La Paz is famously located at 3660 metres above sea-level and is the highest capital city in the world (that even beats Lhasa, Tibet!). Furthermore, it's setting in a crater makes this one of the most impressive cities in the world to bus into- as you pass out of El Alto the road suddenly drops down from the altiplano and there are stunning views over the whole city as the bus winds down the side of the canyon before finally descending into the chaos and bustle of this fascinating city.
The best way to see La Paz is just to wander around the centre and explore for yourself. The markets are colourful, hectic and give a good slice of this largely indigenous city. In particular el mercado de los brujos, or the witches' market is chaotic and fascinating-you can buy anything from tourist souvenirs, fake DVDs to local charms such as a llama foetus. The market is off Saganaga calle at Linares. The second market which is definitely worth a visit is the local feria up in El Alto (the poor and indigenous part of town, technically a city in its own right). Colectivos going up to El Alto can drop you at the feria which gives a more local slice of life for regular citizens of the town. La Paz is not a particularly unsafe city but normal precautions apply and be careful at the markets for pickpockets.
The Iglesia de San Fransisco and it's plaza form the centre piece of the town and are good for people watching and watching life go on around you. The Museo San Fransisco is an interesting look at the history of the church and through it the early inhabitants of the city and its development. The second museum worth going to is the Museo del Coca which is small but informative on all things coca-both the leaf and local usage and the more dangerous derivative, cocaine.
Just outside the city is the infamous death road, or the world's most dangerous road from North Yungas to Coroico, a 64 kilometre downhill bike ride. Since the opening of the new road, the actual old road sees far less traffic and is significantly less dangerous. However, there are still occasional deaths by backpacker cyclists and it may well pay to go with a reputable company-cheap often means a lack of safety. Aside from the thrill of the bike itself the road also winds through some of the country's most impressive scenery.
A second day trip from La Paz is to Tiwanaku, a pre-Incan archaeological site and UNESCO world heritage site. Beautifully situated with mountains surrounding it, and a mere 90 minute bus ride from the city, this is well worth a day to see impressive style and architecture from an ancient civilisation.
Many people enter La Paz for the first time by bus either from lake Titicaca or destinations further south in Bolivia, and there are two bus stations but the main one that most people will enter the city into is within 15 minutes walking distance of the main San Fransisco square so orientation is relatively easy. There are bus connections from here to destinations across Bolivia as well as Peru, Chile and a few extremely long distance buses to Argentina.
Alternatively some tourists fly directly into El Alto International around 14 kilometres outside the city on the altiplano. Be aware if flying here that the airport is at over 4000 metres above sea level and if not arriving from altitude then it can be a punishing first breath of the city. it isn't ususual to see people white-faced and gasping in the airport. There is medical help and available if it became serious. For altitude sickness normal advice is to take it easy and not drink excessively especially in the first few days. Most people find they get out of breath much easier than normal and maybe a little headachy but are otherwise ok. If symptoms are serious then seek medical attention and descend-remember that altitude sickness can be fatal and has been as low as 3500 metres.
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Advantages: Striking scenery, frenetic, lively pace, wonderful atmosphere Disadvantages: A little too hectic, an unfortunate combination of high altitude and lots of hills.
Puggers 07.05.2009 ·
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Review of La Paz
Jul 8th, 2009
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