as much sand on the floor as on the nearby beach. A sandy bed is something you should avoid especially when mixed with perspiration. The shower was cold but not unbearable and the Villa supplied fresh towels daily if required. As our time on Phi Phi coincided with Christmas we couldn't have asked for a better location.

ENTERTAINMENT

Karma just out of town in the Andaman resort has a most laid back feel. The adjoining Beach is bedecked with mats and cushions where you can watch the sun go down or come up as beer is served almost round the clock. Karma is essentially a square bamboo hut but the keen prices and relaxed atmosphere ensures it always has a crowd.

Apache bar is the biggest watering hole on the island. It has a multi-tiered layout with rustic wooden furniture on every level. It may not the most comfortable seating in the world but it looks good. The music policy is middle of the road pop and dance which means that by midnight the small dancefloor is overflowing. Apache also has a comprehensive number of live games from the Premiership, however, trying to pick out Andy Gray over Kylie can be a little difficult (not a problem for some!).

Carlitos Bar is next door to Apache and is renowned for its nightly fire shows. It looks good but the staff were a little too aloof and self important to warrant too many visits. Right in the centre of town you'll find the Amsterdam bar which like the nearby Irish bar lacks anything of worth to connect it to the home country. That said this small bar has a lot of character and its drink promotions of a free vodka and red bull with any beer is hard to turn down.

Jordan's Irish Pub is as plastic as the chairs arranged around its tables. On asking for 'Fairytale Of New York' by the Pogues I was greeted with wide eyed confusion and mirth. Apart from suffering from dodgy credentials Jordan's is a lively joint that lays on live bands and does not close until morning time. The free whiskey buckets served between 12 and 10 past cause riots but this is all part of the fun.

The Rolling Stoned bar is a good laugh. Not intentionally so because the local band do in fact take themselves quite seriously. I never heard such a take on Radiohead's 'Creep' and I hope I never do again. Chilli's Bar and restaurant is a laid back effort with wonderfully realised seasonal lighting and atmosphere. A little pricey though.

BEACHES

Long Beach is by far and away the best beach on the island. It is accessible by foot or by taking one of the many boat taxi's that operate round the clock. If you are coming from the village there is a moderately difficult path that crosses the rocky headlands on the way to the beach. This path is only accessible during daylight hours.

If you decide to hike it to Long Beach you will pass through the Maphrao Resort which sits on a tiny, quiet beach. Here the bungalows are built into the hill and are fashioned in the shape of a sailing boat. There is a restaurant on the beach front that is open for most of the day. Maphrao Beach is unique in that it was here that the first palm trees were planted on the island after one washed up on its shore.

Long Beach is just around the steep headland from Maphrao. The beach itself is surrounded by bungalow operations but retains an exotic quality. There are several restaurants in the area which are moderately priced. Don't expect the staff to smile here though as they are too used to backpacking pocket orange peelers.

The coral reefs at the waters edge are rich with life. The sand is white and fluffy but the strand gets quite narrow at high tide. Snorkelling possibilities are endless and the marine life is so used to human activity that they almost expect every swimmer to have a morsel of food to throw in their direction. The fish are as colourful as they are numerous and you can literally spend hours watching them as they go about their business. Each morning up to 15 black tipped sharks feed near the shore. These animals are completely harmless and run for cover if you get too close (as if!).

There are many beaches within a few minutes walking distance from the village. The quality of these beaches is not as good as at Long Beach but they make a welcome retreat from the noise of the restaurants and bars. Here you can play volleyball or just watch all the activity that takes place around the pier.

ATTRACTIONS

Ko Phi Phi has many natural attractions that rank among the best in Thailand. The diving runs a close second to Ko Tao in the Gulf of Thailand and there are numerous sites for snorkelling. The wealth of fish on view is bewildering and these fish are not shy. If you find yourself on Long Beach you'll marvel at the audacity of the multicoloured fish as they brush against you as you paddle or snorkel.

Maya Bay (Phi Phi Leh) was the location for the filming of 'The Beach'. Although it lacks the beauty that came across in the movie it is certainly worth a visit for the huge limestone cliffs that surround it. More more pleasing on the eye is the exquisite Bamboo island. This preserved National Park (which means an entry fee unless you claim poverty) almost defies description such is its beauty. It must surely rank among the most unspoilt places on earth. The beach has luxurious sand and the water looks like it was distilled. Breathtaking and hard to really appreciate until you are back on board.

Rock climbing is a hugely popular activity on the island or at least on its sister island Ko Phi Leh where the huge sheer cliffs provide a challenge for even the most veteran of climbers. If this is your want then there are plenty of agents throughout town who are willing to lay on a days climbing with all the gear included.

EATING OUT

You get what you pay for and nowhere else on Phi Phi is this old chestnut proven than at Fatty's. Each Sunday Fatty's traditional roast dinner draws in the crowds. Slabs of meat, roast potatoes and generous heaps of vegetables make it a steal at 190 baht. We also enjoyed Christmas dinner there. All these meals come with dessert but you'll often feel so full that you'll have to turn it down.

A more sedate gourmet effort is the Phi Phi Seafood restaurant which has wonderful views of the bay. The terrace is as fresh as the food that is served. Although the prices reach midrange the extra few baht is well worth it.

Vasana Seafood and Viking Seafood vie for the same sort of crowd (the bargain basement). For 90 baht you can choose from a variety of dishes that are literally piled onto the plate. There is nothing gastronomic on offer but only an African bull elephant would come away hungry. With the kitchen located within the same unit as the eating area there are often plumes of smoke blowing through the restaurant onto the street.

Tourism has Ko Phi Phi firmly in its clutches and from what we witnessed new bungalow operations are being constructed at a rapid rate. It is unlikely that the island can continue to retain its current natural beauty if this rate of development continues. The effects of anchor drag and human traffic will doubtless continue to erode the coral reefs. The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) have begun to take measures to cull new developments but just as at home money just seems to talk louder than any environmentally concerned official.

For the time being Ko Phi Phi is one of the worlds most beautiful destinations. It can provide seclusion as well as an idyllic 24 hour party place depending on your motivation. Tourists numbers were down by as much as 70% according to the locals due to 9/11 when we visited which perhaps made us feel a little bit more at home. The crowds will return soon however. Try and get there yourself before global travel erodes the majesty.
 

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