I was in the Royal Marines for 11 yrs. I retired to study geophysics and have been a freelance con...
I was in the Royal Marines for 11 yrs. I retired to study geophysics and have been a freelance consultant since 1980. I live with my wife in West Dorset and travel through my work about 6 mths per year. I have worked in over 50 countries worldwide.
you may enquire. Well look at a map of Hungary and the lake sticks out like a racing dog's ……well let's be polite - its very obvious on the map, It is the largest fresh water lake in Central Europe and is about 48 miles long east to west and between 3-9miles north to south.
What on earth made me decide to write about this place I'm not quite sure, but one thing is sure, I passed it 18 yrs ago and I am presently working about 25 miles away and it has always filled me with curiosity - I knew that the Germans had taken over the lake as their own, even back in 1989 and my very recent visit has confirmed my suspicion that it is now almost a province of the fatherland .
I decided to read previous Ciao reviews, the last I could find was 4 yrs ago, and definitely families enjoyed it - in summer it is hot, apart from the odd cyclonic storm to clear the air of bratworst. The lake is clean, tide-less and apparently according to one review,
it is good and warm for swimming from May 'til September. Also, the beaches do not shelve steeply allowing a less confident swimmer to easily stand waist deep. The lake is surrounded by safe promenades and is almost traffic free near the lake, with wide pedestrian boulevards.
Not my scene this, but to be fair, at about 10yrs of age my mother took me on a grotty lakeside holiday in Switzerland for 2 weeks and 2 yrs later for a repeat performance to Lake Maggiore in Italy, neither of which had any beaches; on both occasions I was happy as Larry, swimming from dawn til dusk - its hard to imagine when you start to get old and wrinkly like me that people really enjoy this sort of stuff, but they do, me included as a nipper. So I took a deep breath and yes I admit it - I think a family with kids could have a really fun time here! - for a week!
There, that's better now. I've said it.
Being a German landkreis of course has the advantage that everything at Lake Balaton is in order, accommodation will be in general spotlessly clean, and of good quality. They will be efficient with good food and plenty of good Germanybeer or ya-ya tasty Hungarian Wine (this is the centre of Hungarian wine growing area.) - and of course Wienerschnitzels to die for.( I had one last night and I didn't have to die - it was free as I'm on half board! - and out of this world )
Talking to locals who know, there are rumours that trade is well down in recent years. In the boom years of the early 90s, there wasn't much competition at the prices they were offering at that time - now there are accessible and unusual lakes all over Europe. They are in Estonia, Latvia, Croatia, Turkey, Bulgaria , the list could go on for ages. So, the competition is getting tough. Lake Balaton isn't so crowded as it used to be in the summer months apparently, which I consider a bonus.
For me unfortunately the area has about as much charm as a British railway station waiting room.
Having said that, and I must be fair, the place has so much natural beauty that has been well preserved, including the gorgeous reed beds that surround the lake in most places, that even Ryan Air have recently decided to fly there -yes directly to Lake Balaton, and from two locations in Germany too. The airport is on the north side of the lake and the buses and trains to the south side cost about 12 euros per person.
I just looked on the Internet and took two random dates going out from London Standsted in May 2008 and coming back in June -( deps 0950 arr 1310 local time 1 hr later) It came up with a return Adult Fare of Ł8.99 + tax =Ł34.72 - not bad. Yet I just met a Dutch lady whose husband flew here this week with Whizz? Air for 23 euros total(about Ł18.50) - taxes are much cheaper from Holland - (good old rip-off Britain)
I have said already that this place is not for me but then I thought of something - riding a bicycle round the lake - heaven - beautiful - no hills to climb, a cycle path and loads of places to stay and good German beer to quench a mega-thirst after all that pedal power. Yes and there are many websites with all the cycling info - if Lake Balaton has to be on your list of places to go before you croak, then check them out.
If you decide not to pay 600 Euros per person with flights and bikes extra, at least the website shows you how you could do it yourself independently.(for half the price) great cycle paths, no hills to climb, about 150 miles all the way round very approximately and swarms of places to book in for the night (see the websites)
Anything else to do - I doubt it; the surrounding area is extremely rural and heavily agriculturalised over rolling moderately forested hills. If you have wheels the nearest big town is Kaposvar, about 45 miles to the east. It is an old town but has no mind boggling events of interest. It expanded and became industrialised in the 19c being on the main railway line between Budapest and Zagreb and on down to the Mediterranean Sea. Kaposvar also sports a very large Tescos and a smaller but better quality Spar.
En route, on a good A-road, half way between Lake Balaton and Kaposvar, is the small hydro-spar village of Igal, where I am currently ensconced; it has an outdoor natural hot water thermal swimming pool and is worth taking a chance if you are passing by - closes at 6pm.
I hope you're not getting as bored with this as I am - frankly - yes I'll sum up - if you want something with a bit of a German flavour for a change by a warm lake and which is safe for the kids then what better that to give it a try for a week especially with Ryan Air on the case.
I cannot think of anywhere I would rather less go to for a week - it lacks the flair of Spain, France, Italy and Portugal. It's a matter of horses for courses but for me Hungary is just plain boring.
Pictures of Lake Balaton (Hungary)
Doesn't exactly circle the lake directly but runs on both sides
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Enjoyed the read and the photos, enjoyed the humour too! :)
torr 04.03.2008 13:28
Certainly an interesting destination. Sounds overdeveloped, though, and it's sometimes best to avoid places that the Germans have got to first!
gizmogizmo 29.02.2008 14:16
Superb pictures and a witty and informative review!. Mind you I don't think you'd catch me cycling around the lake - the last time I attempted to cycle I did myself and the bike some very serious damage. x
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