La Paz is occasionally dubbed the highest capital city in the world - this is partly true; lowland Sucre is Bolivia's constitutional capital, although 4,000 metre-high La Paz certainly plays the central role of the nation's cities. Its considerable altitude has hit the headlines of late after football's world governing body, FIFA, banned matches being played in the city, tired of the tendencies of Bolivia and its Andean neighbours, Ecuador and Peru, to switch home matches against the continent's big guns to high-altitude venues, handing them a distinct advantage while their opponents labour in the thin air. This caused considerable outrage amongst the Andean nations, fiercely defensive of their rarefied air, and the ban was eventually overturned after a campaign in which Bolivia's much-loved President, Evo Morales, took part in a football match staged high on a mountainside.

"Wherever you can make love, you can play sports."

Altitude, then, is a major part of visiting Bolivia. Even if you don't come down with the dreaded Soroche, the altitude sickness which decimates many visitors, you'll feel it in some form. However, equally capable of taking one's breath away is the first sight of La Paz - the effect perhaps multiplied by the distinctly underwhelming approach all visitors will make through the sprawling city of El Alto which surrounds the canyon in which La Paz lies. It's truly a stunning, slightly surreal moment when the dusty, worn-down and traffic-jammed streets of El Alto ('the high one') open up at the lip of the great bowl and clear air fills your eyeline. Look down, though, and La Paz spreads out beneath you. The most curious perspective of this lofty first impression is the tops of skyscrapers upon which you peer down; buildings which will soon tower above you from the city floor.

La Paz isn't really a major tourist destination in its own right; there's little here one would file under "must-see". It is, though, a frequent stopping-off point for travellers heading north-south or vice-versa, or for those flying into the country, and the city makes an excellent base for a while, with good access to nearby, more attractive places. Lake Titicaca, very much a key point on the "highlights of South America" trail (insomuch as one exists) is a couple of hours away by bus, while the historically important if visually unimpressive ruins of Tiahuanaco are an hour or so to the west. The Peruvian border is also close.

This could reasonably be considered the centre of the city, or at least serves the purpose well for travellers looking to get a sense of La Paz. From here, head up either Calle Sagarnaga or Santa Cruz and plunge into the network of street markets that may well provide the most enduring memories of the city - there are plenty of stalls selling relatively commonplace goods; tourist trinkets, cheap and delicious food, often quite excellent artwork - but you'll also encounter the weird and wonderful Witches' Market. Browse around here for your less standard souvenirs - fancy taking a Llama foetus home? You've plenty of choice.

When you've had your fill of the delights of the backstreets behind San Francisco, head back to El Prado, and take a left (up the slope), wander up to the busy intersection and turn right onto Ingavi. There are more direct routes to this street, but the view straight along here, cutting through the packed-in buildings of the city to the 6500-metre peak of Ilimani, the second-highest mountain in Bolivia, is worth the detour. Four blocks along Ingavi, the street opens up into Plaza Murillo, a beautiful, leafy square almost out of keeping with much of the rest of La Paz. The surrounding buildings are suitably attractive, too - the Government Palace especially striking. From here, the football stadium, Estadio Hernando Siles is another kilometre or so along Comercio for those interested - just outside it, Tiahuanaco Square is a recreation of the distinctive style of the nearby ruins.

If and when you tire of the city, one day-trip which gets plenty of recommendations from those brave and/or stupid enough to try it is the mountain-bike descent of "the world's most dangerous road" (sounds tempting, huh?). Dropping a vertical kilometre or so on its way from La Paz to the town of Coroico, the track is actually a lot safer than it used to be when bikers shared with everyday traffic. The cars now take an alternative route, but an often narrow trail with a sheer drop on one side is only so safe. In truth, few if any manage to navigate off the edge, but a fair amount of injuries are sustained from falls at speed. If you fancy it (and it is talked up greatly by those who do it), Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking seem to be a well-regarded company.

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