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Outside the Cathedral, all whitewashed Moorish curves against rich blue sky, crowds mill, garlands are passed and the Priest performs his blessings. Those receiving the goodwill are dressed for the occasion, bedecked with flowers, and have been polished to a gleaming finish. Car blessings are a big thing in Copacabana, just east of the Peru-Bolivia border - I'm told they're the chosen alternative of the many drivers who can't afford insurance, opting for the divine form instead. Anywhere else I might assume this is a joke, but in Bolivia it's all too plausible.
This may not be the most famous Copacabana in South America, but much like its better-known namesake in Brazil, it takes in a celebrated, mesmerising view. Where Copacabana-Brazil gazes out over Rio bay, the small town of Copacabana-Bolivia beholds a panorama of Lake Titicaca and the Islands of the Sun and Moon. According to Incan legend, it was here that the Sun was born, emerging from a crack in the rocks of the Sun Island (Isla del Sol), and in my time here at least, it still seemed to have a close relationship with the Lake, rays cutting through the thin air day in and out.
The largest lake in South America, Titicaca is also one of the highest navigable bodies of water in the world, some 3,800 metres above sea level. Situated on the southern shore of such a great expanse of water, one tends to forget the altitude when visiting Copacabana, although a stroll up the hills on the eastern side of town brings the realisation panting back. The town, the base for the majority
of excursions on the Bolivian side of the lake, is accessible by road from either the capitalLa Paz or the nearby Peruvian border, and also has a small domestic airport.
With around 50,000 inhabitants, Copacabana is a small, fairly peaceful town that manages to find a pleasant middle ground between catering well for tourists and retaining a chilled, laid-back atmosphere. There's not much more than a day's sightseeing in the town itself, but it's perfectly easy and enjoyable to spend much longer here soaking up the surroundings and exploring the nearby coast and islands.
Buses tend to drop off at Plaza 2 de Febrero, in front of the Cathedral, and pick up from Plaza Sucre, several blocks closer to the lakefront. Accommodation-wise, most of the Hotels are spread along Calle Jáuregui, catering to a range of budgets but all offering relatively low prices - Hotel Ambassador (on the corner of Jáuregui and Bolivar) has a nice selection of rooms and includes an agreeable breakfast.
Being the only real beach town of a landlocked country, Copacabana isn't short of eating and drinking options; a wide range of restaurants line the streets between the main square and the lake, especially along Calle 6 de Agosto - being a small town, you're able to browse the majority of eateries in a brief wander. Many, bigger and smaller, are very good - the Lake Trout (Trucha) is invariably fantastically fresh and tasty.
Car-blessings aside, Copacabana's Cathedral is an elegant, serene structure set back from the main plaza. The interior of the building is attractive enough, but the Cathedral's principal draw for tourists is the adjoining chapel (off to the left as you face the Cathedral's front), housing a wooden Virgin statue presented to the town in the 16th century.
Just outside and above the town, the hill marked with nine carved crosses, Cerro Calvario, and the climb up to reach it provide some stunning views over Lake Titicaca. A rocky, steepish track leads north off the end of San Antonio (itself off Jáuregui); with the altitude it'll get you puffing, but the panorama over the implausibly vivid blue waters justifies each drop of sweat. A picturesque level stone terrace breaks the climb half-way, but make the extra push to stagger up to the top of the hill and wander past the stone crosses until you reach the rocks at the end of the outcrop. Crowds gather up here before sunset, and it's well worth joining them to see the Lake swallow up the sun in fading fiery tones.
While Bolivians may come to Copacabana for the beach, tourists inevitably come for the Islands. Isla del Sol is much the larger of the two and offers by far the most to see, although a number of tours will also take in Isla del Luna. Any number of agencies in town sell return tickets for the boats heading for Isla del Sol from the beach, charging around £2-4 for the journey; substantially more for guided tours. The latter would be worth the money if you're strongly interested in the history of the ruins on the island, as there are no explanations or displays there - however, much of the attraction of a trip to Isla del Sol is in the astounding scenery; you won't need a guide to point out what for the most part is self-evident.
The journey by boat takes around an hour and a half from Copacabana to the Escalera del Inca (Inca Stairway) at the south-east of Isla del Sol - some people will get off here, but many will stay on for the extra half-hour trip to Cha'llapampa on the north side of the island. With the return boat leaving five hours later from the first stop, there's time for a slow stroll back south with detours and stops for ruins and lunch - the walk itself should only take two to three hours.
The boat will drop you off on the beach at Cha'llapampa, a small cluster of houses where you can stock up on much-needed water for the walk. As the island is predominantly rocky, barren terrain, a trek along its lofty spine involves prolonged exposure to the sun with precious little cover or respite; good amounts of water and sunscreen are a must. You begin the walk on the withered bicep of an arm of land reaching out into the ocean; you need to head through the houses onto the beach on the other side, then turn left and begin the climb onto higher ground, and the "body" of the island. Once you've ascended to the heights, the path splits; left takes you higher still and south, eventually leading to the Inca Staircase you'll leave from. Turn right here to find the Chincana ruins after a short walk - these are also known as El Laberinto (the Labyrinth), but this makes it sounds rather more spectacular than it is; the ruins are little more than a series of inter-connected rooms. Interesting, but nothing too astounding; this is the way of most of the Incan remnants on Isla del Sol, which you'll run into here and there just off the path.
For the purposes of walking the north-south route, the island is chopped up into three zones - it seems different bodies preside over each third of the island, the only apparent effect of this being their ability to charge three times for access to the trails. You'll three times come across an islander sitting by the side of the road who'll sell you a ticket to continue walking; this is mildly irritating, but it's never much you have to pay - normally about ten Bolivianos; less than £1. The walk is along a moderate incline which peaks around the middle of the island before a steady descent towards the Inca Stairway which marks the end of the trail. As you approach this point, you'll find the majority of the Island's restaurants and accommodation. Many of the eateries are simply a couple of tables and chairs in someone's garden, but the food is fresh and filling, and the views down over the bays and inlets are beautiful.
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There are very few drawbacks to visiting Copacabana and the Islands of Lake Titicaca. As with anywhere in this region, altitude is a factor, and the sun can be extremely, sometimes deceptively strong - especially out on the Lake, where the cool breeze can make you oblivious to the slow roasting of your skin. The town seems a pretty safe, laidback place, although care should be taken during times of Fiesta, when the streets and hotels are likely to be jammed.
Transport in and out of Copacabana is for the most part pretty cheap and easy - it's a bit tricky at times to be sure you're on the right bus in the absence of a dedicated terminal; numerous vehicles convene on Plaza Sucre, so ask around to make sure you've got the right one. The office for purchasing tickets is on the north-western corner of Plaza 2 de Febrero, but you may be able to buy at short notice on the buses.
If you're in Bolivia, Lake Titicaca has to be a must on the itinerary; even without the historical and cultural importance of the waters, it's a serene, intensely beautiful place. For those travellers coming from or heading to La Paz, it's certainly a chilled, relaxing alternative to the capital, and after a peaceful, sun-kissed stay, you may feel almost as blessed as the locals' cars heading away from the Cathedral.
Pictures of Lake Titicaca, Copacabana
Car-blessings at Copacabana.
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Advantages: Striking scenery, frenetic, lively pace, wonderful atmosphere Disadvantages: A little too hectic, an unfortunate combination of high altitude and lots of hills.
Puggers 07.05.2009 ·
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